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Thread: lowering pegs for wethead

  1. #16
    Registered User ExGMan's Avatar
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    I had the Ilium Sportboards on my 2008 RT and switched them to my 2015 RT. I saw that Ilium had made a more compact version for the LC model, but decided to try the old ones. With 30K miles on them now, they have not been a problem.

    I did change the brake lever to the Ilium unit, and added the enlarged shift adapter, albeit with a set screw tapped into it to keep it from falling off. Reaching the side-stand is a minor problem, which I handle with the heel of my left boot. None of this would be necessary except for my arthritic knees, which work fine for walking, but don't like compression much. Oh well.
    John Gamel
    2015 Ebony Metallic R1200RT
    BMW CCA 2006 - Present; BMW MOA 2009-Present
    Walt Kelly: "We have met the enemy, and he is us."

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by ExGMan View Post
    I had the Ilium Sportboards on my 2008 RT and switched them to my 2015 RT. I saw that Ilium had made a more compact version for the LC model, but decided to try the old ones. With 30K miles on them now, they have not been a problem.

    I did change the brake lever to the Ilium unit, and added the enlarged shift adapter, albeit with a set screw tapped into it to keep it from falling off. Reaching the side-stand is a minor problem, which I handle with the heel of my left boot. None of this would be necessary except for my arthritic knees, which work fine for walking, but don't like compression much. Oh well.
    Good to know. I get the knee thing, my left is total knee replacement and it gets cranky at being bent so sharply for so long.

  3. #18
    Registered User cap's Avatar
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    pics of Ilium Works solutions

    I bought a side stand expansion foot from Ilium Works because I thought it might help me deploy the side stand after using the Suburban Machinery lowering blocks. It works fine as a solution for people like me with big feet. In the pic below, you can see how the peg-lowering blocks make it harder to access the side stand, and how the Ilium Works piece helps out. As a bonus, I also included a pic of the Ilium Works replacement rear brake lever in the lowest position. I think they could make it a lot cheaper if they removed the adjustment and just sold it with the low position. In any case, it works great, and was easy to install.

    Cap

    ilium1.jpg

    ilium2.jpg

  4. #19
    BMW MOA co-founder bmwdean's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=cap;1138874] As a bonus, I also included a pic of the Ilium Works replacement rear brake lever in the lowest position. I think they could make it a lot cheaper if they removed the adjustment and just sold it with the low position. In any case, it works great, and was easy to install.

    Here is another photo of Ilium's adjustable brake lever with the right side lower foot peg. Does the job.

    Jeff Dean
    Tucson, Arizona, and Madison, Wisconsin
    Co-founder, 1972, of BMW MOA -- http://bmwdean.com/r1200rtw.htm
    '17 R1200RT, '15 R1200RT, '67 R60/2, '69 R60US, '55 R67/3, '49 R24

  5. #20
    Registered User cap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cap View Post
    ...using the Suburban Machinery lowering blocks. ...
    As an aside, I would advise against purchasing an optional longer shift turnbuckle from Suburban Machinery. I set the stock turnbuckle to it's longest position, making sure that there were several full turns of thread engagement, and snugged it up. In that position, I lost authority to downshift into first gear. With trial and error, I gradually shortened the turnbuckle (raising the shifter) until I had reliable shifting. So, using a longer turnbuckle with the Suburban Machinery lowering blocks won't provide any benefit.

    The shifter ended up a bit higher than I would like with the lowered pegs, but it is within an acceptable range.
    Cap

  6. #21
    BMW MOA co-founder bmwdean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cap View Post
    As an aside, I would advise against purchasing an optional longer shift turnbuckle from Suburban Machinery. I set the stock turnbuckle to it's longest position, making sure that there were several full turns of thread engagement, and snugged it up. In that position, I lost authority to downshift into first gear. With trial and error, I gradually shortened the turnbuckle (raising the shifter) until I had reliable shifting. So, using a longer turnbuckle with the Suburban Machinery lowering blocks won't provide any benefit.

    The shifter ended up a bit higher than I would like with the lowered pegs, but it is within an acceptable range.
    Cap
    Agreed. I found the same problem and reinstalled the stock turnbuckle.
    Jeff Dean
    Tucson, Arizona, and Madison, Wisconsin
    Co-founder, 1972, of BMW MOA -- http://bmwdean.com/r1200rtw.htm
    '17 R1200RT, '15 R1200RT, '67 R60/2, '69 R60US, '55 R67/3, '49 R24

  7. #22
    So, I went with the Ilium Sport Boards. I understand the seeming contradiction to some folks, and don't resent it, but I bought the RT primarily to be a competent touring bike rather than a sport bike with some storage space. Nothing wrong with that, I do love the sporty side of it, but touring is my focus. Put the boards on last night, rode today, LOVE IT!

    I've not adjusted the shifter at this time, I'm going to ride it awhile as is, my boot finally is able to get under the shifter rather than trying to catch it with the side of the boot. Size 12EE. Yes, I have to pick up my foot to downshift, but after many Harley years this doesn't feel all that un-natural to me. Lifting to brake, however, is a little worrisome and awkward, I may end up buying the Ilium lowered brake pedal. Maybe.

    The extra 1 3/8 inches, along with being able to rest my foot, is fantastic. I had a tendency to drop my toe downward with the pegs, and have had my foot snatched off the peg in sharp corners. I think the boards will preclude a repetition of that foible.

    Happy guy.

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Stebe View Post
    So, I went with the Ilium Sport Boards. I understand the seeming contradiction to some folks, and don't resent it, but I bought the RT primarily to be a competent touring bike rather than a sport bike with some storage space. Nothing wrong with that, I do love the sporty side of it, but touring is my focus. Put the boards on last night, rode today, LOVE IT!

    I've not adjusted the shifter at this time, I'm going to ride it awhile as is, my boot finally is able to get under the shifter rather than trying to catch it with the side of the boot. Size 12EE. Yes, I have to pick up my foot to downshift, but after many Harley years this doesn't feel all that un-natural to me. Lifting to brake, however, is a little worrisome and awkward, I may end up buying the Ilium lowered brake pedal. Maybe.

    The extra 1 3/8 inches, along with being able to rest my foot, is fantastic. I had a tendency to drop my toe downward with the pegs, and have had my foot snatched off the peg in sharp corners. I think the boards will preclude a repetition of that foible.

    Happy guy.

    Like you Stebe, I use the RT for touring not for hotroding.

    My concern with your idea of lowering those mini boards would be the scraping--which would depend on how hot you ride around corners, albeit, we all have to take a hot corner at one point or another, for one reason or another.

    anecdotal: I had a difficult time trying to scrape pegs with the OEM peg height. However, after I lowered the pegs, I can scrape easily, though I don't do it frequently cause I don't hotrod--except when I have to take a hot curve, or just get in the mood for it.

    I would guess them mini boards could get caught while scraping; they don't seem to me to be as easily shove back during a scrape as the pegs--I could be wrong. But if I had those boards, I would do some investigation and experimentation before I would lower them.

    catching something on the road can turn your tan skin into an albino. I once caught a Wunderlich engine guard on the asphalt and the bike jumped in the air. Thanks to the Heavens above, the bike landed in exactly the same vector line and I kept going--but I had to pry my gonads out from my chest area, if you get my drift.
    "...whether is clear to you or not, the universe is unfolding as it should"

  9. #24
    Registered User cap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stebe View Post
    S... had my foot snatched off the peg in sharp corners....
    That always get MY attention!

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stebe View Post
    Lifting to brake, however, is a little worrisome and awkward, I may end up buying the Ilium lowered brake pedal.
    There is a little bit of adjustment available for the back brake. Just pull the pin #8, loosen the lock nut, and screw the "funky U" shaped bracket up towards the brake plunger. About a 10 minute job.

    I lowered my brake pedal when I installed the BMW lowering pegs.

    1.JPG
    2015 R1200GSA

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Wethead View Post
    Like you Stebe, I use the RT for touring not for hotroding.

    My concern with your idea of lowering those mini boards would be the scraping--which would depend on how hot you ride around corners, albeit, we all have to take a hot corner at one point or another, for one reason or another.

    anecdotal: I had a difficult time trying to scrape pegs with the OEM peg height. However, after I lowered the pegs, I can scrape easily, though I don't do it frequently cause I don't hotrod--except when I have to take a hot curve, or just get in the mood for it.

    I would guess them mini boards could get caught while scraping; they don't seem to me to be as easily shove back during a scrape as the pegs--I could be wrong. But if I had those boards, I would do some investigation and experimentation before I would lower them.

    catching something on the road can turn your tan skin into an albino. I once caught a Wunderlich engine guard on the asphalt and the bike jumped in the air. Thanks to the Heavens above, the bike landed in exactly the same vector line and I kept going--but I had to pry my gonads out from my chest area, if you get my drift.
    Although I've not yet pushed to the point, I went for a longer ride yesterday on some pretty twisty roads near the Mississippi River in W. Ky and didn't touch down at any point. Given the rounded profile of the outer edge of the board, and the fact that there's no spring tension or détente keeping them down, just gravity and foot pressure, I think they'll be less likely than a peg to catch the road, or other obstacle. I'll be satisfied, though, if I never learn for sure.

    Thanks, craigjv4 for the tip, I'll be looking at that this weekend.

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