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Thread: 4-Valve valve adjustment

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  1. #1
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    4-Valve valve adjustment

    I'm wondering what you do-it-yourselfers have done regarding valve adjustment on the 4-valve bricks? I've done it myself on the old 2 valve bikes; there was once a kit with spare shims circulating the community. The 4-valve bikes seems to require the PITA cam removal, but even once you accomplish that, do you just go to the dealer to buy the shim sizes you need?
    The typical approach I've seen in scanning postings has been to ignore the issue altogether, and go on the theory that they never get too far out of spec. I've just measured mine (2003 K12RS w/ ~50k miles, never previously adjusted) and found all the exhaust valves in spec; three of the intakes were low. The worst was at 0.004 for a spec of 0.006-0.008.

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
    Registered User beemermyke's Avatar
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    I'm going to lurk here on his question too... my son wants to do the same on his 96 K1100RS.
    Motorcycling is my passion because golf is far too dangerous!
    2016 R1200GSW

  3. #3
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    I did some further research after my initial posting.
    There are some good online sessions on how to do the job. It doesn't look too tough. My big fear is having the cam chain slip a tooth and the timing going to hell.
    My local dealer has the valve buckets in stock (most sizes) for about $35 each.
    I'd still like to hear from those who have done it.

  4. #4
    Registered User GTRider's Avatar
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    Unlike the 2V bikes, there are no shims so you have to install a new bucket. The service manual outlines the procedure for removing the cam. Once that’s out, you can remove the buckets one at a time and measure them with a micrometer, record the thickness, then calculate the size bucket you need to purchase to correct the clearance. Sometimes you luck out and can move an existing bucket to a new location to correct the clearance, and not need to buy a bucket. There is a chart in the factory service DVD that is useful for recording bucket sizes and calculating replacements or moves. But do always check the buckets with a micrometer, even tho their size is printed inside. The valve cover gasket can be re-used if in good condition, but needs a couple small dots of RTV at locations shown in the manual.

    It’s not a bad or terribly difficult job, just be methodical about it.

    Best,
    DG
    DGerber
    1983 R80ST 1984 R80 G/S-PD 2004 K1200GT w/Hannigan S/C 2010 K1300GT 2018 R1200GS
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  5. #5
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    You've probably already seen this and since you've done it yourself a few times, maybe this doesn't help. It's for the K1200LT. The Illinois BMW Riders have some videos on checking the clearances...not sure what it says about what to do if things are out of spec:

    https://illinoisbmwriders.com/servic...learence-check
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  6. #6
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    4 valve valve check/adjustment

    I viewed the video cited above and found it very confidence-inspiring; fortunate because I'm looking to check and maybe adjust the valves on my K1100LT soon. The one part that does give me pause however, is indexing the sprockets when it's time to install the cams once again. The video references a OEM tool but the guy doesn't have/use it when he replaces the sprockets. Mess that step up and you could cause yourself a serious headache $$$. My plan is to take a lot of pix as I go in there to measure clearances and possibly swap buckets.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by walt3022 View Post
    I viewed the video cited above and found it very confidence-inspiring; fortunate because I'm looking to check and maybe adjust the valves on my K1100LT soon. The one part that does give me pause however, is indexing the sprockets when it's time to install the cams once again. The video references a OEM tool but the guy doesn't have/use it when he replaces the sprockets. Mess that step up and you could cause yourself a serious headache $$$. My plan is to take a lot of pix as I go in there to measure clearances and possibly swap buckets.
    Exactly my issue.
    I'm okay with tying the chain to the cam sprockets and pulling the cams off of them, but what about going back on?
    With the cams off the sprockets, and the chain tensioner backed off, what's keeping the chain engaged properly with the crankshaft sprocket? If a tooth slips there, what do you do?

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