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2003 K1200GT - any tips on fuel filter change?

jrmull

New member
Hi,

Any tips changing the fuel filter on a 2003 K1200GT? Need to get all my parts and tools gathered.

I want to pull the tank and remove the entire fuel unit from the bottom/side. Easier to inspect and change fuel lines and screen, is my thought. Somehow rinse out the tank of there is any dirt or silt inside. Should be an experience.

What parts are required other than the filter. Big enclosure gasket? Several new clamps, fuel tubing, pre filter sock? Napa is $8 and BMW is $43 for the filter. Seems rather high price for a filter.

Another video shows going thru the top and swap out the fuel filter using small hands. Sounds nice for second time I do this chore. First time, I want to see the screen and clean out tanks. No clue what the condition is today.

I see the Air filter 13711464916 is also rather hight priced $43. I will look for a generic one for the Air filter.

Pirates Lair, Boneyardbmw, and MaxBMWmotorcycles are my usual hunting grounds, other than Napa.

Thanks for tips.

Fuel filter 16142325859
Air filter 13711464916
 
With the age of the bike it's probably a good idea to replace the gasket and the fuel lines inside the take.
When I changed the fuel filter I did not use the OEM type hose clamps but did use fuel injection clamps.
Clamp.jpg

On the fuel and air filters I always felt better using OEM filters.
You can buy a Mann fuel filter and Mahle air filter from Beemerboneyard.
Don't forget your MOA 10% discount.
$17.95 before discount for the fuel filter.
https://www.beemerboneyard.com/16142325859.html

$31.95 before discount for the air filter.
https://www.beemerboneyard.com/k12rsltmannaf.html

I used a Channellock wrench on the big ring.
You won't be able to torque this way but I never had a problem.
Fuel pump and filter.jpg
 
2003 k1200gt

Lee, thanks for the pictures and tips. I ordered the following from Max. Being newbie, I didn't get a discount but I did order more parts than I probably need and returning those not used.

Fuel filter change project to me is a $5 part and it sits in the open next to the petcock. Why a 4 inch hose1 is $32, then hose2 $49 is interesting. The pre-screen for $70 might be needed from the videos show it falling apart on old K bikes. Gasket for $42 and finally the filter at $41. All of these items are amazingly expensive.

My bike has had only BMW service the past 16 years best guess. Even with fuel recalls, I am curious the condition I will find inside. There was a full service, sales prep and upgrade done in 2016. Quick disconnects, new fuel lines, air filter, tires, windshield, spark plugs. But no fuel filter or related fuel filter parts on the invoices.

Your picture of the channel locks, I have one large enough. I only got 4 clamps and it looks from the picture the whole unit is attached by two rubber tubes inside the tank.


Part# |Description
1/16142305760 FUEL HOSE $32.33
1/16142325859 FUEL FILTER $41.86
1/16142325808 HOSE $49.15
1/16142305974 STRAINER $70.88
1/16142347285 GASKET - D=99MM $42.48
1/13711464916 AIR FILTER ELEMENT $43.35
4/13311460928 HOSE CLAMP (4) $15.40
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SubTotal: $295.45



Ok, I am ready to tackle this. Open her up and try not to break something unrelated. Thanks for the pictures.
 
The little baggie is seal grease.
I used that on the big round rubber seal so everything did not spin as I tightened the large plastic ring.
 
Hi Lee. Regarding your picture, where do those hoses coming out of the tank go off to? If they need replacing, I guess someone goes through the gas cap to reach in there. Cross that bridge when or if I get there. Last question, what is in the plastic sack, O ring grease?

Regards John
 
The short straight hose can be replaced with correctly-sized submersible-grade fuel injection hose from NAPA or other FLAPS, much less $$ than the BMW line. On the curved hose you have two options; the spendy BMW one or the more reasonably priced alternative from Beemer Boneyard. (Yet another reason to join MOA, as members get a discount at the Boneyard). Do put some Vaseline or other lubricant on the quick-disconnect o-rings, and make sure they solidly and audibly “click” when reassembled. If you don’t, you can have a fuel blockage at the QD and fuel pump pressure will blow loose your nice new filter connections.

Best,
DG
 
Hi Lee. Regarding your picture, where do those hoses coming out of the tank go off to?

One is the drain for the little hole at the gas cap.

I think the other one is a overflow inside the tank.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

When I changed the fuel filter I always marked those hoses to make sure I did not get them reversed.
 
One is the drain for the little hole at the gas cap.
I think the other one is a overflow inside the tank.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

When I changed the fuel filter I always marked those hoses to make sure I did not get them reversed.


Lee, minor addition / correction to your post above.
- one is the drain hole at gas cap (correct above)
- the 2nd vent hose is for the fuel tank vent located on top - part of hidden black plastic oval part.

The 2nd one is not so much for an overflow, but will become one if you overfill and/or park into sun after.

The tank vent hose is critical to identify properly if your K1200RS/LT still has the charcoal canister - this is where it goes. The other hose (from gas cap drain hole) goes toward the ground along frame / transmission.

Not a big deal if you mix them up at exit of pump OR inside, AS-LONG-AS you identify on final install BEFORE plugging into charcoal-canister. Just blow some air at hole on top of gas-cap and put your hand down to either hose end - it will be clear which is which. For anyl K1200RS/LT sold outside of USA market, both hoses go toward the ground (no charcoal-canister outside of USA during this k1200 era 1997-2005).

See 2 attached picture to better understand - an image is worth a 1000 words in this case...
 

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Thank you for the close up pictures and explanations on the extra hoses.

Good tip on marking the tubes with matching connection point. That will help keep things straight.

From my pictures, any suggestions so far? Looks like I found the tank and where the fuel pump is located. Some idiot filled the tank before working on this project.

Picture close up of my quick release hoses. Hoses seem firm and new looking. I have a 2016 BMW repair invoice showing new quick releases and some hoses changed. I am guess those are the age. My custom fused wiring for the USB ports is the black ribbed. There is a hose with a split in at the end. Drain plug I guess.

Parts on order.

In the meantime, is there a good detailing product to blacken up the interior plastic parts. I am inside and might as well give it a good factory look. Armor all tire spray is my first thought. Soap and water first. Probably a bad idea if it attacks the rubber hoses.

The gas opening is pitted some corrosion on it. I suppose there is no way to clean this up either. Any tips welcome.
 

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. I have a 2016 BMW repair invoice showing new quick releases and some hoses changed. .

It looks like they only replaced the male end.
Probably not a problem as it's the male end that usually cracks on the RS/GT.
 
In the meantime, is there a good detailing product to blacken up the interior plastic parts. .

Back to Black is a good product but that's getting carried away even for me :)
When I had the tupperware off I would wipe everything down with a damp rag with a little Simple Green on it.

5d26fe6e-8984-448c-bdd2-9e8e6bc847e3_1.91c09420a7b74190ac91ada2be8c06fc.jpeg
 
There's a spacer or washer on the back side you need to be careful not to drop when you lift the tank.
You do not need to remove the front tank mounts to lift the tank.

attachment.jpg
 
Progress. Got the parts from Max after a week or so and dug in. A bit of a challenge.

Thanks for the suggestion on the inner washer that will disappear. I caught it just in time.

Quick release was not much fun. The extra drain hoses also a pain next the quick release connectors. I don't have replacement clamps for those but off to the auto parts store. Reusing them didn't look like a good idea.

See picture, but the metal cap has corrosion on the lip. Or some sealant. First Question...how do I clean that up? I have a new gasket to use. The old gasket has the same white gunk on it. I prefer to use the new gasket.

See pictures, the old hoses are being replaced. The top one was fair to ok useable. The bottom one seemed ok but puffed. I am replacing them both and using Max's new 13mm clamps. Only got 4 of them and could have used 4 size 10 for the drain smaller hoses.

I tried to reuse the drain clamps but I couldn't rebend or reuse them. It was a wreck.

I got from Boneyard or someplace other 13mm clamps, but they were not as shiny as the Max ones. I wasn't certain the non-shiny ones would be ok inside the tank. See picture. Would they have been ok? Only a $4 savings.

Regarding the air filter. Another mishap. A dried fly went down the back side. Maybe I can get a vacuum to suck it out. Or hope nothing becomes of it. Suggestions?

I didn't replace the screen. It looked ok and didn't feel luck to mess with it. $70 for the screen mess too.
 

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Another question before I button this up. The tank's front bolts that you just loosen were beyond stiff. A lot of leverage needed to loosen them and once moving groaned like an old rusty bolt.

What to do? WD40 on it, motor oil, Aluminum anti seize are on my list. The other bolts on the back side were smooth and little problem. Thanks for comments.
 
Another question before I button this up. The tank's front bolts that you just loosen were beyond stiff. A lot of leverage needed to loosen them and once moving groaned like an old rusty bolt.

.

I never had to loosen them. I would lift the back of the tank and slide the tank off of the front mounts.
Is this the mount you're talking about.

left front tank mount.jpg
 
Quick release was not much fun. .

Did you replace the quick disconnects? If not, and you need new Viton orings PM me and I'll mail you a few.

If you replaced the QDs, save one of the old ones.
It makes for an easy fast way to drain the tank.

IMG_0238.jpg


IMG_0095.jpg
 
Forgot to mention the drain hose clamps. The type of clamp for the drain hoses is not a big deal because they are not under pressure.
 
Yes, those are the bolts on the front of the tank which are extremely hard to loosen. I have them loose now but not smoothly turning. They are binding. On the other notes of draining the gas, that was a mess. I have it empty now for work.

Any suggestions on the dead fly in the air intake?

I did pick up some one-time small clamps at the auto store. Ready to button this up.

thanks
 
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