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Thread: lowering pegs for wethead

  1. #16
    Registered User ExGMan's Avatar
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    I had the Ilium Sportboards on my 2008 RT and switched them to my 2015 RT. I saw that Ilium had made a more compact version for the LC model, but decided to try the old ones. With 30K miles on them now, they have not been a problem.

    I did change the brake lever to the Ilium unit, and added the enlarged shift adapter, albeit with a set screw tapped into it to keep it from falling off. Reaching the side-stand is a minor problem, which I handle with the heel of my left boot. None of this would be necessary except for my arthritic knees, which work fine for walking, but don't like compression much. Oh well.
    John Gamel
    2015 Ebony Metallic R1200RT
    BMW CCA 2006 - Present; BMW MOA 2009-Present
    Walt Kelly: "We have met the enemy, and he is us."

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by ExGMan View Post
    I had the Ilium Sportboards on my 2008 RT and switched them to my 2015 RT. I saw that Ilium had made a more compact version for the LC model, but decided to try the old ones. With 30K miles on them now, they have not been a problem.

    I did change the brake lever to the Ilium unit, and added the enlarged shift adapter, albeit with a set screw tapped into it to keep it from falling off. Reaching the side-stand is a minor problem, which I handle with the heel of my left boot. None of this would be necessary except for my arthritic knees, which work fine for walking, but don't like compression much. Oh well.
    Good to know. I get the knee thing, my left is total knee replacement and it gets cranky at being bent so sharply for so long.

  3. #18
    Registered User cap's Avatar
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    pics of Ilium Works solutions

    I bought a side stand expansion foot from Ilium Works because I thought it might help me deploy the side stand after using the Suburban Machinery lowering blocks. It works fine as a solution for people like me with big feet. In the pic below, you can see how the peg-lowering blocks make it harder to access the side stand, and how the Ilium Works piece helps out. As a bonus, I also included a pic of the Ilium Works replacement rear brake lever in the lowest position. I think they could make it a lot cheaper if they removed the adjustment and just sold it with the low position. In any case, it works great, and was easy to install.

    Cap

    ilium1.jpg

    ilium2.jpg

  4. #19
    BMW MOA co-founder bmwdean's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=cap;1138874] As a bonus, I also included a pic of the Ilium Works replacement rear brake lever in the lowest position. I think they could make it a lot cheaper if they removed the adjustment and just sold it with the low position. In any case, it works great, and was easy to install.

    Here is another photo of Ilium's adjustable brake lever with the right side lower foot peg. Does the job.

    Jeff Dean − BMW MOA Co-founder (1972)
    Tucson, Arizona, and Madison, Wisconsin
    Co-founder, 1972, of BMW MOA -- http://bmwdean.com/r1200rtw.htm
    '17 R1200RT, '15 R1200RT, '67 R60/2, '69 R60US, '55 R67/3, '49 R24

  5. #20
    Registered User cap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cap View Post
    ...using the Suburban Machinery lowering blocks. ...
    As an aside, I would advise against purchasing an optional longer shift turnbuckle from Suburban Machinery. I set the stock turnbuckle to it's longest position, making sure that there were several full turns of thread engagement, and snugged it up. In that position, I lost authority to downshift into first gear. With trial and error, I gradually shortened the turnbuckle (raising the shifter) until I had reliable shifting. So, using a longer turnbuckle with the Suburban Machinery lowering blocks won't provide any benefit.

    The shifter ended up a bit higher than I would like with the lowered pegs, but it is within an acceptable range.
    Cap

  6. #21
    BMW MOA co-founder bmwdean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cap View Post
    As an aside, I would advise against purchasing an optional longer shift turnbuckle from Suburban Machinery. I set the stock turnbuckle to it's longest position, making sure that there were several full turns of thread engagement, and snugged it up. In that position, I lost authority to downshift into first gear. With trial and error, I gradually shortened the turnbuckle (raising the shifter) until I had reliable shifting. So, using a longer turnbuckle with the Suburban Machinery lowering blocks won't provide any benefit.

    The shifter ended up a bit higher than I would like with the lowered pegs, but it is within an acceptable range.
    Cap
    Agreed. I found the same problem and reinstalled the stock turnbuckle.
    Jeff Dean − BMW MOA Co-founder (1972)
    Tucson, Arizona, and Madison, Wisconsin
    Co-founder, 1972, of BMW MOA -- http://bmwdean.com/r1200rtw.htm
    '17 R1200RT, '15 R1200RT, '67 R60/2, '69 R60US, '55 R67/3, '49 R24

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