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LOOKING AT 2004 R1150 RT - What To Look Out For???
- Thread starter timonbik
- Start date
RPGR90s
Member
Rt
I've owned my '04 RT since new and it now has 104k.
Things to look out for:
Make sure oil and fluid changes were done at least every 6k.
Brake fluid (Power assisted brakes need flushing at least every 2 years)
Clutch fluid flush (at least every 2 years also)
Rear end play. Grab wheel at 6 and 12 and try moving. Then grab at 9 and 3 and do the same.
Big problem with some bikes is that the ignition key harness gets stressed from moving the bars, over time, since the wiring was wrapped too tight. Verify that there's no loss of power when moving the bars (key on)
Other than that, just take it for a ride and see how it feels.
RickR90s
I've owned my '04 RT since new and it now has 104k.
Things to look out for:
Make sure oil and fluid changes were done at least every 6k.
Brake fluid (Power assisted brakes need flushing at least every 2 years)
Clutch fluid flush (at least every 2 years also)
Rear end play. Grab wheel at 6 and 12 and try moving. Then grab at 9 and 3 and do the same.
Big problem with some bikes is that the ignition key harness gets stressed from moving the bars, over time, since the wiring was wrapped too tight. Verify that there's no loss of power when moving the bars (key on)
Other than that, just take it for a ride and see how it feels.
RickR90s
tpmcleod24
New member
I recently bought a low mileage 2004 1150 RT and test drive was good. On the way home the ABS light came on. Long story short, i ended up doing two flushes and replacing the brake lines which has so far corrected the issue. The ABS light didn't come on until after about 20 to 30 minutes of riding, and was not always consistent. I would recommend taking it for a decently long test drive.
Brake Stuff
Above brake flush stuff sounds like good preventive maintenance, do it right away than you know when it was done that it was done right and when you next need to do it.
Above brake flush stuff sounds like good preventive maintenance, do it right away than you know when it was done that it was done right and when you next need to do it.
If it has the original rubber brake lines, replace them IMMEDIATELY - or sooner.
happy wanderer
Day Dreaming ...
Welcome to the Forum!
There must be a half a dozen threads at least on buying an '04 1150RT so try the search box above and you will find more than you can read in one evening for sure. No one has mentioned the potential final drives issues with this model or the too short input shaft that does not fully engage the clutch hub. This issue has caused a lot of input shaft failures and clutch hub failures. I would never buy an 1150RT without a thorough inspection of the splines. This involves removing the left side tupperware, pulling the starter and taking some measurements. All documented here already.
There must be a half a dozen threads at least on buying an '04 1150RT so try the search box above and you will find more than you can read in one evening for sure. No one has mentioned the potential final drives issues with this model or the too short input shaft that does not fully engage the clutch hub. This issue has caused a lot of input shaft failures and clutch hub failures. I would never buy an 1150RT without a thorough inspection of the splines. This involves removing the left side tupperware, pulling the starter and taking some measurements. All documented here already.
roger 04 rt
New member
Tim,
I wouldn’t be afraid of the input shaft, I’d just check it before purchase. It’s quite easy.
Here are the things I've replaced or upgraded over six years of owning a 2004 R1150RT:
1. SS brake lines.
2. New stick coils
3. Second Load Relay (already on some bikes)
4. Replaced all in-tank fuel hoses (very important if it hasn't been done yet)
5. Inspect the clutch hub to transmission input shaft for excessive play.
Things I also changed:
5. Changed to stock spark plugs
6. Added an LC-1 (AF-XIED) mixture richening system.
7. Replaced the starter because the original dropped its internal cover onto the armature.
7.5 Left-side Cam Chain Tensioner
Things not to add/change.
8. No need to externalize the fuel filter
9. No need to change the coding plug
10. No need to remove the charcoal canister
11. No need for any other fueling mod
12. Leave the stock intake tubes
13. Leave the stock exhaust
14. If you have an AGM battery, don't use a Battery Tender Jr. charger.
Do give it a proper tune up and use stock fluids.
I wouldn’t be afraid of the input shaft, I’d just check it before purchase. It’s quite easy.
Here are the things I've replaced or upgraded over six years of owning a 2004 R1150RT:
1. SS brake lines.
2. New stick coils
3. Second Load Relay (already on some bikes)
4. Replaced all in-tank fuel hoses (very important if it hasn't been done yet)
5. Inspect the clutch hub to transmission input shaft for excessive play.
Things I also changed:
5. Changed to stock spark plugs
6. Added an LC-1 (AF-XIED) mixture richening system.
7. Replaced the starter because the original dropped its internal cover onto the armature.
7.5 Left-side Cam Chain Tensioner
Things not to add/change.
8. No need to externalize the fuel filter
9. No need to change the coding plug
10. No need to remove the charcoal canister
11. No need for any other fueling mod
12. Leave the stock intake tubes
13. Leave the stock exhaust
14. If you have an AGM battery, don't use a Battery Tender Jr. charger.
Do give it a proper tune up and use stock fluids.
Excellent advice as usual from a number of members. Not to derail the thread, but why the caution on the BT Jr. charger? I've used them on my AGM batteries for 10 years with one battery 8 years old and still working fine. Curious minds want to know!
dieselyoda
Active member
Excellent advice as usual from a number of members. Not to derail the thread, but why the caution on the BT Jr. charger? I've used them on my AGM batteries for 10 years with one battery 8 years old and still working fine. Curious minds want to know!
Here we go........................
nrpetersen
Curmudgeon
I'm curious too as I have a PC680 removed from my R1100RT, now about 12+ years old that still cranks my non-electric Piper J4. Always on a ground-based BT Jr.
roger 04 rt
New member
Check out the Odyssey web site. They explain it well.
kioolt
New member
Could you be more specific about where on the Odyssey site to look? Their site is extensive and the only thing that I can find is why you should use their chargers but nothing about not using a Battery Tender Jr.
dieselyoda
Active member
roger 04 rt
New member
Google search “approved odyssey battery chargers”: http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/ODYSSEY_approved_12V_chargers.pdf
Note the absence of BT Jr.
Also see: http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/ODYSSEY_Battery_Reconditioning_Charge_Procedure.pdf
Odyssey is not the only AGM battery manufacturer concerned with maintaining its batteries at 100% SOC (state of charge). Here is an aviation battery company I came across the other day when looking at batteries for a Cessna: http://www.concordebattery.com/accessories.php?id=58. It too specifies a specific charger.
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dieselyoda
Active member
There is nothing on the Odyssey website that says you can't use a Battery Tender Jr. either.
AGM stands for absorbed glass mat. In short, it's an FLA with fiberglass between the plates. If you have a charger that approaches the 14.0V area when charging, an AGM will be fine. Odyssey just happens to have a battery that fits our bikes while I haven't been able to find an Optima or Northstar to fit.
Chargers get a little more specific when dealing with VRLA's like the ones found in aircraft but last I looked, my bike didn't have wings.
roger 04 rt
New member
That’s true, just as there is nothing on the Odyssey site that says you can’t use a 6V charger.
Odyssey only lists approved chargers, they have no list of those that don’t fully charge their batteries.
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dieselyoda
Active member
Need to see the spreadsheet.
