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1994 R100RT fork spring replace
- Thread starter flaboy58
- Start date
Are you wondering about #2 in this diagram?
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0469-USA-03-1994-2478-BMW-R_100_RT&diagId=31_0371
The nut should be 41mm and is typically thin so there's not much to grab on to. The "tool" to get this off is a 41mm socket, preferably a 6-sided one, with the leading edge milled down. The milling gets rid of the inside chamfer of the socket so it can have full engagement on the nut.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0469-USA-03-1994-2478-BMW-R_100_RT&diagId=31_0371
The nut should be 41mm and is typically thin so there's not much to grab on to. The "tool" to get this off is a 41mm socket, preferably a 6-sided one, with the leading edge milled down. The milling gets rid of the inside chamfer of the socket so it can have full engagement on the nut.
jagarra
Gerard
Here is a reasonably priced socket in 1/2" drive. When you get up to this size socket the drives get bigger like 3/4" and 1.0" which may require you to buy an adapter.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genius-Too...ocket-423841/323103304670?hash=item4b3a752bde
Now this one looks better, could fit under handlebars, but a little more $$
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SCHLEY-PRO...775218&hash=item3b11047a47:g:ProAAOSwfshbIj~g
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genius-Too...ocket-423841/323103304670?hash=item4b3a752bde
Now this one looks better, could fit under handlebars, but a little more $$
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SCHLEY-PRO...775218&hash=item3b11047a47:g:ProAAOSwfshbIj~g
I am looking at #7 on the diagram. It is the spring retainer.
Thank you for all of the information.
I don't find a whole lot written about it in my Haynes. But from the diagrams that we've shown, it appears that nut #2 threads onto the top part of #7 and sandwiches the upper fork between the nut and the flanges of #7. There's an o-ring (#8) that probably fits into the bottom groove on #7. From the diagrams, it just appears that #7 lifts out, working against the fit of the o-ring. Probably on the underside of #7, it's hollowed out enough to accept the spring that fits inside. I guess that's why it's called a spring retainer.
Never been inside one of these later forks, but that's what it looks like from the diagrams.
Never been inside one of these later forks, but that's what it looks like from the diagrams.
Thank you for your help. I’ll give it a try tomorrow and let you know the outcome.
beemerphile
New member
Nope, it is more tedious than that. The enemy is part #6 - the snap ring. There is nothing to grip and compress it with like a normal snap ring with a couple of eyelets in it for a snap ring tool. Nope, with this one, you have to try to get a pick or a small screwdriver started behind it and force it out of the groove. Working against you is the spring pressure acting on part #7 spring retainer. The "solution" I found was to press down on #7 with a nut driver to free up the snap ring to be more easily pried out of its groove with your third hand.
Seriously, some help is beneficial. There was one airhead model that had a similar devilish snap ring holding the wrist pins in. I think it was the 1977 R100RS. Others had more typical snap rings as this should have.
Seriously, some help is beneficial. There was one airhead model that had a similar devilish snap ring holding the wrist pins in. I think it was the 1977 R100RS. Others had more typical snap rings as this should have.
beemerphile
New member
It is. Oak used to talk about the infamous BMW "Verschlimbesserungs", or "improvements" that made things worse. This was one in my mind. The Brembo style forks from the twin shock era were of a reasonable design (though they did not function as well as the ATE style forks they replaced). But with the monos, they decided to take the Crazy Train. The mono Brembos retained the lower performance of the early Brembo design but made them frustrating to disassemble. Assembly is easy.
I usu. replace the internals with RaceTech Gold Valves to make them function acceptably. That would make a good add while someone had them apart for service. The Gold Valves work best in conjunction with RaceTech single rate springs (instead of progressives).
lkchris
Active member
In actuality, they simply used K-bike parts.
that pesky c clip at top of fork spring retainer
Hate this clip. Don't mind saying. Tho one "improvement" on pressing #7 retainer down to better access the clip. Yes, we can press it down easily enough, but definitely need both hands dedicated to clip. Get a hold of a ratcheting hold-down (Canoe roof hold-down works well) with large enough hook with no edges, just rounded enough at one end to not damage #7. Place hook into #7 then run the strap down & direct it along non-fragile areas to attach other hook. Ratchet it somewhat tight, then press #7 by hand to bottom out and ratchet to hold in that position. But I still think only bad things about that clip.
Hate this clip. Don't mind saying. Tho one "improvement" on pressing #7 retainer down to better access the clip. Yes, we can press it down easily enough, but definitely need both hands dedicated to clip. Get a hold of a ratcheting hold-down (Canoe roof hold-down works well) with large enough hook with no edges, just rounded enough at one end to not damage #7. Place hook into #7 then run the strap down & direct it along non-fragile areas to attach other hook. Ratchet it somewhat tight, then press #7 by hand to bottom out and ratchet to hold in that position. But I still think only bad things about that clip.
airheadbullet
New member
Fork Spring replace
Check out Brook Reams write up on removal of the cap nut on his '83 RS. Similar process with the '94?
https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcyc...83-r100rs-remove-front-suspension-components/
Check out Brook Reams write up on removal of the cap nut on his '83 RS. Similar process with the '94?
https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcyc...83-r100rs-remove-front-suspension-components/
