• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

4-Valve valve adjustment

That bar is a common fixture on the K-bikes of the '80s & '90s. It protects the valve cover or the crankcase cover if the bike gets away from you. It's chrome steel and attached at points above and below the valve cover (in this case on the left side) of the engine. If that's still unclear, check part #46 71 2 316 371. After some consideration of that plastic plug in the end, I've decided to apply heat to the steel. Perhaps the plug will then come out willingly.

BTW, measuring the cover gasket was brilliant. I'd have never thought of that. After your discovery I'm wondering if I'll be shooting myself in the foot if I don't replace it on a bike from 1996. But, boy are those guys expensive!
 
BTW for the OP: if this is a 2003-04 GT or RS there should be in your toolkit a vinyl or rubber tube slipped over one of the wrenches. It’s intended use is not to quiet any tool rattle, but is to be slid onto the exposed end of the upper support bracket for the fairing panel BEFORE you remove or install the fairing panel. Without it, you WILL scratch the panel. I see those telltale scratches on quite a few of those bikes.

Best,
DG
 
BTW for the OP: if this is a 2003-04 GT or RS there should be in your toolkit a vinyl or rubber tube slipped over one of the wrenches. It’s intended use is not to quiet any tool rattle, but is to be slid onto the exposed end of the upper support bracket for the fairing panel BEFORE you remove or install the fairing panel. Without it, you WILL scratch the panel. I see those telltale scratches on quite a few of those bikes.

Best,
DG

Great tip! I was unaware of that.
I'd been dropping a rag over that bracket when removing/replacing the side panels, as there is a scratch just waiting to happen there.
Those Germans think of everything!
 
I completed the measurement of the valves on my K1100LT this afternoon. As (bad) luck would have it, I'll have to remove both the in. and ex. cams. No. 1 intake valves are both .10 mm; No. 4 exhaust valves are both at .20 mm. Perhaps worse yet, all the other valves are at their minimum lash. I'm looking at considerable expense for new buckets. :cry
 
Since you are in there and have the cams off, you want to set ALL the exhausts at maximum lash. You may find that one or more of the buckets you remove will work perfectly for another valve. Check this before you order new buckets.




:dance:dance:dance
 
Since you are in there and have the cams off, you want to set ALL the exhausts at maximum lash. You may find that one or more of the buckets you remove will work perfectly for another valve. Check this before you order new buckets.

You may want to post the new bucket sizes you need here on the board. Some of us may have buckets in the size you need. :)
 
1996 K1100LT valve adjustment

I've concluded that it would be wise to set all the valves at the wider end of the recommended tolerances. I've measured and calculated what I need for my K1100LT -- and it's a lot! I need six (6) 2.60 mm and three (3) 2.75 mm buckets to bring them into spec. I hope there is some opportunity to trade buckets with other riders.
 
Back
Top