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Looking for help - Accessory Power 2017 R1200RT

wheelsthatgrip

New member
Hello All,

I recently purchased a 2017 R1200RT. This is my first CAN bus bike and I am clueless as to how I will setup accessory power for my Autocom system (I know, I'm a dinosaur that does not care for bluetooth headsets) I have the Navigator VI and plan to interface it with my Autocom SPA system which I have a Autocom Bluetooth module.

Can anyone provide direction on were I might find connectors on the bike and what accessories I might need? I do not wish to splice/pierce/cut the bikes stock wiring if it not necessary.

Thanks for reading my post and appreciate any advice you might offer.

Regards,

Keith
 
I have set up my 2016 RT with a hard wired Starcom1 Digital, so I faced similar problems. Here are three options for picking up power.....

1. Plug into the accessroy power point on the rear left side beside the pillion seat. This is the simplest solution.
2. Take power direct from the battery, as I think that plugging in the rider's helmet turns the Autocom on and off
3. Install a CanSmart Coltroller https://denalielectronics.com/cansmart-controller and you can tap into four power outlets for whatever you want to install. I have gone down this path and my CanSmart controlls my spotties and powers my Starcom.
 
I have set up my 2016 RT with a hard wired Starcom1 Digital, so I faced similar problems. Here are three options for picking up power.....

1. Plug into the accessroy power point on the rear left side beside the pillion seat. This is the simplest solution.
2. Take power direct from the battery, as I think that plugging in the rider's helmet turns the Autocom on and off
3. Install a CanSmart Coltroller https://denalielectronics.com/cansmart-controller and you can tap into four power outlets for whatever you want to install. I have gone down this path and my CanSmart controlls my spotties and powers my Starcom.

No offence Pete, however
1. Accessory plug will trip if too much power is sourced. If you want to run the Autocom and nothing else you may get away with it, however you will still need to cut into the wiring.
2. Direct to battery is the best -Mandatory add a fuse and preferably a fuse block (best location - left front wing). Remember negative to battery as well.
3. CanSmart - Expensive as far as I'm concerned ($250 + Postage) and has limited use for accessories - Max of 4.

Regards,
A.
 
No offence Pete, however
1. Accessory plug will trip if too much power is sourced. If you want to run the Autocom and nothing else you may get away with it, however you will still need to cut into the wiring.
2. Direct to battery is the best -Mandatory add a fuse and preferably a fuse block (best location - left front wing). Remember negative to battery as well.
3. CanSmart - Expensive as far as I'm concerned ($250 + Postage) and has limited use for accessories - Max of 4.

Regards,
A.

Hi Totgas. I agree that the CanSmart is a bit pricey, but it does a great job and avoids problems with the CanBus system, while giving extra switched power outlets. I used the CanSmart "Brake Circut" output to power my Starcom which is fused at 2A, and the Cansmart CanSmart "Brake Circut" is rated to 2A so that worked out well. The Accessory Plug under the rear seat drops out at 10A so I reckon there is plenty of power there for an Autocom. It would be an option to plug an accessory plug inot the socket to power the Autocom and route the cable back under the seat and is probably the simplest way to power a device, but not the neatest. I agree that direct to the battery is best.
 
Hi Totgas. I agree that the CanSmart is a bit pricey, but it does a great job and avoids problems with the CanBus system, while giving extra switched power outlets. I used the CanSmart "Brake Circut" output to power my Starcom which is fused at 2A, and the Cansmart CanSmart "Brake Circut" is rated to 2A so that worked out well. The Accessory Plug under the rear seat drops out at 10A so I reckon there is plenty of power there for an Autocom. It would be an option to plug an accessory plug inot the socket to power the Autocom and route the cable back under the seat and is probably the simplest way to power a device, but not the neatest. I agree that direct to the battery is best.

I purchased the HEX EzCAN power accessory on Amazon for $169....works great for aux LED spotlights, louder horn and auxiliary breaking lights on my Givi Topbox
 
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Fuzeblock

I realize this response is way after the original post, but may help for someone just checking this thread. I used a Fuzeblock FZ-1 that costs around $90. Note the spelling of this, it’s a brand name. Check it out at www.fuzeblock.com. It has 6 fused outputs. Depending on where you place the fuse inside, the output is either constant or switched with the key. There is a wire that goes to the internal relay that turns on the switched power with the key. The rear accessory outlet can be used to turn on the relay since it is switched. The power to the fuzeblock gets wired to the + and - of the battery. Be sure to fuse the + wire from the battery. The Fuzeblock makes connecting accessories a breeze.
 
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