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1200RTW vs 1200RT

brhartw

New member
Its time to move up from my 1100RT to a 1200RT. Can I get some comments on whether to get the water cooled version or the non-water cooled.

Thanks for the comments.
 
Its time to move up from my 1100RT to a 1200RT. Can I get some comments on whether to get the water cooled version or the non-water cooled.

Thanks for the comments.

Water cooled for sure. Much smoother and more power.


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The water cooled bike is smaller than the Hexhead/Camhead.

It has more power but is not any more smooth running.

Due to the wet clutch, clutch replacement is much simpler.

BMWs are continuously improved ... the best of the Hexheads is 2009, best of the Camheads 2011-on, Wethead transmission improved 2017.
 
The water cooled bike is smaller than the Hexhead/Camhead.

It has more power but is not any more smooth running.

Due to the wet clutch, clutch replacement is much simpler.

BMWs are continuously improved ... the best of the Hexheads is 2009, best of the Camheads 2011-on, Wethead transmission improved 2017.

I heard that the 2018s are much more refined, shift smoother and run smoother. More attention to details inside the engine have smithed things out? Reports on the shift cam engine look like the engine is still smoother than the 2018? In fact I just watched several YouTube videos describing how the new engine no longer feels tractor like?


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I have owned a 2006 RT and now have a 2016 RTW. Both are great bikes and will be a bit upgrade in many ways over your current ride. The HexHead and CamHeads were truly built like tanks and my '06 never let me down and was one of my favorite bikes. But the WetHead has a lot of improvements including a smoother more powerful engine, Shift Assist Pro, improved lighting, 12K mile valve check intervals and easier to replace clutch just to name a few. For me ... if you can afford the WC that is the way I would go for sure. There are quite a few 2018's still in dealers and they are giving some amazing deals.

Good luck!
 
Its time to move up from my 1100RT to a 1200RT. Can I get some comments on whether to get the water cooled version or the non-water cooled.

Thanks for the comments.

Apples and oranges, my 15 RT is the best bike i’ve Owned
FYI Long Beach BMW has a new “in crate” 15RT deeply discounted
 
I heard that the 2018s are much more refined, shift smoother and run smoother.

2017 added the judder damper to help w/ clunky low gear shifts and shifting from N to 1st. But from what I gather the real big change happens w/ the 2019 1250. And the '14-'16 models are fabulous anyway :dance
 
What about Shift Assist Pro? Does that not factor in a better shift?

Not sure when they started offering SAP. It takes me bit to get used to, but I think I am going to like it. Even using the clutch on a 2019 RT makes shifting pretty smooth. I cannot comment on prior year model RT shifting, but have a sometimes clunky shift R1200C. So I can understand that aspect.
 
What about Shift Assist Pro? Does that not factor in a better shift?

Not sure when they started offering SAP. It takes me bit to get used to, but I think I am going to like it. Even using the clutch on a 2019 RT makes shifting pretty smooth. I cannot comment on prior year model RT shifting, but have a sometimes clunky shift R1200C. So I can understand that aspect.

Once you learn how to use the SAP it is GREAT! Every generation boxer motor I have owned has shifter better than the last. My 1150 shifter better than my '97 RT .... my '06 RT shifter better than my '02 1150 and now my '16 RT shifts better than my '06 RT. The 2016 RT shifts really smooth to me and the best so far. No clunk and no need to pre-load like on my '02 1150
 
I've owned a 2005 and currently a 2016.

The wet head weights a few pounds more than the hex and cam heads, but it feels lighter and not as top heavy as the older models. Unless you have a particular love for the earlier model, get the wet head. Its easier to handle, has more power, and IMO is a nicer machine.
 
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...but it feels lighter and not as top heavy as the older models.

Yes, coming from a 2012 RT to a 2017 RTW, the very first thing that got my attention is the lower centre of gravity. And yes, it seems smoother in terms of power delivery as well.
 
Riding my friend's R1150RT vs. my 2005 R1200RT, it is like night and day.

Riding my 2005 R1200RT vs. my new 2015 R1200RT Wethead is like night and day.

Given that, you can get a 2005-2009 bike for $4-6k, while a 2014-2018 will run you $10k-20k+

See the Marketplace for my 2005...
 
I think you've gotten a pretty good overview of what most folks feel are the primary differences. I would add or elaborate on two things:

  • Cost - While it is quite true that a 2005-2009 RT will cost about 6k less than a 2014-28 RTW, it is also true that there will also likely be a 4-6k difference if and when you decide to sell whatever you buy. Therefore, I always look at these differences as being a) can I afford to tie-up that difference now and b) how much is it really (a 5k difference even at 5%/yr is $250/yr) and c) is that ~$250/yr worth the difference to me. The price difference between the two is there for good reason, it isn't an arbitrary difference.
  • Overall maintenance - Noticeabily less maintenance required for the RTW. However, some depends on if you will do most of the service or a dealership. The RTW is actually easier to do all of the maintenance, although it appears at first to be more daunting it is not.
    RTW - every 6,000 miles or year, change engine oil and filter, every 12k do 6k plus change air-filter, final drive oil, plugs, check valves (it appears that over 50% of the LC bikes checked didn't need valve adjustments @ 12k)
My answer to the above is yes to the RTW. So far they have been more trouble free and easier scheduled maintenance than any previous BMW Boxer.

... Having gone from an 1150 Rt to a 2012 RT, not much was better on the 1150. I'm sure that is also the case with the water boxers. I'm very excited to see what happens to the prices of the water boxers, as people with more money than I buy the new shift cam bikes.
My experience was going from a great 2004 R1150RT to my current 2014 RTW. While I loved my 2004 and the 2005-2009 was a noticeable improvement, there wasn't enough of a difference between those two models to make me change. When the RTW came out the difference between it and the 2004 R1150RT was/is substantial and I made the plunge. Never been happier. Still remember the R1150RT very fondly and prefer its looks, but the RTW is so good. Compared to the previous versions, the RTW offers lower center of gravity, better braking/handling/acceleration and slightly better fuel economy. When I factored in lower maintenance costs (I do my own), and a slight lower fuel spend, I figured the overall cost difference was perhaps 1-cent per mile and I can tell you 1-cent per mile is cheap for the smile it puts on my face. ;-)

I think if I already had a 2006-2013 R1200RT the decision would be more difficult. However, barring that, the only reason to buy an 2006-2009 now is price of admission. If springing for the RTW is a roblem than the 2006-2013 R1200RT is still a great bike that will take you anywhere there is pavement.
 
I think you've gotten a pretty good overview of what most folks feel are the primary differences. I would add or elaborate on two things:

  • Cost - While it is quite true that a 2005-2009 RT will cost about 6k less than a 2014-28 RTW, it is also true that there will also likely be a 4-6k difference if and when you decide to sell whatever you buy. Therefore, I always look at these differences as being a) can I afford to tie-up that difference now and b) how much is it really (a 5k difference even at 5%/yr is $250/yr) and c) is that ~$250/yr worth the difference to me. The price difference between the two is there for good reason, it isn't an arbitrary difference.
  • Overall maintenance - Noticeabily less maintenance required for the RTW. However, some depends on if you will do most of the service or a dealership. The RTW is actually easier to do all of the maintenance, although it appears at first to be more daunting it is not.
    RTW - every 6,000 miles or year, change engine oil and filter, every 12k do 6k plus change air-filter, final drive oil, plugs, check valves (it appears that over 50% of the LC bikes checked didn't need valve adjustments @ 12k)
My answer to the above is yes to the RTW. So far they have been more trouble free and easier scheduled maintenance than any previous BMW Boxer.


My experience was going from a great 2004 R1150RT to my current 2014 RTW. While I loved my 2004 and the 2005-2009 was a noticeable improvement, there wasn't enough of a difference between those two models to make me change. When the RTW came out the difference between it and the 2004 R1150RT was/is substantial and I made the plunge. Never been happier. Still remember the R1150RT very fondly and prefer its looks, but the RTW is so good. Compared to the previous versions, the RTW offers lower center of gravity, better braking/handling/acceleration and slightly better fuel economy. When I factored in lower maintenance costs (I do my own), and a slight lower fuel spend, I figured the overall cost difference was perhaps 1-cent per mile and I can tell you 1-cent per mile is cheap for the smile it puts on my face. ;-)

I think if I already had a 2006-2013 R1200RT the decision would be more difficult. However, barring that, the only reason to buy an 2006-2009 now is price of admission. If springing for the RTW is a roblem than the 2006-2013 R1200RT is still a great bike that will take you anywhere there is pavement.

I agree that there is a huge depreciation in value when you drive off the new bike. It’s always been that way. In comparison, a new RT in 1985 was $7500. A new car was about $15000 American style a new BMW was about $25000. So it was about 1/3 the price of an average BMW car.

Now the RT and GS bikes are all pricing out at $25000 the way BMW is packaging them state side. About half the cost of the BMW cars. Why is that? It’s that way because BMW was subsidizing the bikes in those days and ownership supported the cars carrying the bike business. It’s not that way anymore at BMW. The bike projects are being run by the car guys now and the bikes need to finance themselves. That’s what is giving us the generally higher new prices. All that low interest rates offered by mfr financing sources is offset by inflated new prices as well. In the first year they will drop from 25K to 16 K. Pay to be first is the rule for new shift cam toys. In 2003 I paid $20k to get out the door with gear helmet and latest / greatest bike. I’m not doin that again.


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I agree that there is a huge depreciation in value when you drive off the new bike. It’s always been that way. In comparison, a new RT in 1985 was $7500. A new car was about $15000 American style a new BMW was about $25000. So it was about 1/3 the price of an average BMW car.

Now the RT and GS bikes are all pricing out at $25000 the way BMW is packaging them state side. About half the cost of the BMW cars. Why is that? It’s that way because BMW was subsidizing the bikes in those days and ownership supported the cars carrying the bike business. It’s not that way anymore at BMW. The bike projects are being run by the car guys now and the bikes need to finance themselves. That’s what is giving us the generally higher new prices. All that low interest rates offered by mfr financing sources is offset by inflated new prices as well. In the first year they will drop from 25K to 16 K. Pay to be first is the rule for new shift cam toys. In 2003 I paid $20k to get out the door with gear helmet and latest / greatest bike. I’m not doin that again.


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I've always bought at the end of the season (Sept and Oct) and have gotten killer deals. In addition I usually keep each bike 8 to 10 years. So my depreciation is not so drastic. But it is all personal choice whether you want the "latest and greatest model" or are happy with saving $4-6000 on last year's model. Cars are a whole different story. I have in the past bought late model (2 or 3 years old) low mileage vehicles and saved a lot. Today the used car market has gotten crazy and the nice late model used models seem to save you less making it almost as beneficial to buy new and get a full warranty.
 
I had a 2008 Hexhead, and loved it until I rode a 2018 Wethead. Way smoother better handling and way more power. Tranny is butter smooth. Can't really speak to maintenance, cause I haven't really done anything but change oil. That job is worse on the Wethead, they put the oil filter right where it drains onto the head pipe. But a little Al foil takes care of that. I love all the improvements in the 18, and my 08 was loaded with everything available, like my 18. If ya got the $ go for a wethead, 17 or 18
 
Can I get some comments on whether to get the water cooled version or the non-water cooled....

I have an '05 Hexhead and I demo'd the water cooled version last summer. It was an amazing bike, but I chose to stay with my current bike because it is less complex, and I prefer the analog instrumentation.

Suggest you ride both of them and see what your impressions are.
 
I have an '05 Hexhead and I demo'd the water cooled version last summer. It was an amazing bike, but I chose to stay with my current bike because it is less complex, and I prefer the analog instrumentation.

Suggest you ride both of them and see what your impressions are.

Less complex maybe .... but ironically the water cooled bikes are cheaper and easier to maintain. And you can still get analog dash

  • 12K Valve checks
  • Final Drive with fill and drain plugs
  • Full Synthetic Oil from day one
  • Valves rarely need adjusting
  • Only 2 spark plugs
 
The RTW Of course. Why would you get a bike that’s at least 6 years old,that’s not being made anymore for your primary transportation / touring? Unless that’s all you can afford.:)
 
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