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R1150RT Spiegler Brake Line Install Tips?

tangoalpha

tangoalpha

Member
Hi Guys.

You may recall in a recent post where I mentioned ordering a set of fully sintered brake pads and a set of Spiegler SS braided brake hoses for my ‘02 R1150RT. Well the pads and the brake lines have arrived. Before I start wrenching, what I’d like to know is whether any of you have any tips or advice on how best to replace the brake lines on my bike to minimize air getting in to the ABS system. As you might remember my bike has the servo assisted ABS braking system. Aka...whizzy brakes.

After installing the brake lines & pads I will bleed the system. I researched the procedures & have the funnel which screws on the the front/rear brake circuit. Any input from those of you who have done this procedure before a whizzy brake equipped bike would be greatly appreciated.


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GSAddict said:
Have you read this? It covers the subject well especially the control bleed sequence.
https://advrider.com/f/resources/abs-3-service-v2-0.7/

I do the control circuits first, then the power.
Have some old terry towel rags moistened with water to contain/wipe up spills.
Click to expand...

GSA,

Thanks for the tips and the article. I clicked on the link and it appears the website server couldn’t be found. I’ll try it again later. I appreciate your help very much.


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tangoalpha said:
GSA,

Thanks for the tips and the article. I clicked on the link and it appears the website server couldn’t be found. I’ll try it again later. I appreciate your help very much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

It works now, just checked it.
 
I just performed this on an 04. I had the dvd, the bmw maintenance doc and the above mentioned pdf. I had some issues getting dummy blocks that would work and had to fiddle with different size wood that I had. Be careful with the funnel and do not over tighten. I believe your module is different than mine, but be careful with any connectors you disconnect, etc. I disconnected one of the fluid level connectors and bent/broke the pin when re-inserting. I did not have to remove the connector for the work, but did so to cleanup fluid spillage. The brake lines themselves are relatively straightforward to replace, just take a look at the originals routing and angles and align the new with that. I got speed bleeders but never used them as i could access each of the levers and bleed at the same time. It was not overly complex, just takes time and have to methodically follow the bleeding sequence.

good luck,
-tp
 
tpmcleod24 said:
I just performed this on an 04. I had the dvd, the bmw maintenance doc and the above mentioned pdf. I had some issues getting dummy blocks that would work and had to fiddle with different size wood that I had. Be careful with the funnel and do not over tighten. I believe your module is different than mine, but be careful with any connectors you disconnect, etc. I disconnected one of the fluid level connectors and bent/broke the pin when re-inserting. I did not have to remove the connector for the work, but did so to cleanup fluid spillage. The brake lines themselves are relatively straightforward to replace, just take a look at the originals routing and angles and align the new with that. I got speed bleeders but never used them as i could access each of the levers and bleed at the same time. It was not overly complex, just takes time and have to methodically follow the bleeding sequence.

good luck,
-tp
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips and for the comment about the Speedbleeders. Much appreciated. I was nearly convinced that I needed to buy a set before attempting this. Not gonna lie to you, I'm really not looking forward to doing this project but it must be done. So I'm gathering all my information, resources, tools and materials before jumping in. I will go s-l-o-w-l-y and methodically, following all the steps, as you suggest being careful not to over tighten, bend or break anything. Hopefully it all turns out okay, despite my apprehension. Fingers crossed!
 
tangoalpha said:
Thanks for the tips and for the comment about the Speedbleeders. Much appreciated. I was nearly convinced that I needed to buy a set before attempting this. Not gonna lie to you, I'm really not looking forward to doing this project but it must be done. So I'm gathering all my information, resources, tools and materials before jumping in. I will go s-l-o-w-l-y and methodically, following all the steps, as you suggest being careful not to over tighten, bend or break anything. Hopefully it all turns out okay, despite my apprehension. Fingers crossed!
Click to expand...

Curious how it went. I have a 2004 R1150RT and this is next up on my list.
 
update

Just had the high pressure in rear circuit come on again. Oh well, guess i'll be looking at module replacement...
 
194831 said:
Curious how it went. I have a 2004 R1150RT and this is next up on my list.
Click to expand...

Well...I must say it was an absolute pain in the butt, however it was worth the effort. My bike has the whizzy brakes so that added to aggravation factor also. I highly encourage you to watch a couple videos before doing it and make sure that you buy the screw on funnel for the ABS module to pour the brake fluid in to. I bought mine from Beemer Boneyard. They also have a video which is available on DVD which shows the steps of bleeding the brakes.

As far as Spiegler brake hoses are concerned, they are excellent quality and to be honest, I couldn’t see myself spending my money on anything else. Well worth the money in my opinion and it gives me peace of mind.

I can’t tell you that I personally noticed much of a difference between the Spiegler braided hoses versus the factory rubber lines, but then again my bike has the power assisted braking anyway, so the servos always ensure I have plenty of hydraulic pressure. I’m one of the few people who actually like that whizzy brakes. They’re touchy, but once you get used to them you get somewhat spoiled. Ever had to stop and hold your bike, fully loaded on a steep uphill...like in San Francisco? I have! The whizzy brakes are marvelous! I love them for that reason alone. That said they’re a pain in the butt to service.

Oh...I forgot to mention I also swapped out all the brake pads for a set of Brembo fully sintered pads. My bike runs and STOPS great! Let me know how your brake job turns out.


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tangoalpha said:
Ever had to stop and hold your bike, fully loaded on a steep uphill...like in San Francisco? I have! The whizzy brakes are marvelous! I love them for that reason alone. /QUOTE]

Just make sure you NEVER turn the bike off while stopped on a hill. Like if you unexpectedly find yourself in a construction zone, stopped on a middling steep hill, and its 100+F and the flagperson tells you its going to be a 15 minute wait. DAMHIK....
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
rogerc60 said:
If you use the kill switch rather than the key the power to the whizzy brakes will stay on, right?
Click to expand...

Yes, the whizzy brakes will remain on and you can hear them because they whine whenever brake pressure is applied, however you’d be running off your battery which if stopped for a long period may not be a good thing.


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