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Bleeding ABS Brake System on a 2003 R1150rt-p

CNRed

New member
Has anyone blead the brake system on their R1150RT.
I've looked around on the net but seem to be coming up short of finding any tourorials for these servo-systems.
I've found a couple of Youtube videos for R1200's, and I have blead the system on R1200gs I owned several years ago. The ABS system on this R1150rt seems diffrent. Any brave souls out there, or an I making more of this then need be.
 
Has anyone blead the brake system on their R1150RT.
I've looked around on the net but seem to be coming up short of finding any tourorials for these servo-systems.
I've found a couple of Youtube videos for R1200's, and I have blead the system on R1200gs I owned several years ago. The ABS system on this R1150rt seems diffrent. Any brave souls out there, or an I making more of this then need be.

Welcome to the MOA Forum!

I think that year has the iABS or integral ABS brake system so you're going to need the special funnel to do the bleeding job properly. Here's a link to a good write up on the procedure that you can download.

http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/service_abs3.pdf

There are also lots of threads on bleeding the ABS brakes in this forum that make for good background reading and also to see what problems others have had so you can avoid them. Just use the search engine to find them.

Also, if your RTP still has the original black rubber brake lines you should replace them before you bleed the system. If you still have those on the bike ABS disaster is coming soon to a theater near you! :uhoh
 
Wanderer,
Thanks so much.
I have the tools from working on my R1200gs. It looks like the procedure is similar. Thank you for the site with the instructions. I am quite fortunate in that the bike already has stainless lines installed. The bike is new to me and I am in the process of sorting things to my liking. At this point, I'm in the process of replacing the fuel filter, air filter, oil and oil filter. While the tank is off I wanted to bleed the brake system. Omce the tank is back on i believe I'll sinc the throttle bodies and put it back together.
Again thanks for your help, if there is anything else you might think I need to address bring it on!!
 
I would suggest reading a few more threads here about iABS bleeding on 1150s. There is some good info. For starters you should read this thread which is very recent and has some good info on sequence and some pitfalls that might come up. https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?93003-How-do-I-know-if-my-ABS-module-is-dead

Also, make sure you set your valves before you do a throttle body synch just to be sure they are spot on. I've learned that the more time spent getting the valves as perfect as you can pays big dividends after the throttle body synch is done. It is highly recommended you use two intake and two exhaust feeler gauges at the same time which sounds strange but it helps you get the settings just right. It is more important that both valve be the same than it is for them to be exactly at the right gap. It's all about side to side balance when it comes to these 4 valve high compression motors. So both intake and exhaust valves on both sides as dead even as you can get them is the goal here. Going back and doing them twice on each side is how I get there. Sometimes I get lucky and don't have to change a thing the second pass but I do it anyway. After you have tuned the bike a bunch of time you will find the valves cease to move around much anymore if at all. And also, you get better at it. :thumb

Not sure where you are located as your profile is empty but you should consider finding a local tech day or the local BMW club and attend a meeting or gathering. You will find BMW owners are usually more than willing to help new owners learn how to wrench their own bikes and help them in doing so.
 
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