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Thread: 4-Valve valve adjustment

  1. #16
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    Job complete!
    Today I put in the new buckets to set the valve gaps, and buttoned the whole thing up. Problems I was concerned with turned out to be non-issues. The chain never slipped off the crank sprocket, and the one cam sprocket that I did remove (intake) was easy to get back on the shaft.
    I never really felt like had moved the cam chain tensioner, which is required in order to get enough slack in the chain in order to get the sprockets off. But apparently either I did, or since the bike had been sitting a month prior to the job, the oil had drained from the tensioner and it retracted itself.
    As mentioned previously I went with a new valve cover gasket. FWIW, the new one measured 0.020" thicker than the old one, which had been compressed in there for 16 years. I didn't use new rubber spacers on the valve cover bolts because 1) I didn't remember to buy them when at the dealer, and 2) after spending $250 on this job, I cheaped out. I'll watch for leaks.

    Of course now I have mastered this new skill, but it's on a bike that may never get its valves adjusted again. So if anyone's riding their K thru Western Mass and feels the need for a valve adjustment.....

  2. #17
    Registered User GTRider's Avatar
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    Congrats, and enjoy the ride!

    Best,
    DG
    DGerber
    1983 R80ST — 1984 R80 G/S-PD — 2004 K1200GT w/Hannigan S/C — 2010 K1300GT — 2018 R1200GS
    BMWMOA#52184, AMA#271542, IBA#138

  3. #18
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    valve cover removal

    Quote Originally Posted by GTRider View Post
    Congrats, and enjoy the ride!

    Best,
    DG
    I wish I could say this job is behind me. I began to remove the lower fairing this afternoon, as we have a period of very mild weather now. I now wonder (with the lower fairing bit loose but still in place) if there is enough wiggle room between it and the valve cover to pull the cover off with the fairing piece still in place. Has anyone done that?
    Second question: what's the trick to removing the black plastic cover from the upper part of the tipover bar? Mine seems welded in place? I'd rather not destroy it....

  4. #19
    Registered User GTRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by walt3022 View Post
    I wish I could say this job is behind me. I began to remove the lower fairing this afternoon, as we have a period of very mild weather now. I now wonder (with the lower fairing bit loose but still in place) if there is enough wiggle room between it and the valve cover to pull the cover off with the fairing piece still in place. Has anyone done that?
    Second question: what's the trick to removing the black plastic cover from the upper part of the tipover bar? Mine seems welded in place? I'd rather not destroy it....
    Never tried it, I always remove the fairing side panels and the belly pan when doing a major service. I’m not sure what tipover bar you are referring to?

    Best,
    DG
    DGerber
    1983 R80ST — 1984 R80 G/S-PD — 2004 K1200GT w/Hannigan S/C — 2010 K1300GT — 2018 R1200GS
    BMWMOA#52184, AMA#271542, IBA#138

  5. #20
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    I'm with DG. I'm not sure what a tip over bar is. Any chance you have a K1200GT (with the rubber fairing extensions)?

    FWIW, once the belly pan is off, there aren't that many more screws to pull in order to get off the left side panel. Okay, now that I rethink that, there are a ****load of screws because the "dashboard" panels on their side of the instrument pod have to come off along with the nose piece.
    Put a positive spin on it: it'll give you the chance to check the other components for signs of wear and fraying. I'm taking the opportunity to change the air filter and coolant since I'm already in there.

    Come to think of it, has anyone else had paint bubble forming on the crankcase cover? One is about 3/8" diameter, and other a full 1 1/4". The paint lifts off the magnesium cover and swells up to form a full round, hollow bubble.

  6. #21
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    That bar is a common fixture on the K-bikes of the '80s & '90s. It protects the valve cover or the crankcase cover if the bike gets away from you. It's chrome steel and attached at points above and below the valve cover (in this case on the left side) of the engine. If that's still unclear, check part #46 71 2 316 371. After some consideration of that plastic plug in the end, I've decided to apply heat to the steel. Perhaps the plug will then come out willingly.

    BTW, measuring the cover gasket was brilliant. I'd have never thought of that. After your discovery I'm wondering if I'll be shooting myself in the foot if I don't replace it on a bike from 1996. But, boy are those guys expensive!

  7. #22
    Registered User GTRider's Avatar
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    BTW for the OP: if this is a 2003-04 GT or RS there should be in your toolkit a vinyl or rubber tube slipped over one of the wrenches. It’s intended use is not to quiet any tool rattle, but is to be slid onto the exposed end of the upper support bracket for the fairing panel BEFORE you remove or install the fairing panel. Without it, you WILL scratch the panel. I see those telltale scratches on quite a few of those bikes.

    Best,
    DG
    DGerber
    1983 R80ST — 1984 R80 G/S-PD — 2004 K1200GT w/Hannigan S/C — 2010 K1300GT — 2018 R1200GS
    BMWMOA#52184, AMA#271542, IBA#138

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTRider View Post
    BTW for the OP: if this is a 2003-04 GT or RS there should be in your toolkit a vinyl or rubber tube slipped over one of the wrenches. It’s intended use is not to quiet any tool rattle, but is to be slid onto the exposed end of the upper support bracket for the fairing panel BEFORE you remove or install the fairing panel. Without it, you WILL scratch the panel. I see those telltale scratches on quite a few of those bikes.

    Best,
    DG
    Great tip! I was unaware of that.
    I'd been dropping a rag over that bracket when removing/replacing the side panels, as there is a scratch just waiting to happen there.
    Those Germans think of everything!

  9. #24
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    I completed the measurement of the valves on my K1100LT this afternoon. As (bad) luck would have it, I'll have to remove both the in. and ex. cams. No. 1 intake valves are both .10 mm; No. 4 exhaust valves are both at .20 mm. Perhaps worse yet, all the other valves are at their minimum lash. I'm looking at considerable expense for new buckets.

  10. #25
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    Since you are in there and have the cams off, you want to set ALL the exhausts at maximum lash. You may find that one or more of the buckets you remove will work perfectly for another valve. Check this before you order new buckets.




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  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98lee View Post
    Since you are in there and have the cams off, you want to set ALL the exhausts at maximum lash. You may find that one or more of the buckets you remove will work perfectly for another valve. Check this before you order new buckets.
    You may want to post the new bucket sizes you need here on the board. Some of us may have buckets in the size you need.

  12. #27
    Mehrten
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    Needed Bucket Sizes

    Quote Originally Posted by JeffDiCarlo View Post
    You may want to post the new bucket sizes you need here on the board. Some of us may have buckets in the size you need.
    Yes. I have several buckets that I will trade.

    They're not cheap anymore, that's for sure.

  13. #28
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    1996 K1100LT valve adjustment

    I've concluded that it would be wise to set all the valves at the wider end of the recommended tolerances. I've measured and calculated what I need for my K1100LT -- and it's a lot! I need six (6) 2.60 mm and three (3) 2.75 mm buckets to bring them into spec. I hope there is some opportunity to trade buckets with other riders.

  14. #29
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    Wow. Nine out of sixteen out of spec. Lucky guy!
    My extra buckets are all 2.90. Sorry

  15. #30
    Mehrten
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    Sorry, can't match you exactly.

    I have 2 ea 2.650 and 1 ea 2.80 that are close.

    If they'll work let me know.

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