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2017 1200 rt headlight
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exgman
Active member
There have been a few threads on this over the years. To summarize some of the comments, get an H7 bulb, sit in a chair in front of the bike, reach up behind the headlight, remove the cover, pull off the electrical socket, loosen the little wire bails, and pull the bulb out. Replacing it is the interesting part, especially getting the little wire bails to hook in the right places and making sure the bulb is seated correctly.
I have done the job twice, and found that getting the horn out of the way makes it a lot easier. Others don't think this is important.
I used my iPhone to take a photo of the bulb in the socket with the wire bails in place. I found that this makes it easier to visualize the job as you do it. The first time I replaced the bulb it took about 1/2 hour. The second time was 15 minutes. Patience is your friend.
If you do break the wire bail or retaining clip, BeemerBoneyard has a replacement for you. See it here: https://www.beemerboneyard.com/r12h7bulbclip.html
I have done the job twice, and found that getting the horn out of the way makes it a lot easier. Others don't think this is important.
I used my iPhone to take a photo of the bulb in the socket with the wire bails in place. I found that this makes it easier to visualize the job as you do it. The first time I replaced the bulb it took about 1/2 hour. The second time was 15 minutes. Patience is your friend.
If you do break the wire bail or retaining clip, BeemerBoneyard has a replacement for you. See it here: https://www.beemerboneyard.com/r12h7bulbclip.html
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bullet
aka Johnny Hammerlane
ncpbmw1953
Member
As John G says be patient and understand how the retention clips work and it helps to see a photo of them. I've done two changes as well and I'm fairly sure the photo below is accurate as to where to apply finger pressure in the correct direction to move the clips correct to dislodge them from their holds. The first one comes out easily but the opposite side can be very stubborn. The first time took me probably 45min, the 2nd 12min or so, so it's very doable once you understand where to apply pressure and in what direction on the remaining clip. It helps to have smaller hands in fact I can get a few fingers from BOTH hands simultaneously which helps at times in the procedure. The 'inwards' in this text means towards the base plate, then laterally. I keep a golf glove in my tool kit which works great as it's very thin leather and offers good feel and protects the fingers and finger tips. I think if you're careful and understand how the clips work you won't be at risk to break one.
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exgman
Active member
Wow! That photo is a lot better than the one I made! That alone makes the whole thing easier.
PS - One important part: don't touch the glass of the bulb with your bare fingers. This will contribute to the early demise of the bulb. I use nitrile gloves to make sure that doesn't happen. Also, when I bought the bulb, the auto parts store gave me some "bulb grease" to use on the electrical connection. I used it, but don't know if its important. I seem to change the bulb once a year.
bullet
aka Johnny Hammerlane
Success!
After a few days at work and finally getting the opportunity to get to the task, it took about 20 minutes to swap in the new H7 bulb. Having some experience with the similar set-up on a 2010 RT, I found it much easier to remove the horn first before getting to the bulb. It's still fidgety but with the horn out of the way,
a lot easier to feel my way around the connector, spring clip, bulb etc. A drop of blue Loctite should insure the horn stays where it's supposed to be. One thing I noticed that also helped ease the job was that the spring clip stayed up and out of the way while swapping the bulb. Very thankful for that.
Thanks everyone for the replies. It helped a lot. Now it's time to take the bike out for a ride!
After a few days at work and finally getting the opportunity to get to the task, it took about 20 minutes to swap in the new H7 bulb. Having some experience with the similar set-up on a 2010 RT, I found it much easier to remove the horn first before getting to the bulb. It's still fidgety but with the horn out of the way,
a lot easier to feel my way around the connector, spring clip, bulb etc. A drop of blue Loctite should insure the horn stays where it's supposed to be. One thing I noticed that also helped ease the job was that the spring clip stayed up and out of the way while swapping the bulb. Very thankful for that.
Thanks everyone for the replies. It helped a lot. Now it's time to take the bike out for a ride!
ncpbmw1953
Member
Some take the headlight assembly out and then can do it with ease. What I'd love to see is someone doing this do a nice close up video of those clips to demonstrate exactly how they are released which would really be the most help of all for newcomers to the normally blind procedure.
littlebriar
Member
Some folks find that using a wood dowel to push the retaining clips works for them.
pglaves
#13338
I feel your pain. But BMW has used this type of clip mount since almost forever it seems. The wire on each side is in a hook shaped notch facing away from the center. The wire needs to be pressed forward toward the front of the bike, then away from the center of the bike. It will then unhook. It will then spring outward away from the center. The trick is to get both sides unhooked. Then pivot the clip(s) away from the bulb.
Note: On some setups the hooks face toward the center of the bike - not away from it. If so which way you move the wire is reversed.
ncpbmw1953
Member
No pain here I figured it out (it's in the text box by the photo) but for those not familiar it would be most helpful to see a video of it at point blank range from someone who went thru the hassle to remove the headlamp assembly...hint hint....
mikegalbicka
Back in the saddle again
I could do that, if only I could remember to. Here’s hoping!
dlong
New member
Not a video but very helpful information here: https://www.bmwlt.com/forums/rt-series/180787-rt-lc-headlight-assembly-removal.html
mikegalbicka
Back in the saddle again
I posted the videos on this thread. Hope they help someone doing this for the first time.
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthrea...lip-removal-and-locking&p=1149979#post1149979
ncpbmw1953
Member
Nice, I that looks pretty much the same as on my '16 but I swear I had to push inward on the bowed up section then move laterally to release, but not certain, so thanks this helps!
