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Cleaning K75 starter switch

rall275

New member
I just haven't found a reasonably detailed, visual explanation of how to do this somewhat delicate operation. My switch starts ok, but the kill feature doesn't work. My bike had been having some hot start issues too, so I thought I'd dig into this cleaning. I cleaned the ignition switch (wasn't too bad), and the starter, but wanted to finish off with the starter/kill switch.

Anyone have a detailed account of this procedure? I'm afraid I'll pop it open and watch all the springs and pieces flying off.


picture of my bike under my carport getting some attention from me. heat and humidity is slowing my progress.

Thanks!
 

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Take out the small Phillips head screw and remove the switch cluster from the control perch. Turn it over and look at the underneath side. Operate the starter and kill switch control. The contact area is plainly visible. Get some Deoxit, or spray contact cleaner. Spray the underneath side of the switch assembly and operate all the control switches several times. No further disassembly should be needed. If it is the odds are that the switch is already junk and ought to be replaced. If adventurous, surround your hands and the switch with a clear plastic bag so the little springs and round metal balls are contained. Sometimes people can even put them all back together but not often.
 
Sound advice there. I'm more of the idea to, like you suggested, just spray off the switch and operate it to loosen and drain any contaminants.

I'll post what I do.

Thanks again for the second opinion!
 
Rall,

If you are wanting to remove your drive shaft for cleaning or to inspect the universal, DO NOT use those vice grips to grip the shaft!!!

Repeated use of searated jaw pliers on the snout of the driveshaft can leave stress risers and lead to early failure.

P1000442.jpg



Take a 1 1/8" or so hose clamp and tighted it around the snout of the driveshaft. Then use a pry bar against the screw section of the hose clamp, using the end of the swingarm as the fulcrum, being careful not to mar the end of the swingarm. A quick snapping action works better than just heavy pressure. There is a spring clip inside the driveshaft that pops in a groove in the transmission shaft. When reseating the driveshaft to the transmission shaft, slide it on the splines till it stops. Then give it a pop with a dead blow mallet or a hammer with a block of wood on the end of the shaft. It should go in about another 1/2" and not be able to be slid out.



:dance:dance:dance
 
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Rall,

If you are wanting to remove your drive shaft for cleaning or to inspect the universal, DO NOT use those vice grips to grip the shaft!!!

Repeated use of searated jaw pliers on the snout of the driveshaft can leave stress risers and lead to early failure.

View attachment 69099



Take a 1 1/8" or so hose clamp and tighted it around the snout of the driveshaft. Then use a pry bar against the screw section of the hose clamp, using the end of the swingarm as the fulcrum, being careful not to mar the end of the swingarm. A quick snapping action works better than just heavy pressure. There is a spring clip inside the driveshaft that pops in a groove in the transmission shaft. When reseating the driveshaft to the transmission shaft, slide it on the splines till it stops. Then give it a pop with a dead blow mallet or a hammer with a block of wood on the end of the shaft. It should go in about another 1/2" and not be able to be slid out.



:dance:dance:dance


Thanks! got the shaft out gently by just pulling on it with my hands. Had tapped it inward slightly to loosen it first. Now just trying to troubleshoot a problem in getting it to start after all my painstaking work. Today I confirmed fuel going to the injectors. fuel pump is working too. Also getting spark to the plugs.

Oh, what a waste of a rare driveshaft in that photo!
 
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Just wanted to update everyone on the switch project and the starting issue.

Removed switch and springs, cleaned off, and reassembled. It did have some gunk on it for sure. Not as difficult a task as many led me to believe.

Bike has started and ran well. The brain plug was not properly seated. Audible click this time when rear (away from front pivot snap in point) was pushed inward. Now, waiting for some centerstand and sidestand bolts and collars to replace, esp. the sidestand which does not seat snuggly with the rubber piece.



I might post with many photos about my summer work on my bike. The photos I'm sending here show me sweating under the carport under the blazing sun swatting mosquitos and unable to hydrate properly in the heat.
Other photo shows the center and sidestand after I cleaned, replaced the center stand's collar, and painted it. Hope I can still add some parts to the stand with it remaining on the bike.
third photo shows cleaned starter switch knob.
 

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