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Thread: Break-in Period - R1200RT 2013

  1. #1

    Break-in Period - R1200RT 2013

    hi

    Looking for bit of advice.

    I have a 2013 RT that has about 16k on the clock the last 7k are on my watch. Love the bike but the issue I'm having is that the bike seems to burn oil, aways has. No leaks and no visible oil spray out of the muffler.

    At the 12,000 mile service I was told that it's normal for the rings to be still seating and that the oil topping off would slow down. It didn't.

    At about 15k I was advised by Beamer Boneyard to do an oil change and use conventional oil MOLY AE20W-50 for until the next change. Still needs to be topped off at 16k.

    Today I did about 350 miles and about 200 in the oil light came on, then it went off and at about 250 it came on and stayed on. I looked at the glass and did not see any oil. I put about 8-10oz in, the light went out and I finished the day.

    It's not a huge issue to top it off but I was wondering if this is a common issue for this bike?

    Thanks in advance

    HW
    Last edited by hwerner; 08-06-2018 at 02:29 AM.

  2. #2
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    2013 should be the last model year before the water cooled engine right?

    I had a 2012 and it was “consuming” oil well into 10k kilometers and slowly stopped after that. I remember that the key was to run your engine rougher (e.g., higher rev and shift later) than you normally would.

  3. #3
    Dress for fall & avoid it AlanColes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hwerner View Post
    ... about 200 in the oil light came on, then it went off and at about 250 it came on and stayed on. I looked at the glass and did not see any oil. I put about 8-10oz in, the light went out and I finished the day.

    It's not a huge issue to top it off but I was wondering if this is a common issue for this bike? ...
    That is not common or healthy for any bike or engine. 10oz or more in 250 miles means that there is an issue that needs to be addressed. Likely not a "don't ride it" issue but something that should be identified sooner rather than later.

    With that much being lost and no signs of it leaking or being burnt then you have a dilemma. Have someone follow you to see if they can detect oil in the exhaust gasses. The most likely cause, to my limited diagnostic abilities, sounds like the bike was broken in way too gently and the rings didn't seat well at all, however, I question that even as a fresh rebuild shouldn't consume half that amount.

    Where are you located? Can you find (or someone here recommend) a quality and knowledgable Oilhead mechanic close to you? A compression test and proper leak-down test will give you some information on the state of the internals, it may not provide enough to help, but is worth a try.
    Regards, Alan - President BMWONS - MOA Charter Club #097, BMWMOA/BMWRA/BMWONS/Airheads
    Current: '14 R1200RT / '06 Ducati ST3s / '91 R100GS / '86 R80RT / '75 R90S / '73 850 & '70 750 Commando Prev: '04 R1150RT / '81 Honda GL1100 / '77 Suzuki GS750 / '73 Norton 850 Commando

  4. #4
    Registered User lkraus's Avatar
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    I see you rode 350 miles the day you added oil, but I am not clear on how many miles it had been since the oil level was known to be correct.

    I bought my bike at 16,400 miles and it was still using about 12 to 16 ounces per thousand miles. It totally stopped using oil around 18,500 miles.

    Coincidentally, that was immediately after a rather, ummm, well, let's call it a spirited ride through West Virginia mountains using the full rpm range with frequent changes.
    Larry
    2006 R1200RT

  5. #5
    Registered User alegerlotz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lkraus View Post
    I see you rode 350 miles the day you added oil, but I am not clear on how many miles it had been since the oil level was known to be correct.

    I bought my bike at 16,400 miles and it was still using about 12 to 16 ounces per thousand miles. It totally stopped using oil around 18,500 miles.

    Coincidentally, that was immediately after a rather, ummm, well, let's call it a spirited ride through West Virginia mountains using the full rpm range with frequent changes.
    My 2005 used oil, but not as much as you're talking about... less than a quart between 6K changes. (I bought that bike with 39K miles and sold it with 52.5K miles). It did seem to run better after I "ride it like I stole it".
    Last edited by alegerlotz; 08-06-2018 at 06:10 PM.
    2016 R1200RT
    2007 KTM 450 XC-W (10/17 - 5/18)
    2005 R1200RT (2/2015 - 12/2016)
    1985 Yamaha XJ 700 Maxim (7/1989 - 9/1991)

  6. #6
    Before yesterday’s ride the oil level was correct.

    Thanks for all the wise words.

    I suspect the original owner was a bit timid.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by kevinsclo View Post
    2013 should be the last model year before the water cooled engine right?

    I had a 2012 and it was “consuming” oil well into 10k kilometers and slowly stopped after that. I remember that the key was to run your engine rougher (e.g., higher rev and shift later) than you normally would.
    Thanks for the reply. I'm wondering two things. Did you keep to the 6k oil change cycle, or did you shorten it and do you use conventional oil or synthetic.

    I've been told that using conventional oil helps get the ring to seat quicker.

    thanks

    HW

  8. #8
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    There is a HUGE difference between the oil light (low oil pressure) and the low oil level icon. Please confirm it was the low oil level icon.

    Rod

  9. #9
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    Hex-head bikes should use conventional oils for the first 12000 miles to ensure the rings seat properly, if previous owner switched to synthetic too early or didn’t break in the rings properly, oil usage would continue
    At this point you have 2 options, re-ring the cylinders $$$$ or top off the oil and ride it like you stole it, seriously make the engine work, 7000-8000 RPMS shifts and use compression braking, you are trying to get the glaze off the cylinder walls. This may take several thousand miles keep checking oil level
    My 2012 1200gs was broke in hard, after the first 1000 miles oil usage was minuscule, I switched to synthetic oil at 6k, but continued to ride bike hard

  10. #10
    Registered User RIDERR1150GSADV's Avatar
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    My oil-heads were all broken in on conventional oil and switched to synthetic when they stopped using oil. Usually around 12K, give or take. Ride it like you stole it and the rings will seat properly.
    Use conventional oil and keep an eye on the oil level. Bring oil with you just in case.
    Right around 25K is where these bikes will start to be broken in and smooth out more. YMMV
    MOA # 108516
    Current ride 2018 R1200 GSA Triple Black
    Past rides '04 R1150RT, '05 K1200LT, '06 R1150GSA, ‘17 R1200RT

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by hwerner View Post
    Thanks for the reply. I'm wondering two things. Did you keep to the 6k oil change cycle, or did you shorten it and do you use conventional oil or synthetic.

    I've been told that using conventional oil helps get the ring to seat quicker.

    thanks

    HW
    I used conventional oil and change annually (after hibernation). I suspect you could start using the OEM synthetic mix after the break-in period.

    (Hope I’m not starting a oil-discussion war here.)

  12. #12
    Registered User LFarling's Avatar
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    Horse Crap.

    Synthetic oil is fine and will not impede break in of rings and cylinders.

    My 15 RT and 17.5 GS both come filled with synthetic oil.

    These are nikasil cylinders and you will still see crosshatching on the walls after 40 thousand miles plus.

    Bunch of old wise tales being repeated here. Not a bit of truth or science to it.

    I believe they were not broken in right and the rings never seated. I am not sure you can re break in rings but that would be my first thing to try.

    My LT, and RT and now the GS were ridden the way I ride from day one. None of those bikes used oil, not a drop.

    I would run the bike, high RPM, compression braking, and run the snot out of the bike. If after 500-1000 miles oil use did not drop then I would try another brand of oil, not type but brand. Some bikes do not like certain brands of oils. Also viscosity could be a factor make sure it is heavy enough probably a 15W-50 would be s heavy as you can go not sure.

    After that maybe you need to get a leak down test or compression check to see what may be wrong.

    It could be bad rings but it also could be bad valve seals. There is no truth to "too slippery of a oil" for rings to seat.

    Just please stop the synthetic parroting. I think dealers started that to cover their warranty ass when bikes used oil and they did not want to go into the bike to find the issues.

    The 800 HP Demon comes through with synth, as the Corvette and many other very high performance cars are filled with synth. It is not the oil folks.
    Lee
    2017.5 R 1200 GSW

  13. #13
    Registered User RIDERR1150GSADV's Avatar
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    ^ I agree that there is no difference in oil when breaking in a bike.
    The only reason to use conventional oil is because it's cheaper to keep adding it in case of heavy use..... Yup I'm cheap that way... YMMV
    MOA # 108516
    Current ride 2018 R1200 GSA Triple Black
    Past rides '04 R1150RT, '05 K1200LT, '06 R1150GSA, ‘17 R1200RT

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