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Thread: tie down points 1978 R100S

  1. #16
    John D'oh
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    How many people posting to this topic have taken a brand new /6 or /7 BMW out of its original factory crate direct from the distributer? This is important because if you had, you would never worry about drawing the forks down as far as they will go - because that’s the way they came in the crate from the factory in Germany. Tie downs on the bars too. So the factory is like “do as I say not as I do”? Not likely.
    John D'oh

  2. #17
    Registered User mlytle's Avatar
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    wherever you tie it down...use good straps!!

    do not use "cam buckle" straps. they loosen up. use ratchet straps!

    do not use straps with open hooks on the ends. they can bounce out of the rings you put them through. use carabiner style or hooks that close.

    these are a good example, they even have a built in soft tie.

    https://www.amazon.com/PowerTye-Ergo...words=powertye
    Marshall
    92 K75s
    94 K75s
    09 K1300s

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Na Cl K9 View Post
    How many people posting to this topic have taken a brand new /6 or /7 BMW out of its original factory crate direct from the distributer? This is important because if you had, you would never worry about drawing the forks down as far as they will go - because that’s the way they came in the crate from the factory in Germany. Tie downs on the bars too. So the factory is like “do as I say not as I do”? Not likely.
    And cheap straps too. I have a pile of them cadged from dealers over the years.
    '61 Clubman's Gold Star, '13 690 Duke, '13 Daytona 675R, '17 1290 GT, '18 Street Triple RS (gone but not forgotten: '76 R75/6, '84 R100, '76 R90S)

  4. #19
    Registered User toooldtocare's Avatar
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    These are my straps. I like the locking ends. https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Ca...ie+down+straps

  5. #20
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlanColes View Post
    BMW's offical documentation: https://www.ascycles.com/pdf/Tiedown2.pdf
    I can assure that is NOT BMW's official documentation. This is a procedure created by a dealer, not BMW ... and it's not a good one.

    The photo shows use of a BMW MultiTrailer WITHOUT the motorcycle wheel chock.

    I have a MultiTrailer with the official manuals and it of course specifies use of the wheel chock.

    The most relevant instruction provided by BMW is that the motorcycle suspension be completely bottomed where possible. This means you have achieved lowest center of gravity and it's also relatively obvious that if the motorcycle suspension can still compress, the motorcycle is not firmly tied down. When I tie my RT to my trailer the only motion achievable by pushing on the motorcycle is motion in the trailer suspension ... the bike might as well be a rock. Owners manuals for later bikes contain tie down instructions and for the most part specify the fully compressed suspension notion. There is frankly no valid engineering reason for wanting the bike's suspension to work while on a trailer.

    I agree it's a bit difficult to achieve best results with, for example, an Airhead RS or RT ... at least without removing some of the fairing panels around the forks. I'd also agree you can do pretty good wrapping around the lower triple clamp--if you have upside down forks, that will compress them, for conventional it will press the wheel pretty strongly to the trailer.

    As an FYI, the tiedown straps provided with the MultiTrailer are the ratchet type ... sure seems lots more safe than the friction type. Any strap best run just either side of handlebar center.
    backfromIndy.jpg
    Kent Christensen
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    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S, '84 R80G/S

  6. #21
    Dress for fall & avoid it AlanColes's Avatar
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    Kent, that documentation is under the heading of BMW Motorcycle Aftersales Group, which I understand to be part of BMW Group. I would not think such a well known and official BMW Dealership like A&S Cycles would distribute counterfeit material.

    As for, what is the correct way to tow, I'd suggest that we aren't far off oil thread territory. Having said that, I will continue to tow using the method that has worked best for me and makes the most sense to me.

    I would take issue with the contention that there is "no valid engineering reason". However, I'm travelling on holidays for the next while and don't want to start down that long road. I just suggest that you look at any commercial car hauler (they move thousands of cars, thousands of miles every day). What you'll notice is that they - do not - compress the suspension.
    Regards, Alan - President BMWONS - MOA Charter Club #097, BMWMOA/BMWRA/BMWONS/Airheads
    Current: '14 R1200RT / '06 Ducati ST3s / '91 R100GS / '86 R80RT / '75 R90S / '73 850 & '70 750 Commando Prev: '04 R1150RT / '81 Honda GL1100 / '77 Suzuki GS750 / '73 Norton 850 Commando

  7. #22
    I don't know what BMW's motorcycle trailer weighs without a bike on it, but my "let the bike bounce" preference might change if I was using one of those. Having 600lbs. of motorcycle moving up and down on a lighter trailer seems like a different situation than having the same weight bouncing a bit, but firmly connected to a 4000 lb. truck.

    Interestingly, though, the Telever suspension on that R1200C depicted in the trailer-specific instruction Alan links to is not being substantially compressed by their recommended tiedown procedure, even though, at Paragraph 4 of their procedure, they say:

    4. To tighten the straps, the person sitting
    on the motorcycle pushes the bike to the
    right while the other person tightens the
    right strap. Then the person on the
    motorcycle pushes the bike to the left
    while the other tightens the left strap.
    Repeat the procedure until the front suspension
    is compressed and the straps
    remain tight even when the motorcycle is
    pushed firmly from side to side.
    Check, to
    ensure that the motorcycle is vertical and
    that the front tire is still pointing straight
    ahead and that it is firmly against the
    wheel chock.
    Last edited by khittner; 12-12-2018 at 03:00 PM.

  8. #23
    The real answer is that either method works if done properly. Anybody who ties an R1100RS by its aluminum bars with soon have a horizontal motorcycle and at least one broken handlebar. With a naked K75 either approach works. With my dirt bikes I tie to the handlebars.

    There is nothing wrong with compressing the forks for a while, and there is equally nothing wrong with strapping just the wheel and fork sliders and allowing the bike to float on its own suspension. In any case at the front the wider you can spread the bottom ends of the tie downs the better. In either case at the front, at the rear I just strap the wheel/tire to the trailer so it can't move sideways.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  9. #24
    Registered User
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    Tie down

    +1 on securing wheels so they won’t slide sideways
    Hauling a bike in an enclosed trailer you can be less picky about tie down straps, in my experience straps flapping in the wind seem loosen much quicker on open trailer I have and will use cam lock straps but after I tighten them I use several wraps of good electrical tape to help lock straps in place. ( on open trailer, enclosed trailer no tape )

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