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Thread: Valve stem

  1. #1
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    Valve stem

    I have a1994 R1100RS and the front tire is leaking around the valve stem at the rim, so the quick question what size or type should I use it has typical tubeless type that just pulls through rim with mushroom type head that seals rim, is their something else I should use?
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    If you want the correct metric size with the short stem you can get the part from the dealer for 10 bucks. Or try a FLAPS store but if you are in the USA they seem to only have SAE stems and not metric.

    Part Number Description lb Qty Each
    36 31 7 653 064 VALVE - D=15MM 0.02 1 $9.98
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  3. #3
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Its a type 412 valve stem. BMW raised the price to such a ridiculous amount that I just started buying the 412 stems in a bag of 8 or 10. I change out about 3 sets of tires a year so a bag is used up in a couple of years.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  4. #4
    .453" stem at an auto parts store. Get as short a stem as you can. In english sizing that is the hole size. BMW calls the OEM one a 15mm which is the uncompressed rubber diameter prior to being squeezed into the hole. But on the workbench the stem diameter where they fit the hole measures the same.
    Last edited by PGlaves; 04-14-2019 at 04:53 PM.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
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  5. #5
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    Ufda happens..........

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  6. #6
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Those are the ones that I buy. Last time I looked at the BMW valve stem from the dealer, it had 412 imprinted on the underside.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  7. #7
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
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    Just get one from a BMW dealer.

    Parts for German vehicles are not available at USA FLAPS ... at least not equal quality nor equal specification. When you own German it's time to leave dime stores behind.
    Kent Christensen
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    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S, '84 R80G/S

  8. #8
    Registered User kioolt's Avatar
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    Is FLAPS the name of a store or is it some kind of acronym that I don't know?
    2004 R1150RT 186,800 miles , 1991 K100LT 128,700 miles, 1982 R100RT 106,900 miles
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  9. #9
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kioolt View Post
    Is FLAPS the name of a store or is it some kind of acronym that I don't know?
    Friendly Local Auto Parts Store
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  10. #10
    I have a very strong hunch that the rubber formula was not created in some lab in Germany, nor that the stems sold by BMW were manufactured in Germany. Slovenia maybe? China maybe. India maybe?
    Last edited by PGlaves; 04-15-2019 at 01:46 AM.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
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  11. #11
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    Valve Stem

    Thanks all I had the new tires put on did not tell them to put new valve stems in I should have known better . The old front tire went down real, real slow I had the spray bottle of soapy water out multiple times and never found any leaks, but still I had new tires installed without new valve stems
    After I installed new tires and old rims on bike without checking tire pressure I jumped on bike and took a quick ride to scrub off the new tires , after riding about 80 miles while rounding a curve on a road I travel 50 or 60 times a year I found the bike not handling well facing the choice being leaned over and finishing the turn on the double yellow lines or straightening up and finishing the turn in the oncoming traffic lane after a quick look I straightened up and got out of wrong lane as quickly as I could, I than went to a state park a few miles away to check tire pressure and found the front tire was less than 10 psi after pumping front tire to 38 and bringing rear to 40 I rode home. Next day I had plans to look at possible job which was at least a 314 mile round trip by this time I was smart enough to check tire pressure before I left, rear was about 40, the front around 28 my thought pumping up warm tire from 10 to 38 psi a 10 lb drop reasonable when cold so I pumped it up to 38 rode 360 miles got home and parked bike in garage. I checked tire pressure Saturday and found front less than 10 again so pumped tire up to 40 psi got spray bottle of soapy water sprayed the valve stem first since it was close to the bottom and cap was off and around the base of valve stem bubbles, I remembered when this valve stem was installed it was by a Harley guy in his custom Harley shop thus the question about valve stem size not knowing if Harley size and bmw size might be close but not exact.
    Thanks to you folks I know what I should use, and have again affirmed to my self that I am an idiot sometimes.

  12. #12
    Registered User 6322's Avatar
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    New tire, new stem, always. It's just not worth it and you already have the tire off of the rim. Even with the tire on the rim, it's a fifteen minute job to break it down and replace the stem. Lesson learned. Glad you didn't have a mishap as a result. Take care of it and have a great '19 riding season.
    Gary Phillips - #6322
    Wildland Firefighter, Retired, Riggins, ID
    Heartland Moto Locos BMW Riders
    '77 R100/7 Dirt Hack, '83 R80ST, '85 K100RS w/EML, '00 R1100RS

  13. #13
    Since the OP already has his tires mounted and used the old valve stems there is a simple thing that can be done which may help with the slow leak. Sometimes the valve core (the part removed from the stem) can get a bit of grit, dirt, or other contaminant on it and will not seal properly. Tools needed will be a valve core removal tool, a clean cloth, a source of compressed air, and pressure gauge. Remove the valve core and clean it. (I sometimes spray the valve core with WD40 or silicone spray to remove debris). Reinstall the valve core and fill tire with air to desired pressure.

    In addition to the valve stem, I have found that slow leaks can result from insufficient cleaning of the wheel rim inner surfaces. Old tire "spooge" can accumulate on the inner rim surfaces and the failure to remove this "spooge" can result in an imperfect seal between the tire and rim. Thus, the slow leak. The correction of this problem, like full replacement of the valve stem, generally requires demounting and remounting the tires from the wheel.

    Tools said to aid in valve stem replacement. (I have not used these tools.) -
    https://www.amazon.com/AME-51025-Qui.../dp/B005K8E9FY

    Following is a link to a video that shows how to replace a tubeless valve stem without tire removal or breaking the tire bead. (I have not tried this technique.) -


    Here is the tool that I use to help pull the valve stem through the rim -
    https://www.amazon.com/Supply-Tire-V...s%2C130&sr=8-8

    More advice on valve stem replacement -
    https://www.wikihow.com/Install-Valve-Stems-on-Tires
    Last edited by robsryder; 04-15-2019 at 12:48 PM.

  14. #14
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    Additionally, I'm at the point that I am trusting "older" parts more than "newer" parts. Of course age does play a factor in the equation. Does anyone remember the "valve stem recall"? https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/...0-million-cars
    As pointed out, proper installation is an important factor, especially with aluminum tubeless wheels with some age to them.
    OM
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  15. #15
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    You either have the wrong size valve stem, or the valve stem was not pulled all the way up. Replace the valve stem.

    I prefer high quality metal valve stems. They are least likely to fail or leak. BMW used to use them. The downside to these stems is that they weight more then the rubber ones. If you balance your tires, it doesn't matter. Avoid the hybrid stems of rubber and metal. They have a bad history of breaking and losing air pressure very quickly.

    Also important is the valve cap. I only used metal ones with the rubber seal on the inside. If the needle valve fails, the cap will prevent the tire from losing any air.

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