2003 K1200GT - any tips on fuel filter change?

jrmull said:

Any suggestions on the dead fly in the air intake?

Click to expand...

I don't know if it's a problem.
Sometimes it's better to pretend it never happened

Between my K1200RS and my wife's K1200RS I changed quite a few air filters, and I'm guessing one or two bugs dropped down into the airbox when changing those filters.

Fly, what fly??

If you haven’t put the tank back in place, it’s a small matter to pop the filter cover, pull the filter, and stick a vacuum cleaner nozzle in there. I normally do that as part of my filter replacement routine anyway. And if you don’t get him out I wouldn’t be too worried about it; I don’t think flies are particularly abrasive.

Best,
DG

Thank you for the dead fly comments. Midwest got socked with winter storm so I haven't finished closing up the tank. I have a little vacuum to give it an attempt.

I did find smaller 3/8 clamps at Menards that are stainless steel. When reduced to size, it looks pretty bad visually. See picture. I won't see it in the tank but on the outside connections, it looks bad. The excess tail gets long too. I got some crimp clamps the right size at the auto store and will use them. Keep extras on hand for another trip under the tank.

I can see why the dealer is using crimping types. More compact, more professional looking.

jrmull said:

Thank you for the dead fly comments. Midwest got socked with winter storm so I haven't finished closing up the tank. I have a little vacuum to give it an attempt.

I did find smaller 3/8 clamps at Menards that are stainless steel. When reduced to size, it looks pretty bad visually. See picture. I won't see it in the tank but on the outside connections, it looks bad. The excess tail gets long too. I got some crimp clamps the right size at the auto store and will use them. Keep extras on hand for another trip under the tank.

I can see why the dealer is using crimping types. More compact, more professional looking.

Click to expand...

You don’t want that worm-drive type of clamp—it will damage the hose by the time it’s clamped tight enough to withstand fuel pressure. You want the smooth band-style clamps—either screw-type or crimp-on (Oetiker) clamps. If you’re not having any luck sourcing them at your dealer you could try a NAPA store, Amazon, or McMaster-Carr.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Fuel+injection+hose+clamps&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

https://www.mcmaster.com/hose-clamps

Best,
DG

GTRider said:

You don’t want that worm-drive type of clamp—it will damage the hose by the time it’s clamped tight enough to withstand fuel pressure.
DG

Click to expand...

I think he's talking about the small vent or drain hoses??
In his picture he has the correct type of clamp on the fuel lines.

It lives. Filled a half gallon and pump activated. Started up fine.

I ended up using the screw band on the venting tubes. The small tube are non pressured and I didn't mash them tight. The main filter tubes were replaced and I used Max screw type that have a solid band. I was happy with that and future removal easy. I was more comfortable using screwdriver pressure to tighten that a crimping tool. For the vent tubes, it was tight using the Menard threaded band. It was stainless steel and those venting tubes need to be pull to work on the filter. That was my approach. I appreciate the warnings DG is advising. Only part not replaced was the screen for $70. I will send that one back to the store.

On the vent tube outside the tank, they also have to be removed frequently to pull the tank. I couldn't get my crimping tool in there. The screw type worked for minimal pressure on the tubes. One worry is the band extends over the top of the fuel line. I need to keep it from rubbing. I will figure out something or go back to crimping. I have a box of crimping clamps but thanks for the offer on sourcing parts.

I dug out from another shed the shop vac. Improvised using my oil fuel to get deep into the air box. No dead fly found. Maybe my vacuum process turned it to dust. Well worth the try. I was quite proud of my invention.

Somewhere, I misplaced that tank washer and rubber grommet that Lee was talking about. %@@$%% That wasted a couple hours. I found the washer but missing the thin rubber grommet. I kept putting on the tank, losing the big rubber insert. Tank back off, search, find, repeat. Grommet pops out, tank back off, search, find, repeat. New swear words invented. I see someone prior used rubber cement to hold the center grommet in place. I tried tape. Eventually it worked less a thin rubber grommet on the outside bolt.

Oh and I scratch the tank top.

Still have some clean up to do. Replace the quick release Orings, Test ride to look for leaks or panel warning lights. Order a couple tank grommets.

Thanks for all the assistance. John

jrmull said:

On the vent tube outside the tank, they also have to be removed frequently to pull the tank. I couldn't get my crimping tool in there. The screw type worked for minimal pressure on the tubes. One worry is the band extends over the top of the fuel line. I need to keep it from rubbing. I will figure out something or go back to crimping.

Click to expand...

You can get by without a clamp on those two vent lines outside the tank.
The hose has a snug fit on the metal tube and their's plenty of overlap.

Ugh. Bike won't start. 2003 K1200GT 26k miles

I finished changing the fuel and air filter this week. Replaced the quick disconnect ORings. I had it running several times this week checking leaks, etc and it was running with out panels naked.

I put the panels back on and it started and idled fine for about 2-3 mins. Then sputtered and shut off. I was going to let it warm up for awhile but it didn't get that far. I figured low/out of fuel since I had just a small amount in and the yellow low fuel light was on anyway.

I filled the tank to 1/4 on the gas gauge. About 2 gallons premium. It won't start. I smell some fuel out the exhaust. Low fuel light is off now with all the gas in the tank.

Waited another couple hours. Still won't start. I hear the fuel pressurize and no warning lights. Just cranks. I guess I will try the battery disconnect tomorrow is if that resets the computer.

Worst case, find that diagnostic tool.

It is on the center stand. Side stand it up, Kill switch ready, Neutral gear. Clutch in on start. Good battery power and crank speed. I am thinking running out of fuel, wacked the computer codes. Has it in some shutoff mode. Beat me.

When you turn on the switch do you hear the fuel pump energize briefly? And of you do, please repeat the test only with the fuel cap open and your ear down there listening for fuel squirting/splashing inside the tank. Please report back...

Best,
DG

jrmull said:

I hear the fuel pressurize and no warning lights. Just cranks.

Click to expand...

Sounds like the two electrical connectors are in place.

Non starting - 2003 K1200GT after air and fuel change. Pictures show (1) no warning lights after crank, just abs, neutral, gen. (2) kickstand up, (3) kill switch set to RUN. (4) Gas tank 1/3 full , Gear in 0 Neutral. Oil and Temp lights, ABS break flashing, Neutral. Battery 12.1vt. The WARNING light next to the Green Neutral is not on during crank. The temp and Oil lights go out after diagnostics. I have a video of the process but not sure if it can be posted. MotoBat fresh and charged.

So, on first start, I turn on key and hear the diagnostics and the fuel pump pressurize, then stops to wait. Turn key, cranks. No sputter. After a second try same on Key, only 3 lights are lit. The Neutral, ABS, GEN. No warning light. No warning light ever except at diagnostics startup. I didn't smell and fuel leaks or fuel smell in exhaust pipe.

Second attempt, opened tank, I don't hear a swirling sound. No rushing or possible leaking squirting sound. Tubes in tank are new, tightened with screw fasteners. I think they were pretty solid. I can hear the brakes both front and back activating when touched. Not that this part matters.

I have a GS-911 tool on order due in Friday. I have not done the battery disconnects yet but thought I would wait to see the codes from GS911, if any. Education for me and not urgent to get to the hospital or work, etc. A science experiment. The GS-911 tools are expensive at $399 for rookie and $800 for professional. I got the rookie one. I expected to get a Warning light if this bike hit a Code. Guess not.

It is possible I had the two small vacuum hoses reversed when I removed and altered screw clamps. I just slid them off and thought I put them back. I forget where they go off to. The Charcoal can and maybe a drain to ground. I didn't have them marked before I took them off to trim the screw clamp cleaner. Also, I might have the Quick disconnects not seated properly and only a small amount of fuel in the line. Yesterday, I did start the bike after closing the panels and it ran for 2-3 mins in idle without me rev'ing it. I walked away and played with the dog. The bike sputtered like my lawn mower does without fuel, then shut off. Been dead ever since. My guess is the BMW computer got a fault code and shut down all future use. Kind of dumb to do that but I see GS911 video's of same problem. I would hate to be on the road and run out of fuel.

The only positive outcome, is that I have 3 extra panel screws on my bench. I guess I get to find out where they go.

Thanks for the advice.

Unplug the disconnects and connect them again.
You will see the flat tab spring back into place and you will hear a faint click if they seat properly.
With the preformed fuel lines it's difficult to get the connections backwards.

Earlier picture from friends show the front skinny tube goes to the Can and the back one is drain of water from cap. I might have flipped those but will check. I will reseat the quick connects, those I didn't flip for sure. Just odd that the bike ran for 2-3mins before shutting down. I guess time to stop crabbing and strip it back down.

jrmull said:

I guess time to stop crabbing and strip it back down.

Click to expand...

You may be able to reach through the opening of the fairing to check the QDs.

I got impatient and went back at it.

I tried the battery disconnect. Let it sit for 10 mins. Reconnected the power back and forth a couple times. Power back on, but it did the same. Crank, no start. Lights same. Experiment failed for resetting based on battery disconnects. All other functions such as turn signals, windshield up/down, horn, etc doing something normal.

Pulled the panels. Found nothing special. Connection near the QD looked solid. I had the smaller tubes to Canister and drain correct to prior picture. Not that. I pulled the quick disconnects and gas dribbled out of both. Nothing special. Reconnected them with solid clicks. Cranking didn't do anything. But no leaks either.

Other connectors to tank look ok, one on the left front, solid. Same status, turn key on, I hear the tank during a couple seconds, then stops. I assume that is the pump pressurizing. Gas gauge slowly rises to 1/3 full.

I was expecting a powerful smell of flooded gas, but there wasn't any. Small gas scent in the exhaust pipe.

Next step for me is to wait for the GS-911 diagnostic tool. Spark and gas is all I need. It is one of those not working.

You can quickly verify connections on the small hoses now that the plastic is off. Open the gas tank, put a finger over the water drain hole in the filler neck, then blow into the drain hose that exits down by the swingarm. If air is flowing freely between those two points your connection is correct.

Have you verified you’re getting spark? As in pulling a plug wire, attaching it to a FIRMLY GROUNDED new sparkplug then cranking the engine? Doing such a check without making sure the plug is grounded can damage the ignition system. You can also do a quick check by just clamping an induction timing light around a plug wire and cranking. I’m just wondering about the status on your Hall effect pickup.

Best,
DG

I think it's related to the work done this last week.
It did start and run for a few minutes.

It's like one of the fuel lines came loose in the tank, but looking at the pictures the clamps looked good on the fuel filter and pump.

If it was me I would concentrate on every thing I touched this last week.

Lee said:

I think it's related to the work done this last week.
It did start and run for a few minutes.

It's like one of the fuel lines came loose in the tank, but looking at the pictures the clamps looked good on the fuel filter and pump.

If it was me I would concentrate on every thing I touched this last week.

Click to expand...

I agree that the best place to start looking is the last work done, but a few simple checks can eliminate things like a sticky sidestand switch, etc. before draining and opening the tank again. If the QDs are not fully seated the pressure usually blows the hose off the filter immediately on an attempted start. If a filter splits—and I have seen the filters let go on the crimp—the bike might run as it did, but subsequently fail to start because it can’t build adequate fuel pressure. But that can usually be discovered by listening at an open filler neck, unless the tank is quite full. Personally, I’d want to know I have spark—a good Hall unit and no stuck or failed sidestand or cutoff switches—before jumping back into the tank. And even then, before opening the tank I’d be draining it down to or below filter level and have another listen. But that’s just the lazy in me coming out, I guess.

Best,
DG

During the pump pressure startup, does it stop after it reaches a certain pressure? Mine stops after a few seconds as I normally hear. Hum for 2-3 sec, then quiet.

If that is the case, then I have reached full pressure in the tank tubes. If a loose tube, it would keep on running wouldn't it with a swish splash, Yes/No?

I will drain the tank down to where the low fuel light turns on to see the effect. Good to know what happens with a weak QD and the line blowing. Nothing like that is happening. No leaks outside the tank.

I have not checked the spark. Like a lawn mower, I can ground a plug to see if it sparks. Worth a look. I haven't heard the term Hall effect. My assumption is with a code, the spark would be turned off with the disabled computer command. No spark could mean the computer code. A spark, though, would plant it back on the recent fuel filter change..

Here is the video on that subject. Some term called "fuse activated on pump" .

Video of the GS-911 resetting fault code.

http://www.beemershop.com/Merchant5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=GS-911

Other thought, I didn't check fuses but will tomorrow.

Other thought is the BMW fuel filter ($42) is clogged. Bad filter from BMW? The pictures shows the correct direction of the flow. I can put the old one back on.

Friday is the GS-911 delivery.

jrmull said:

During the pump pressure startup, does it stop after it reaches a certain pressure? Mine stops after a few seconds as I normally hear. Hum for 2-3 sec, then quiet.

If that is the case, then I have reached full pressure in the tank tubes. If a loose tube, it would keep on running wouldn't it with a swish splash, Yes/No?

I will drain the tank down to where the low fuel light turns on to see the effect. Good to know what happens with a weak QD and the line blowing. Nothing like that is happening. No leaks outside the tank.

I have not checked the spark. Like a lawn mower, I can ground a plug to see if it sparks. Worth a look. I haven't heard the term Hall effect. My assumption is with a code, the spark would be turned off with the disabled computer command. No spark could mean the computer code. A spark, though, would plant it back on the recent fuel filter change..

Here is the video on that subject. Some term called "fuse activated on pump" .

Video of the GS-911 resetting fault code.

http://www.beemershop.com/Merchant5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=GS-911

Other thought, I didn't check fuses but will tomorrow.

Other thought is the BMW fuel filter ($42) is clogged. Bad filter from BMW? The pictures shows the correct direction of the flow. I can put the old one back on.

Friday is the GS-911 delivery.

Click to expand...

Just to clarify—when we talk about a hose blowing off due to QDs not being properly seated, that happens inside the tank, generally at one of the filter connections. And the initial run of the pump, to pressurize the system for starting, is controlled by the ECU. I’m not sure it reads fuel pressure as a stop signal but strongly suspect it is just a timing function in the ECU. And yes, a plugged filter can bring things to a halt as well.

I generally replace the filter whenever I have to pull a pump&filter out of the tank, just because it is a PITA to get to. A “while I’m in there” thing. Filters are available from Beemer Boneyard at a much more reasonable cost, especially if you take advantage of the discount code found in nearly every issue of the BMW Owner’s News.

Good luck, keep us posted!
DG