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Thread: 2003 K1200GT - What glue to repair tabs?

  1. #1
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    2003 K1200GT - What glue to repair tabs?

    Ouch. My bike fell over in the grass and cracked two screw hole tabs on the left wind wing. In the picture, the white marks are a reflection. But that is the left wing I am talking about.

    The tabs do not actually support much weight or structure. The other 2 screws hold the wing in place but it will vibrate.

    I am reading the plastic panels is ABS material and ABS glue might weld the tabs back. Others use some type of Epoxy. Any glue brand or techniques to repair these?

    I am thinking of adding a metal L shape glued to the inner side panel as extra support to the original crack line.

    I prefer to repair instead of replace the part at this point. Buying a new panel sends me to the paint shop for a bigger expense. It wonít be the last time I bump into something or scratch it up more. I am not ready yet for repainting my other scratches yet.

    Thanks for your ideas.
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  2. #2
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    This might work

    You're right, ABS is the material. I've had some success repairing cracks with a Dremel tool and ABS cement (from the plumbing department at the local home improvement store). I used a conical grinder bit in the Dremel and found it acts to heat weld the crack. I ground a bit less than halfway through from each side of the panel, then used the ABS cement to fill each groove. Seems to be holding so far, used for one riding season.

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    Looks like MEK Methyl Ethyl Ketone melts the material. Maybe I can just make a triangle blob of abs material instead of a metal L piece to gain support for the tabs that broke off. They broke off at 90 degree angle.

    Pictures of various ABS glues I found. Maybe the Oakey material or straight MEK Methyl Ethyl Ketone is the preferred.

    Thanks for your thoughts.

  4. #4
    Registered User drneo66's Avatar
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    I'll put in a huge vote for Plastifix - this is a two part system. One part is a powder and the other is a liquid. Mixing the two creates some of the hardest plastic repair that I've come across. You can even coat a bolt/screw in a light oil spray, and use Plastifix to create/repair threads (in plastic).
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    Thanks for the PlasticFix suggestion. I found these products at Home Depo and Lowes. MEK substitute. I guess MEK is a controlled substance in our area. Some Oatey cleaner and ABS glue. The glue has MEK in the ingredients too.

    One plastic search suggested Legos as a good ABS plastic to use as support instead of a metal L bracket. It is getting cold up here and slow down my progress. Appears I have all the materials to give it a shot.

    Thanks for the assistance.
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  6. #6
    Registered User jandhumphreyme's Avatar
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    Here's some good information on plastic body part repair, some good video as well.

    https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/collisio...lastic-repair/
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    Have a peek at the products from West System- https://www.westsystem.com/plastic-boat-repair-kit/

    I usually make a bit of a "spline" or a "dowel" X2 to improve contact area and support. Sort of like a biscuit for a wood glue joint.
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  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by drneo66 View Post
    I'll put in a huge vote for Plastifix - this is a two part system. One part is a powder and the other is a liquid. Mixing the two creates some of the hardest plastic repair that I've come across. You can even coat a bolt/screw in a light oil spray, and use Plastifix to create/repair threads (in plastic).
    I have used Plastifix. It creates ABS plastic. It works well.
    Also there is another good ABS fixer made Urethane Supply Company.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/URETHANE-SU...2nZo:rk:2:pf:0

    The Urethane Supply kits come with a moldable bar to make molds of broken parts. Boil water, drop in the bar. It's now pliable. Wrap it around the part you want to make a mold for. Then you can place it and fill it with ABS.

    Both these products don't simply glue ABS to ABS. They are ABS.

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    I will dig deeper into the suggestions. Today I found a small part in lawn (where my bike tipped over) for tab2 broken in half. Good find and avoided me using a filler. See picture.

    My experience has been that this BMW plastic is hard stuff. Doesn't melt like I hoped using substitute DEK from HomeDepo.

    I also found some pure DEK of Testors. Small bottle at Hobby Lobby that I used on plastic model cars. The Pure DEK Testor did slightly melt the BMW plastic, so I am encouraged but not that great. I am doing the practice repairs indoors at 70 degree temp.

    The Substitute DEK did melt Lego parts quickly in a jar. I was planning on use the gummy lego sticks as support. Wear some Nitrile gloves to press the wilting goo in the 90 degree angle joint. I will probably find out that my gloves melt better than the BMW plastic.

    I repaired the tab2 so far with Oatey Red can which has some DEK in it. This is a yellow gooey glue. It has good initial sticking power. I used an Oatey cleaner before hand. In a day or two, I will test the strength.

    The PlasticFix videos seems like a good to try. The video I saw shows creating a V on both sides. One at a time fill the V, wait for drying and repeat on the other side. In my case, I have an L shape to attach. In the corner of the L, I can see the PlasticFix fill in that area for support but not much room on the top for a V cut. A little different problem than the movie of a straight crack in the middle of the panel.

    More later. I appreciate the comments and advise.
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    Quote Originally Posted by guaire View Post
    I have used Plastifix. It creates ABS plastic. It works well.
    Also there is another good ABS fixer made Urethane Supply Company.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/URETHANE-SU...2nZo:rk:2:pf:0

    The Urethane Supply kits come with a moldable bar to make molds of broken parts. Boil water, drop in the bar. It's now pliable. Wrap it around the part you want to make a mold for. Then you can place it and fill it with ABS.

    Both these products don't simply glue ABS to ABS. They are ABS.

    Thanks, I ordered this Plastifix kit. Worth trying for this and future mishaps. Regards John

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrmull View Post
    I will dig deeper into the suggestions. Today I found a small part in lawn (where my bike tipped over) for tab2 broken in half. Good find and avoided me using a filler. See picture.

    My experience has been that this BMW plastic is hard stuff. Doesn't melt like I hoped using substitute DEK from HomeDepo.
    ...
    .....

    More later. I appreciate the comments and advise.

    For all plastics on Car or Motorcycle made in Germany, the type of plastic it is made of, is identified in abbreviated text on the inside of each part. In the case of all K1200 and also Boxers of the same era (1996-2005), the inside fairing parts identification says "PBT + PC". Always look for the letters between > < (see attached photo).

    It is not ABS. Plain ABS has poor low temperature characteristics.... it is too brittle when cold.

    if you want to get a bit more technical with details to research the perfect fix, a quote about this from one expert on another "K series" forum:
    "PBT + PC alloy is a mixture of Polybutylene Terephthalate and Polycarbonate resins. "

    "This stuff has excellent low temperature strength. It has nothing to do with ABS (Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene). It also cannot be glued using ABS glue, or heat-formed in the same way ABS can."

    "Xenoy is a trademark for GE's line of PBT-ABS resins. Makroblend is Bayer's trademark for their SIMILAR family of PBT-PC and PET-PC resins. (PET is Polyethylene Terephthalate). PBT and PET have similar characteristics."


    Fairing_LEFT-Inside-MARKING.jpg
    JEAN
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    Current: K1200RS (2002) with 96,000 miles (155,000 KM)

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    Jean, thanks for the clarifications. What glue do you suggest to repair? I am not seeing anything that can melt it or glue it. Just patch around it, like I am doing.

    Funny but I saw today those PBT+PC on the back of my cowl. Also explains the results I am getting using pure DEK, DEK Resin, and the oatey glue.

    As for my progress, I created Goo (someone else idea youtube also). I placed 5 or 6 Lego parts into a pickle size jar. 1/4 inch of DEK synthetic. It soaked sealed in the jar for 3 days. DEK really attacked the legos and melted it into a thick paste. I use black and blues. Fun to play with.

    This goo was really effective. I was giving myself high 5s until Jean tells me the BMW fairing is not ABS. Bummed now.

    Anyway, pure DEK didnít do much. I used the Oatey cleaner and then glue to position the broken tabs. It leaves a yellow overflow which I later trimmed flush. Almost works. Does hold some. Enough to start building the base thicker. See pictures.

    I followed up on one of the tabs, the ABS homemade goo. This is working well. I have some grinding to pretty it up.

    I did not try Welder Plastic epoxy. Epoxy is ok but I know it's traits.

    My $35 PlastiFix kit cam in the mail today, so I will try it on the other Tab for experience. This is far more expensive that I normally would try, but worth the education.

    Why do all this? I will be working on another oops, someday.

    Love this K1200GT. Outstanding bike for handling, power and looks.
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    Got me a headache now. Make sure well ventilated area for Plastifix. I used product 2503 black powder. The videoís provided are almost ok as an overview and strategy. Scuff up the edge. V shape one side, glue and V shape the backside. I was sticking my head over the repair part to see up close the detail.

    What is missing is usage of various parts provided. Open the box and it took me a while to figure the parts. There is an eye-drop tool to suck out the brown bottle liquid into the needle adaptor, I assume. The powder goes into the smaller container that has a cap fastened to it.

    The video shows how to use the needle to create drops of power to transfer on the repair part. Then extra squirt from the needle to release and smooth out the part. Nice to know. Very slow prcess though. Another video shows you can place the liquid on the crack and shake the powder on top. Multiple layers but this method much easier and better than doing tear drops portions. Go to their website for these video references.

    Lots of black powder and liquid available for my two tabs, front and back. Probably enough for 3 foot long area should you have a long crack.

    Other provided items was a waxy molding square to press on an existing area creating a negative/reverse image. Use the wax-like molde to cast a new part. I didnít use that part, but a good idea for later. I have enough product left over for future use.

    Advisors drneo66 and guaire get the gold star on best advice pointing me to PlastiFix.

    I order of success, I would place PlastiFix ($35), then JB Plastic Weld ($6), DEK Legos goo ($7), and finally Oatey ABS Cement ($5). Too bad PlastiFix is so expensive.

    Time to ride again.

  14. #14
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    samples of completed tab1 and tab2. The PlasticFix leaves a smooth finish. It gets lumpy doing the ball inserts as seen in tab2 backside. Doing the sprinkle dusting makes is smooth.

    Regards to all
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  15. #15
    I used the Oatey ABS glue to set the two broken tabs on a side cover on a new to me 2004 Kawasaki EX250. The Oatey ABS held in use, but the tabs broke again. There wasn't enough structural bracing to keep them from breaking again. After I re glued with the Oatey ABS glue, as shown in the previous post. I broke out the Sugru packs and braced the tabs against bending.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RoTlG1D-T58
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