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Thread: 2003 K1200GT - Rear brake pads change - pin without retainer clip style

  1. #1
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    2003 K1200GT - Rear brake pads change - pin without retainer clip style

    I changed the rear brake pads for the first time. Good experience and all said, but I should have just left them alone. The other pads were good enough just as the dealer told me.

    Well, being a skeptic and given a rainy day, something has to be taken apart.

    It started youtube videos. A couple found LT and and RS version, not exactly my brake but the concept was ok. Printed out the torque numbers 24Nm, I has referenced. I got a wire ready for hanging the caliper from the frame. Soapy water ready to clean the brake dust. I pulled the side panel off, moved the coolant tank to get into the brake reservoir. Pulled some out some brake fluid to avoid overflow compressing the pistons.

    Picture 1 shows first problem. I couldn't get the caliper out because it hit the wheel. Not enough room. I wasn't about to remove the wheel. Quitting was preferred. More rain and thunder outside. An idea hit....get them from the top.

    Picture 2, second problem was removing the plastic cover and for the life of me could not find a retaining clip on those pins. Not front, not back. Nowhere. Quitting again was preferred.

    When all else fails use a hammer. Surprisingly, one of the pins moved out hitting from the back. I saw the U shaped retaining clip and assumed I broke it off inside. Well once I create a problem, more hammering is the solution. The other pin might as well match. That second pin came out. I figured I sheared off both clips.

    A couple other parts went flying, but I had a picture before hand and not too complicated to know where they went.

    Soapy water to wash out the dust. Pistons pushed in with hand pressure. Brake grease probably not needed, but available and used. New pads back in, and pins put back after cleaning. As for the U shaped retaining clips, I guess that is the new style I hadn't seen on videos. The plastic cap seems to also retain the pins from sliding out.

    Final pictures, show that I should have left them alone. Pads had plenty of life.

    This post is just incase you run into the non-clip pins. The plastic cover must keep them in place.

    Live on the wild side.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2003 K1200GT

  2. #2
    3 Red Bricks
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    All Kbikes from 1983 to 2004 use that style rear caliper. The front calipers have changed several times in that time.

    The plastic cover does NOT hold the pins in. The cover comes off by slightly spreading it with a screwdriver.

    If you look at your second photo, you can see the pin retaining ring on the left pin just outside of the caliper. When the pin is driven in, so that ring expands on the otherside of the hole in the caliper, it is retained.

    I do not believe that grease is recommended any where on brakes.




    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

  3. #3
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    It's been a while since I pulled pads, but as I recall those ring clips on the pins serve a purpose in locating and securing the pins. And you're right, the plastic cover serves to help keep the pins in place since there should be no serious side forces exerted on them.
    The bigger issue is what were you thinking? Those old pads look good as new!

  4. #4
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    Yep, brakes were fine as is. I should have left them alone. Rainy day gave me a chance to use a wrench in the garage. I now have a new skill.
    2003 K1200GT

  5. #5
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    Me, too Bro... on '04 K12GT

    Hey, I know it's been a while since you posted your rear-pad-replace adventure, but... I'm about to foray into this job for the first time. Having become unnaturally attached to my Clymer, I've carefully perused its guidance. Just FYI, Clymer says to remove the rear wheel first. That solves your problem #1 at the expense of potentially getting you into deeper water. Live wilder.

    So... how did you get the pads out, after all? Was there sufficient clearance to pull them out the top of the caliper, rather than out the bottom?

    Also FYI, Clymer says:
    • Wear a rather elaborate dust mask to avoid inhaling any brake dust containing asbestos. Yikes!
    • Elaborate procedure for compressing the pistons: tire irons, bolting old pads in to retain the recessed pistons, and so on. Apparently you didn't need to wrestle it nearly so hard. Good on ya.
    • While you're at it, dress the brake disc by sanding it (yup!) w/ 80 or 100 grit paper and a sanding block
    • Various other details to clean things up in there.


    My intention is to go ahead and remove the rear wheel (asking for trouble, heart in mouth...). Secondary agenda: I apparently have a leaking pinion seal. Gave me trouble on a 2000-mile ride around Northern California a week ago. Messy. No rear wheel --> easier to see what exactly is under the boot covering the final drive coupling area. And to clean it up real nice and thorough-like. So I can then see just how long it takes to make a mess again. And then scratch my head about taking it to the dealer for some procedures I just don't think I can do (yeah, I also read the Clymer about replacing the pinion seal and the result was... I is intimidated!)

  6. #6
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    Going from memory. I recall that you CAN get the rear caliper off without removing the wheel. I believe that if you retract the pads into the calipers far enough, you can angle the caliper and slip it off between the rim and the rotor.

  7. #7
    Dances With Sheep GREGFEELER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeffDiCarlo View Post
    Going from memory. I recall that you CAN get the rear caliper off without removing the wheel. I believe that if you retract the pads into the calipers far enough, you can angle the caliper and slip it off between the rim and the rotor.
    I've never been able to remove the rear caliper on my K1200RS without unbolting the rear wheel. There is very little clearance between the inside of the rim and the top of the caliper, and those are 5.5" or 6" rims so the caliper is further trapped inside the wheel depth.

    Unbolting the rear wheel is not a big deal. You will want a good quality socket, a breaker bar, and a good torque wrench as the torque spec is something around 75 foot lbs. I believe all you need to do is remove the wheel bolts and it can lean far enough to the left to create enough clearance to remove the caliper - but don't hold me to that - it's been a while since I've changed rear brake pads.

    Since the bike has a strong forward bias when on the center stand you will already have clearance under the rear wheel. If you want to be extra cautious while the wheel is loose, or if you actually have to remove it from the bike, then you should find something to place under the bottom of the rear drive to prevent pushing down on the back of the bike and tipping it backward. I always do this as it's just too much of a habit to place my hand on the back of a bike when moving around. You can also use a tie down strap looped around the center stand and the front rim to pull the center stand forward. This will prevent any chance the bike could be pushed backward and roll off the center stand.

    Hope this helps!
    Greg Feeler
    Ambassador & amateur K-Bike collector, it seems
    1972 R75/5, 1990 K75, 1990 K1, 1992 K75S, 2003 K1200RS

  8. #8
    Mehrten
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    Rear Wheel Torque Values

    Removing the rear wheel is a simple and easy task.

    With the bike on it's center stand it will sit on the front wheel making the removal of the rear wheel a five bolt job.

    They should be torqued on at 105 NM per the OEM Rep Rom.

    Torque them back on in a crisscross pattern. Do a round at 40 nm then finish off with 105 nm.

    40 nm is 29.50 ft lbs and 105 nm is 77.44 ft lbs.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by mehrten View Post
    Removing the rear wheel is a simple and easy task.With the bike on it's center stand it will sit on the front wheel making the removal of the rear wheel a five bolt job.They should be torqued on at 105 NM per the OEM Rep Rom. Torque them back on in a crisscross pattern. Do a round at 40 nm then finish off with 105 nm.40 nm is 29.50 ft lbs and 105 nm is 77.44 ft lbs.
    Put the transmission in first gear for loosening/torquing the bolts.

    Frank
    '17 R1200RS, '03 R1100S BCR#6/200, '85 K100/1100RS, '16 R1200RS (gone) '11 R1200RT (gone) '05 R1200ST (gone) '99 R1100S (gone) '96 Ducati 900SS/SP (gone) '92 K100RS (gone) 500,000+ BMW miles

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by 51797 View Post
    Put the transmission in first gear for loosening/torquing the bolts.

    Frank
    Always pull rearward or down when loosening or tightening wheel bolts so as to have no risk of pulling the bike forward off the centerstand.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

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