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Thread: 2003 K1200GT brake weld question or designed this way

  1. #1
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    2003 K1200GT brake weld question or designed this way

    My rear brake pedal was bent inward from prior owner. When purchased it was functional but I wanted to replace it when my wallet got full.

    The new one from BMW has a strange weld. Looks like the back side would allow it to break away of hit on the front. Either that or a bad weld not going all the way around.

    For a $224 part, if not on purpose, how did it get past the BMW painter the quality control guy, etc? I guess I know the answer if it was HD products.

    This is painted aluminum. 35212335190 BRAKE PEDAL msrp 224.16

    I am sure the BMW dealer will take it back and replace it. Be sort of silly to get a similar one back with the break away weld.

    Thanks for suggestions.
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  2. #2
    SURVIVOR akbeemer's Avatar
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    I think it is okay. It is not welded on the rear because it is unnecessary. I would have tried any which way I could to bend the old pedal before I bought a new one at the price they charge for that piece.
    Kevin
    The Outpost, Silver City, Montana
    Team Pterodactyl
    2018 Ural Gear Up, 2017 R1200GSA

  3. #3
    I once bought a K75 for $1500 less than book (from a dealership) because they thought it had a bad transmission. It kept jumping out of gear because the goof who traded it in that same day said it kept jumping out of gear. It did because the bent shift lever kept him from fully shifting the thing.

    He traded it in and I bought it within an hour. It never went in the shop. Since the dealer knew I might like it and had a spare tranny I got it at the trade in price. I noticed the bent lever. We got a lever out of the used aluminum parts bin. I did everything I could to make it jump out of gear and it didn't.

    I still have that bike.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
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  4. #4
    Debbie's Servant Lee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrmull View Post
    My rear brake pedal was bent inward from prior owner. When purchased it was functional but I wanted to replace it when my wallet got full.

    The new one from BMW has a strange weld. Looks like the back side would allow it to break away of hit on the front. Either that or a bad weld not going all the way around.
    You can see a gap on the brake lever that was on my 03 K1200RS.

    IMG_0177.JPG
    Lee
    2016 R1200RS
    MOA # 30878
    Past BMW Bikes: 2011 K1300S, 2003 K1200RS, 1991 K75S, 1987 K75T, 1984 R100RT

  5. #5
    Debbie's Servant Lee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akbeemer View Post
    I would have tried any which way I could to bend the old pedal before I bought a new one at the price they charge for that piece.
    They're easy to bend back.
    All I had to do to this one was put it in a vise and squeeze.

    IMG_0174.JPG

    IMG_0175.JPG
    Lee
    2016 R1200RS
    MOA # 30878
    Past BMW Bikes: 2011 K1300S, 2003 K1200RS, 1991 K75S, 1987 K75T, 1984 R100RT

  6. #6
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    I just looked at the lever on my 03 K12RS. It's got a more prominent gap than the one on your new part.
    It appears the manufacturing process calls for the weld to run top to bottom at the joint, but just on the outside of the lever. BMW probably figures the inside (engine side) of the lever is rarely if ever seen, and the one sided weld is strong enough to do the job.

    Besides, with those super power brakes we've got, how hard is the lever ever pushed?

  7. #7
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    2003 k1200gt

    Thank you for the comments.

    My theory was if the pedal got hit straight at the front such as a curb, it would break at the seam. Make it useless on the road without a vise grip tool to get home. Not a big deal, I guess. Good to know other guys have a similar weld. Thank you for the added pictures. I didn't want to complain to the dealer for something that is normal.

    Now that I have a replacement in hand, I will take off the old, straighten it and see if I make it worse cracking it along the bend area. I didn't want to fool with this and have the machine down for weeks last Fall. Too much fun riding and learning to keep it upright.

    I can always send back the new one and invest the money in another replacement part.

    Question, the specs say the bolt is using Loctite (Micro-encapsulated). Torque to be 21Nm. Do I use a blow torch to get this bolt off? I don't think my Bic lighter is going to get it hot enough to remove. Hate to strip something. I do have a paint heat gun. 500 degrees is the red Loctite melt point it says. I can go find a plumber's mini torch if needed.

    I have both red and blue Loctite once removed. Which one do you recommend? I would chose Blue absent of advise. No new bolt so I plan to reuse the bolt. Looks like the shaft has a bushing insert with grease pockets. My 90w gear oil ok or common wheel grease. Your advise welcome. Too cold out to do this 20 min task. Maybe a day or two.

    Regards
    2003 K1200GT

  8. #8
    Registered User GTRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrmull View Post
    Question, the specs say the bolt is using Loctite (Micro-encapsulated). Torque to be 21Nm. Do I use a blow torch to get this bolt off? I don't think my Bic lighter is going to get it hot enough to remove. Hate to strip something. I do have a paint heat gun. 500 degrees is the red Loctite melt point it says. I can go find a plumber's mini torch if needed.

    I have both red and blue Loctite once removed. Which one do you recommend? I would chose Blue absent of advise. No new bolt so I plan to reuse the bolt. Looks like the shaft has a bushing insert with grease pockets. My 90w gear oil ok or common wheel grease. Your advise welcome. Too cold out to do this 20 min task. Maybe a day or two.

    Regards
    Use the heat gun or micro-torch, not the regular torch as it will destroy nearby finishes. You wont need to warm it as much as you think.

    BMW calls for replacing just about any bolt that was installed with their micro-encapsulated locking compound. Those bolts arrive at the plant ready to spin in, no futzing around applying threadlocker on the line. The call to always replace such fasteners in moderate torque, non-stretch applications, instead of just specifying cleaning and re-applying appropriate threadlocker, is in my opinion a CYA move and a revenue-generator given the prices BMW charges for them. So in such cases I normally do a careful cleaning of threads on both bolt and receptacle, apply loctite primer and loctite, and re-use them. In this case, Id use blue loctite.

    But, its a brake component and as such your life may depend upon itso make your choice as you see fit.

    Best,
    DG
    DGerber
    1983 R80ST 1984 R80 G/S PD 1993 R100GS 2004 K1200GT w/Hannigan S/C 2010 K1300GT
    BMWMOA#52184, AMA#271542, IBA#138

  9. #9
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    2003 K1200GT brake pedal install - stripped out

    Brake bolt hole stripped out. Ugh. This was more challenging that I expected.

    Before removing the old pedal, I heated up the bolt with a heat gun to break the Red Loctite Micro-encapsulated. Gets really hot. I put mild pressure on the T40 bolt M8x40mm and it unscrewed very nicely. Red Loctit color on the bolt. Great, all good.

    I transferred the brake stop bolt, spring, cleaned and oiled the center shaft. The M8x40mm bolt cleaned up nicely. I scratched the snot out of the footpeg plate struggling with the spring. See picture. Blue Loctite on main bolt. Reassembled M8x40 bolt but never tighten with my hand. No wrench yet, no 21Nm torque yet. Ugh. See pictures.

    Threads inside deteriorated on the Footpeg plate and they broke loose. See picture of spiral that came out. It threads nicely right up to the spot where it suppose to tighten down but spins, pulls out a smig. Too loose to use the brake pedal. See picture of 1mm gap on bolt head to pedal. So what happened? 2003 K1200GT, 16 year old metal? Or maybe, I wasnt the first guy to work on trying to replace the pedal. I guess I should have left it alone and wait for it to become a problem.

    Choices:

    Needs a new right foot peg plate $227 that has the threaded hole. Right now I am a little peeved at BMW. What more Red Loctite am I going to find?

    Or drill out and rethread plate hole and get a larger bolt. Nope, already goes through the a predefined pedal center hole. Maybe there there is a dual sized bolt like my lawn mower wheels.

    Or use a longer bolt. Get a M8x55 bolt with an M8 nut on the end. 15mm longer than existing 40mm. Thread it through the base plate and put a nut on the back side. There is enough room on the back side.

    Previously I was worried about using a new bolt that is classified as Micro-encapsulated. Bolt was fine and strong. The plate hole gave way.


    I am voting for the longer bolt.
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    2003 K1200GT

  10. #10
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    Somebody recorded a fix-a-thread kit. Drill out the hole larger and insert a M8 spiral insert. I guess that will work, if I don't find a M8x55 bolt that works. Funny that this guy had a similar loose bolt on the rear brake pedal.
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    2003 K1200GT

  11. #11
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    Problem solved. Got a M10 x50mm bolt with locking nut at Lowes. $2.89. Couldn't fit the nut on the back as hoped but the longer bolt got workable threads.

    Not sure why in the specs say the original is M8x40mm but when I got to the store, the M10 1.50 thread count was the correct size. Maybe something German. I had to grind down the 50mm to about 46mm to get the max thread contact. Blue Loctite and it is better than original I guess. Hex nut instead of a T40 head.

    Worst case, I buy a new foot plate and bolt. Regards.
    2003 K1200GT

  12. #12
    3 Red Bricks
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    Worst case, put a helicoil in it and be done for only $30.

    https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546...0+helicoil+kit



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