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Replacing Sump and Gasket

A

armartel

New member
The gasket is leaking and I'm planning to replace it tomorrow. As I was evaluating the sump, I noticed a whole bunch of gunk which appears to be oil and other materials that accumulated between the sump pan and the rock guard. Can anyone suggest the best way to clean the sump pan after I remove it? What products do toy all use for both the bottom of the pan and to remove the current gasket remnants?

Thanks.
 
armartel said:
The gasket is leaking and I'm planning to replace it tomorrow. As I was evaluating the sump, I noticed a whole bunch of gunk which appears to be oil and other materials that accumulated between the sump pan and the rock guard. Can anyone suggest the best way to clean the sump pan after I remove it? What products do toy all use for both the bottom of the pan and to remove the current gasket remnants?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Any general foaming type "engine cleaner" will work. My favorite other than that is Carb Out spray type carb cleaner.
 
Before removing the pan first use an inch-pound torque wrench to torque the pan bolts to correct value. That way you can verify you have no stripped holes to helicoil, or can identify the ones that do need attention. If the old gasket has been installed correctly (meaning bare, no goop) it should clean off the block and pan fairly easily. I use a soaking with Goo Gone and a single-edge razor blade scraper to remove any stubborn gasket bits without scratching the aluminum.

Best,
DG
 
Any carb cleaner brand is your friend here. Check that the bolts are tight on the sump tube thingy itself. Be sure and use the CORRECT torque values on the pan bolts and do not over-torque.
 
@GTRider has a great point. It is a bad day when you are putting it back together to find that a couple of the fasteners won't hold torque. These are less subject to clutz damage than most other 6mm bolts on the bike, because not too many people ever remove the pan. Be sure to put s dab of thread sealer on the bolt under the oil filter, as it threads through to oil instead of being a blind hole.
 
Thanks and great thoughts. Beemerphile, can you clarify which bolt you mean by “the bolt under the oil filter?”

beemerphile said:
@GTRider has a great point. It is a bad day when you are putting it back together to find that a couple of the fasteners won't hold torque. These are less subject to clutz damage than most other 6mm bolts on the bike, because not too many people ever remove the pan. Be sure to put s dab of thread sealer on the bolt under the oil filter, as it threads through to oil instead of being a blind hole.
Click to expand...




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
armartel said:
Thanks and great thoughts. Beemerphile, can you clarify which bolt you mean by “the bolt under the oil filter?”

When you get the pan off it will be obvious. You just feel the engine casing above the bolt hole closest to the oil filter and you will feel there is a hole on top. Not so with all the other bolts. And yeah, this one will leak if you don't put a small dab of Hylomar or Permatex Ultra Grey which is what I've been using the past couple of years. It works extremely well for resealing the cylinder bases to the engine case and also for the threads on that particular bolt.
Click to expand...
 
ebeeby said:
Any carb cleaner brand is your friend here. Check that the bolts are tight on the sump tube thingy itself. Be sure and use the CORRECT torque values on the pan bolts and do not over-torque.
Click to expand...

What are the torque values for the pan bolts? I have the clymer manual and can't find a value for it.

Of course two are stripped anyhow.....
 
Snowbum has some info on pan bolts in the middle of this page:

https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquevalues.htm

But I would suggest that a torque wrench is not needed. Use a nut-driver screwdriver with a 10mm socket on the end. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern evenly. The torque from your hand should be enough to secure the pan. After the first heat-cycle, retighten. This sort of hand tightening should be sufficient.
 
I still use real solvent, in a solvent tank for grungy stuff. Nobody else? I can still get it, even here in Ca. It's wonderful stuff for oily, greasy things.
 
Chunk-

What is 'real solvent'?

My shop uses Graymills 'Regular Agitene', which I find decent, but not incredible....

Curious what others might be using in parts washers.

In the ultrasonic tank, we use Simple Green Extreme Aircraft and Precision cleaner.

ECJ
 
ecjjce said:
Chunk-

What is 'real solvent'?

My shop uses Graymills 'Regular Agitene', which I find decent, but not incredible....

Curious what others might be using in parts washers.

In the ultrasonic tank, we use Simple Green Extreme Aircraft and Precision cleaner.

ECJ
Click to expand...

This is what I use. It is one of the few, if only automotive chemical that still works as well as it did 30 years ago. Every time I go to buy 5 more gallons, I'm afraid that it will be N/A, but fortunately for me, so far so good.
IMG_20201129_062259571.jpg
 
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