Idle Switch error message, TPS calibration using a GS-911

Before I reach out to the GS-911 manufacturer, does anyone know what this means? I wasn't aware of an "idle switch" on this bike. I am attempting to recalibrate the Throttle Position Sensor on my son's 2004 R1150RS. The throttle bodies were rebuilt (which required the removal of the TPS), along with all of the throttle cables. When doing the procedure, ignition is ON, side stand UP, and kill switch ON. I've loosened the screws on the TPS and experimented with different positions, and loosened the cables up so that the butterflies are definitely hitting the stops. No joy!

Roger has quite the discussion of the TPS and mentions the idle switch in this thread:

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?73962-TPS-Alignment-Idle-Speed-Adjustment-Beyond-Zero-Zero

Another mention of the switch here:

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?57043-GS-911-Fault-Codes-(2002-R1200C)

Thanks for the info. I'll do some of those prerequisites on the list and see if that will resolve the problem.

Are they talking about the fast idle warmup switch on the handlebar?

No, the TPS is bolted directly on to the left throttle body.
Interesting thought, though - if he replaced all of his cables, the Fast Idle cable may not be adjusted properly, but that shouldn't inhibit the TPS adjustment unless it's waaay off.

I finally got the opportunity to fiddle with it some more this weekend. I skimmed through Roger's procedure that Kurt was kind enough to provide, and between the GS-911 and the laptop it was plugged into, I was able to get the page up that shows the graph, which indicated that the TPS was way off. It amazes me how much little movement it takes to bring it into the green. After I got that straight, I buttoned it back up, did a "rough" cable adjustment, and set the bleed air screws out 1.5 turns each. I then took the bike out for a ride and it ran well with no noticeable hesitation or excessive vibration. After that, however, I set up some fans and then hooked up my Twinmax to see how balanced it was. There, I ran into an issue that I will again have to wait for the weekend to address. Although I was able to get the idle within the proper RPM range, the needle would not go to center, even as I tweaked the bleed air screws. The needle had a tendency to fluctuate between 2 and 3 on the left cylinder. When bringing the bike up to about 3,000 rpm, the needle would then have a tendency to move to center. The enricher lever seems to be adjusted properly, because the idle steps up about 2,000 rpm when I use it, and then back to idle when I move it back. Also, using a mirror, I verified that with the throttle closed, both of the TBs were contacting the factory-set stop screws (I did not mess with these, just the TPS because of the rebuilds on the installation of the throttle body rebuild kit). When rebuilding these things, there are no real measurements when it comes to installing the butterfly valves. That being said, as I was starting to tighten them to the new shafts, I shone a flashlight up from the back to check for excessive daylight around the butterflies. I noted nothing out of the ordinary there. The bleed air screws are clean, and the TBs were cleaned upon reassembly, etc. I think that I will go back through Roger's post again (note that I said "skimmed", which is probably part of the problem!) and try from the beginning again to see if I can get a better outcome this time around. I'm not new to the "sync" game; I've done it on this bike every 6,000 miles for the last 128,000. Just never had the pleasure of messing with it after a TPS alignment and brand new cables.

I presume you switched the Twinmax vacuum lines to eliminate it as the culprit..... And fresh batteries too. BTDT - will drive you nuts.

New battery, yes. I hadn't thought about switching the lines. I'll give it a shot, thanks.