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lowering pegs for wethead

As an aside, I would advise against purchasing an optional longer shift turnbuckle from Suburban Machinery. I set the stock turnbuckle to it's longest position, making sure that there were several full turns of thread engagement, and snugged it up. In that position, I lost authority to downshift into first gear. With trial and error, I gradually shortened the turnbuckle (raising the shifter) until I had reliable shifting. So, using a longer turnbuckle with the Suburban Machinery lowering blocks won't provide any benefit.

The shifter ended up a bit higher than I would like with the lowered pegs, but it is within an acceptable range.
Cap

Agreed. I found the same problem and reinstalled the stock turnbuckle.
 
So, I went with the Ilium Sport Boards. I understand the seeming contradiction to some folks, and don't resent it, but I bought the RT primarily to be a competent touring bike rather than a sport bike with some storage space. Nothing wrong with that, I do love the sporty side of it, but touring is my focus. Put the boards on last night, rode today, LOVE IT! :dance

I've not adjusted the shifter at this time, I'm going to ride it awhile as is, my boot finally is able to get under the shifter rather than trying to catch it with the side of the boot. Size 12EE. Yes, I have to pick up my foot to downshift, but after many Harley years this doesn't feel all that un-natural to me. Lifting to brake, however, is a little worrisome and awkward, I may end up buying the Ilium lowered brake pedal. Maybe.

The extra 1 3/8 inches, along with being able to rest my foot, is fantastic. I had a tendency to drop my toe downward with the pegs, and have had my foot snatched off the peg in sharp corners. I think the boards will preclude a repetition of that foible.

Happy guy.:thumb
 
So, I went with the Ilium Sport Boards. I understand the seeming contradiction to some folks, and don't resent it, but I bought the RT primarily to be a competent touring bike rather than a sport bike with some storage space. Nothing wrong with that, I do love the sporty side of it, but touring is my focus. Put the boards on last night, rode today, LOVE IT! :dance

I've not adjusted the shifter at this time, I'm going to ride it awhile as is, my boot finally is able to get under the shifter rather than trying to catch it with the side of the boot. Size 12EE. Yes, I have to pick up my foot to downshift, but after many Harley years this doesn't feel all that un-natural to me. Lifting to brake, however, is a little worrisome and awkward, I may end up buying the Ilium lowered brake pedal. Maybe.

The extra 1 3/8 inches, along with being able to rest my foot, is fantastic. I had a tendency to drop my toe downward with the pegs, and have had my foot snatched off the peg in sharp corners. I think the boards will preclude a repetition of that foible.

Happy guy.:thumb


Like you Stebe, I use the RT for touring not for hotroding.

My concern with your idea of lowering those mini boards would be the scraping--which would depend on how hot you ride around corners, albeit, we all have to take a hot corner at one point or another, for one reason or another.

anecdotal: I had a difficult time trying to scrape pegs with the OEM peg height. However, after I lowered the pegs, I can scrape easily, though I don't do it frequently cause I don't hotrod--except when I have to take a hot curve, or just get in the mood for it.

I would guess them mini boards could get caught while scraping; they don't seem to me to be as easily shove back during a scrape as the pegs--I could be wrong. But if I had those boards, I would do some investigation and experimentation before I would lower them.

catching something on the road can turn your tan skin into an albino. I once caught a Wunderlich engine guard on the asphalt and the bike jumped in the air. Thanks to the Heavens above, the bike landed in exactly the same vector line and I kept going--but I had to pry my gonads out from my chest area, if you get my drift.
 
Lifting to brake, however, is a little worrisome and awkward, I may end up buying the Ilium lowered brake pedal.

There is a little bit of adjustment available for the back brake. Just pull the pin #8, loosen the lock nut, and screw the "funky U" shaped bracket up towards the brake plunger. About a 10 minute job.

I lowered my brake pedal when I installed the BMW lowering pegs.

1.JPG
 
Like you Stebe, I use the RT for touring not for hotroding.

My concern with your idea of lowering those mini boards would be the scraping--which would depend on how hot you ride around corners, albeit, we all have to take a hot corner at one point or another, for one reason or another.

anecdotal: I had a difficult time trying to scrape pegs with the OEM peg height. However, after I lowered the pegs, I can scrape easily, though I don't do it frequently cause I don't hotrod--except when I have to take a hot curve, or just get in the mood for it.

I would guess them mini boards could get caught while scraping; they don't seem to me to be as easily shove back during a scrape as the pegs--I could be wrong. But if I had those boards, I would do some investigation and experimentation before I would lower them.

catching something on the road can turn your tan skin into an albino. I once caught a Wunderlich engine guard on the asphalt and the bike jumped in the air. Thanks to the Heavens above, the bike landed in exactly the same vector line and I kept going--but I had to pry my gonads out from my chest area, if you get my drift.

Although I've not yet pushed to the point, I went for a longer ride yesterday on some pretty twisty roads near the Mississippi River in W. Ky and didn't touch down at any point. Given the rounded profile of the outer edge of the board, and the fact that there's no spring tension or détente keeping them down, just gravity and foot pressure, I think they'll be less likely than a peg to catch the road, or other obstacle. I'll be satisfied, though, if I never learn for sure.

Thanks, craigjv4 for the tip, I'll be looking at that this weekend.
 
Suburban Machinery DL18

While shopping for lower peg options for my 2018 RT I discovered that Suburban Machinery is now offering a new design. They claim this design works on late model 1200 RT's including the 1250 RT, without side stand interference. Here is the link https://www.suburban-machinery.com/R1200RTW.html
I ordered them and will report back after install.
 
While shopping for lower peg options for my 2018 RT I discovered that Suburban Machinery is now offering a new design. They claim this design works on late model 1200 RT's including the 1250 RT, without side stand interference. Here is the link https://www.suburban-machinery.com/R1200RTW.html
I ordered them and will report back after install.

What does this new "lowering kit" model do that the older model dont--besides lowering the pegs?
 
I read it.

The thing is, one has to add a pad-thingie for the bottom of the sidestand so that it is easier to kick the sidestand down. This is due to the sidestand-foot now ends up behing the peg.

Maybe I am wrong, but the sidestand was a pain in the arses with the OEM peg cause I would accidentally kick the shifter into first gear.

And with the lowering kid I had to add the extra pad to the foot of the sidestand so I have that little tab sticking up and I can get the kickstand down easier.

Neither of which is that big a thing, but hey, if one is in the mood to whine, there is a couple of reasons rither!
 
R1250RT Footpeg lowering kit

I have the Knight Design on my 2016 RTW. They are the 1 3/8th in drop SideTrax 161710A-1113 http://www.knightdesignllc.com/Products/Motorcycle/BMW/R1200RT/BMW-R1200RT-1-Front-Foot-Pegs.html

I find that they have helped my knees/hips and have never scraped with them, but I shift/lean my body alot to the inside of turns.

Here's my YouTube video of the install and adjustment of the shift rod, but nothing has been done to the foot brake.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITIoJJgutKY&t=21s

Hi Boxflyer. I watched your video on the Knight Design lowering foot pegs. Thank you for making the video. I am also considering these lowering foot pegs too. I am concerned about additional vibrations. Compared to the original foot pegs with the rubber covers do you notice any more vibrations coming up thru the new foot pegs with out the rubber covers?
 
Hi Boxflyer. I watched your video on the Knight Design lowering foot pegs. Thank you for making the video. I am also considering these lowering foot pegs too. I am concerned about additional vibrations. Compared to the original foot pegs with the rubber covers do you notice any more vibrations coming up thru the new foot pegs with out the rubber covers?

Adecood, I've now ridden over 67k miles with the Knight Design lowered pegs listed here.

I'm happy to report no perceptible vibrations from the all metal construction vs the rubber insert style supplied OEM.
Never had them touch in a corner, but I shift my weight to the inside of the bike lots when I'm riding "spirited". Never had an issue with sharp edges tearing my riding pants either like someone commented, I don't move my legs around the pegs much, just rest the bottom of my boot there.

Mostly, I like the relief I get from the new position of the pegs...my knees are not as tight an angle and my hips also don't complain after long days in the saddle. ( I rode 41k miles last summer). I had highway pegs on my engine bars, but have removed them this year since I almost didn't even use them last summer...no real need to.

If you get them, I hope you like them.
 
I bought a side stand expansion foot from Ilium Works because I thought it might help me deploy the side stand after using the Suburban Machinery lowering blocks.

Same for me.
I find that using the tip on the side stand expansion foot which is behind the foot peg works better than the OEM pin on the side stand itself
 
R1250RT Footpeg lowering kit

Adecood, I've now ridden over 67k miles with the Knight Design lowered pegs listed here.

I'm happy to report no perceptible vibrations from the all metal construction vs the rubber insert style supplied OEM.
Never had them touch in a corner, but I shift my weight to the inside of the bike lots when I'm riding "spirited". Never had an issue with sharp edges tearing my riding pants either like someone commented, I don't move my legs around the pegs much, just rest the bottom of my boot there.

Mostly, I like the relief I get from the new position of the pegs...my knees are not as tight an angle and my hips also don't complain after long days in the saddle. ( I rode 41k miles last summer). I had highway pegs on my engine bars, but have removed them this year since I almost didn't even use them last summer...no real need to.

If you get them, I hope you like them.

Boxflyer thank you for responding to my post on this subject. I really appreciate the feed back.
 
Opposite of Peg Lowering

Not exactly on point here, but after taking in all of the experience and advice on this thread, I discovered that BMW made a "high" seat option for my 2019 RT. Since I live and ride mostly in the Southeast (with occasional trips out west), I opted for the high seat without the seat heat. I did keep the original heated seat in case I ever need it. Anyway, with a modest dealer discount, it cost the same as the peg lowering kit and adjustable rear brake lever/pedal assembly, and comfortably accommodated my 34-inch inseam, while maintaining stock ground clearance.
 
Not exactly on point here, but after taking in all of the experience and advice on this thread, I discovered that BMW made a "high" seat option for my 2019 RT. Since I live and ride mostly in the Southeast (with occasional trips out west), I opted for the high seat without the seat heat. I did keep the original heated seat in case I ever need it. Anyway, with a modest dealer discount, it cost the same as the peg lowering kit and adjustable rear brake lever/pedal assembly, and comfortably accommodated my 34-inch inseam, while maintaining stock ground clearance.

Oh yeah. With a 34-inch inseam, the high seat is step number 1 for any BMW.......in my opinion.
 
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