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Thread: r75 rusty spokes

  1. #1
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    r75 rusty spokes

    Hi
    Spent the day going for a nice local ride up here in Beantown. Got home and started my winter detail. Tooth brush, wd-40, aluminum polish, scrubby pads, etc. These old /5s clean up so nice. One thing I can't polish is the rusty spokes. Looking for a fix. As a kid I would use steel wool on my bicycle and they cleaned up well. Not so on the /5. SO looking for advice to clean up the spokes.
    Thanks Brian

  2. #2
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Not sure if you saw them, but there's a couple of related threads in the Similar Threads pane below.

    I wonder if you got some metal sandpaper, say 600 grit, and cut it into strips and then use the strips one-by-one to "spit shine" the spokes.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  3. #3
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    I have had luck with an old standby- NeverDull. Flitz polish with their felt buff-wheel may help with some of the more open areas.
    OM
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
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  4. #4
    If your chrome has deteriorated to the point that it is flaking, it is a lost cause to try to shine the spokes up. A 10x glass will allow you to determine this.

  5. #5
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    I was in your situation after the frame-off restoration of my R75/5.
    The bike looked like new and the pitted spokes stood out like a sore thumb.
    I ended up installing stainless steel spokes. The money and amount of work was well worth it.
    If you go that route make sure you have someone who can true the wheels before you get started.

  6. #6
    Rally Rat 1074's Avatar
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    Spokes

    I'd replace the spokes. Once the chrome starts to peel they'll never look good again. The OEM spokes will last a long time if you keep them clean. So if you're going for total correctness then go with them and use the BMW Spoke weights. If not then the Stainless spokes from Buchanon are the best.
    Boxerbruce

  7. #7
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    Hi
    How hard or what is the learning curve to lace the rims on these /5s. Not afraid to get my hands dirty, just don't want to do a bad job because it will be a first time for me. To help make the decision what do you think the bottom line would be on bucannon lacing the rims.
    Thanks
    Brian

  8. #8
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Brian -

    You would probably need to contact Buchanan to find out more details - cost, turnaround, etc. As for lacing, it's important to have a suitable stand to hold things. The spokes interlace a specific way. Plus there is an offset that the hub has relative to the rim. That offset must be replicated in order for things to fit later on. After that, I suspect it's a matter of tightening the spokes in a pattern and creeping up on the finish. The rim must spin in a relatively perfect plane when done.

    Duane Ausherman has a page on lacing rims:

    https://w6rec.com/wheel-building-and-spokes/

    Here's a link from Duane's page to Lonnie's page on /2 rims:

    http://agwalker.com/wheelbuilding.html
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  9. #9
    Rally Rat 1074's Avatar
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    Lacing 101

    It's really easy if you pay attention to the first part. Start with the hub on a flat surface with the rim surrounding it. Put one spoke through one of the upper spoke holes in the hub. Align the rim so that there is a nipple hole on the upper side of the rim that points in the direction of the spoke. If there is no hole that points in the right direction (and on top) then flip the rim over and find one that does. Screw in the nipple until the threads disappear into the nipple. From that point where the spoke runs through the hub. insert a spoke through the lower hole. That one will point in the other direction and should aligh with a hole on the rim. You'll have to move the rim around a bit to get it into the right hole but it should be obvious. Thread the nipple on as before.
    Go to the opposite side and install two spokes as before. Everything should line up. If not, go back over it. Now you should have the hub and rim located for the rest of the spokes on the top side of the hub so go ahead and install them all leaving the nipples just covering the ends of the threads. Flop the whole thing over upside down and install the rest of the spokes as before.
    Sorry I don't have a visual because this process is very simple once you see what to do. You can PM me if you need to.
    If you've never trued a wheel before then I suggest that you take it to someone with that experience.
    Boxerbruce

  10. #10
    Although I have laced and trued wheels before, I opted to go to Woody's this time around. I bought my stainless spokes from Bob's BMW and rims from Capital Cycle (a few years back). I did the basic wheel assembly and let Woody's do the final truing. They charged my $70/wheel.

  11. #11
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    Where YOU do it, or you have someone like Buchanan's do it, make sure they are aware of the brake drum offset on /5 front wheels (not present on disc brake hubs).

    See > https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...t-Wheel-Offset

    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden
    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner
    1963 Dnepr

  12. #12
    Registered User cwroady's Avatar
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    This raised a red flag for me since I had Buchanans respoke my 60/5 wheels a year and a half ago and did not mention any offset. I called them up and asked if they could confirm if my front wheel was laced with an offset, thinking an answer wasn't likely. They told me they would need to pull their records from their on-site archives and call me back. True to their word, they called me back a day or so later and said they laced the wheel with a 1-13/16 offset from brake to center of wheel ... now if I can figure out how to correlate that to a 10mm offset I will have an answer ;-)
    Chris - 2015 BMW RT / 1973 BMW R75/5 - Yard Art - 1968 Hodaka / 1968 Sachs
    President SCBMWRC https://scbmwrc.com/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/scbmwrc/
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  13. #13
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    they laced the wheel with a 1-13/16 offset from brake to center of wheel
    1-13/16" = 1.8125"

    10mm = .3937"

    not sure what, or how, they got their dimension spec.
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden
    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner
    1963 Dnepr

  14. #14
    Gerard jagarra's Avatar
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    Wouldn't you have to include 1/2 the width of the rim as they stated to the center of the wheel. I believe the specs shown for the rims are the ID of the rim width not the OD based on measuring it from the outside. Check the OD of the rim divide in half add the 10mm and see what you get.
    1994 R1100RS-(5/93)-,1974 R90/6 built 9/73,--1964 Triumph T100--1986 Honda XL600R

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