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Thread: swingarm

  1. #1
    Jammess jammess's Avatar
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    swingarm

    I want to lubricate just the swingarm bearings on my R1100RS assuming they are not sealed pre-lubricated bearings. In the past I've removed the drivetrain as a complete unit to access and lubricate just the transmission input shaft splines. So, my question is can I disconnect the rear shock and support the swingarm with a block of wood then remove the swingarm pivot bolts and put a dab of wheel bearing grease on the tapered roller bearings and call it good?
    Jammess

    '93 R1100RSL, '10 FJR1300A
    MOA # 50714

  2. #2
    Left Coast Rider
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    Just an uneducated guess here but I think the short answer is "yes". Not sure why you need to disconnect the shock, though. If you left it as is and did one side at a time would that not assist in keeping the whole assembly stable? I'm assuming you're using a centre stand. As well, make sure you've got everything lined up properly upon reassembly. More experienced minds/hands should chime in.

  3. #3
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    B0000783(2).png

    Transmission to paralever #5 are sealed, don't seem to get a lot of wear. Assuming you are talking about them?

    The caged needle bearings at the FD pivot pins take more abuse and maintenance lube is more a concern.

    I do just prop the FD as you described, mainly if removing/installing a shock and often use a small floor jack instead of a block. If I am removing paralever, the bike is strapped at the front and just pull all the rear assemblies off for cleaning and inspection
    Steve Henson-Mod Team and club tire changer

    Be decisive, right or wrong.The road of life is paved with
    flat squirrels who couldn't make a decision~unknown

  4. #4
    Jammess jammess's Avatar
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    Yes, #5 is the bearing I'm referring to and I believe those bearings are just roller bearings and not tapered. I also think greasing this type of bearing is not doable so one can consider the swing arm bearings to not be a maintenance item unless wear affected after about a bazillion miles.

    Seems to me that if I remember correctly the swingarm bearing on an airhead is tapered roller and should be lubricated which is easy to do with a grease gun equipped with a needle tip. I tend to get my motorcycles mixed up probably an age related thing.
    Jammess

    '93 R1100RSL, '10 FJR1300A
    MOA # 50714

  5. #5
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Yeah the airhead swingarm is a tapered bearing. To grease it you need a conical tipped grease gun adaptor. They typically have a grease gun fitting in a recess and the conical tip is shoved into the center of the swing arm pin.

    With the swing arm pivot bearings which move so little they get pounded in one short area grease matters. But what matters even more is the correct preload when you reinstall them. GSAddict showed me a nifty tool he made for torquing them very accurately using a fish scale. Yes, a fish scale. When adjusted perfectly the typical wear issues are not a problem for a very long time indeed.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  6. #6
    Registered User GTRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by happy wanderer View Post
    Yeah the airhead swingarm is a tapered bearing. To grease it you need a conical tipped grease gun adaptor. They typically have a grease gun fitting in a recess and the conical tip is shoved into the center of the swing arm pin.
    The grease needle only works on the earlier, non-paralever swingarms that ran in oil. Those bikes had a plate behind the unsealed bearing so grease pushed through the pin was stopped by the plate then worked through the bearing and back to the outside. On the paralever models the shaft runs dry, a sealed bearing is used, and pumping grease through the pivot pin only results in a swingarm tube filled with grease.

    On the R1100 in question here, it is a sealed bearing that typically lasts just this side of forever. Not sure itís worth going into if there is no roughness present. Time and money would likely be better spent cleaning and lubing paralever bearings and driveshaft splines. I donít recall if that model uses a two-piece driveshaft like the 90s K-bikes but if it does, be sure to mark the two halves, separate/clean/lube, and reassemble in the same correctly-phased orientation. The two piece shafts can seize if allowed to rust, and while theoretically no length take-up is necessary with the paralever setup (shaft length staying the same through suspenionís range of motion), in practice those two halves seem to want to be able to move in/out.

    Best,
    DG
    DGerber
    1983 R80ST ó 1984 R80 G/S PD ó 1993 R100GS ó 2004 K1200GT w/Hannigan S/C ó 2010 K1300GT
    BMWMOA#52184, AMA#271542, IBA#138

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