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Wethead bodywork Fasteners and washers

robsryder

Motorcycleton
On my 2018 R1200RTW many of the fasteners are of the Torx type. Most of the body work is secured by stainless steel m5 x 0.8 screws. The photo below shows the flanged T25 Torx head common to these fasteners. The BMW means that you won't find these at your local hardware store and the A2 is a designation for the type of stainless steel used (actually ASTM-304 corrosion resistant; http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/basics.htm ) -
bmw_t25-fastener1.jpg

The next photo shows a side view of the commonly used lengths of fasteners, with two different heights of shoulders. The screw with the taller shoulder is used where two body panels meet over the threaded nut; the shorter shoulder is more common and is where a single body panel is over the threaded nut -
bmw_t25-fastener2.jpg

The threaded "nut" is actually a "U-shaped" clip-on fastener. The next two photos show this U-clip.
bmw_u-clip.jpg bmw_u-clip2.jpg

One of the things that is quite interesting about the shoulder fasteners is that a nearly clear plastic washer is used. Perhaps this plastic washer is needed to keep from marring the paint on the body work. The photo below shows this small plastic washer -
bmw_t25-fastener3.jpg

When I have removed these T25 Torx fasteners I have sometimes had the clear plastic washer fall off and land on the garage floor. These fasteners become invisible when on my garage floor. It was thus necessary for me to come up with a strategy to replace the washers. An inexpensive, but seemingly suitable plastic material is the wall of a milk jug. I use a 1/2-inch hollow hole punch to generate a number of 1/2-inch diameter plastic discs. I then use a 1/4-inch hollow hole punch to create a hole in the 1/2-inch discs. The centering of the punch is done by eye and is approximate. These replacement plastic washers fit and seem to work well with the shoulder T25 Torx screws. The photo below shows the hollow hole punches, a piece of milk jug, and several generated plastic washers. -
bmw_t25-fastener4.jpg

A set of hollow hole punches can be obtained from Harbor Freight for less than $10. Link follows -
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html
 
The photos are not coming through. Can that be fixed.


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Been logged in for a long time? Clear your history (which takes it all) and log back in-----if they don't show tomorrow. Happens that way sometimes.
OM
 
I use Tapatalk, and it logs me out regularly. Other ideas to resolve the issue?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
On my 2018 R1200RTW many of the fasteners are of the Torx type. Most of the body work is secured by stainless steel m5 x 0.8 screws. The photo below shows the flanged T25 Torx head common to these fasteners. The BMW means that you won't find these at your local hardware store and the A2 is a designation for the type of stainless steel used (actually ASTM-304 corrosion resistant; http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/basics.htm ) -
View attachment 69050

The next photo shows a side view of the commonly used lengths of fasteners, with two different heights of shoulders. The screw with the taller shoulder is used where two body panels meet over the threaded nut; the shorter shoulder is more common and is where a single body panel is over the threaded nut -
View attachment 69051

The threaded "nut" is actually a "U-shaped" clip-on fastener. The next two photos show this U-clip.
View attachment 69052 View attachment 69053

One of the things that is quite interesting about the shoulder fasteners is that a nearly clear plastic washer is used. Perhaps this plastic washer is needed to keep from marring the paint on the body work. The photo below shows this small plastic washer -
View attachment 69054

When I have removed these T25 Torx fasteners I have sometimes had the clear plastic washer fall off and land on the garage floor. These fasteners become invisible when on my garage floor. It was thus necessary for me to come up with a strategy to replace the washers. An inexpensive, but seemingly suitable plastic material is the wall of a milk jug. I use a 1/2-inch hollow hole punch to generate a number of 1/2-inch diameter plastic discs. I then use a 1/4-inch hollow hole punch to create a hole in the 1/2-inch discs. The centering of the punch is done by eye and is approximate. These replacement plastic washers fit and seem to work well with the shoulder T25 Torx screws. The photo below shows the hollow hole punches, a piece of milk jug, and several generated plastic washers. -
View attachment 69055

A set of hollow hole punches can be obtained from Harbor Freight for less than $10. Link follows -
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html

Any idea where to find these fasteners other than BMW? They are very expensive at the BMW dealers.


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Following are selected fastener parts with part number, description, and unit pricing from the MaxBMW parts fiche -

Part Number Description Each
46638521653 BODY SCREW WITH SHOULDER - M5X14,5MM $2.91
46638521654 BODY SCREW WITH SHOULDER - M5X17,5MM $2.97
46638532314 SELF-LOCKING PLUG NUT - M5 $2.94
06327651212 BINDING HEAD SCREW - M5X16-A2-80 $2.38
18518531936 TORX SCREW - M5X12 $3.82
46638534938 BODY SCREW WITHOUT SHOULDER - M5X14 $2.86

These parts appear to be specially made for BMW. As noted, the unit cost is higher than fasteners typically available from the local hardware store.

I have used one vendor for similar (e.g., T25 Torx head, m5x0.8, A2 fasteners). However these fasteners do not have the flange nor the shoulder that the BMW fasteners have. Link follows -
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/M5-x-8-Torx-Pan-Head-Machine-Screw-Metric-A2-SS-p/1099-008.htm
 
Thank you for the metallurgical description of these fasteners, the photos, and the explanations. :clap

I have not had one come loose yet on my 2014 GSA, but I tend to lose one every so often in the garage. I am Ok with the BMW cost of these fasteners, they seem like high quality. Now the cost of some other BMW parts, that is worth complaining about.
 
Yeah, three bucks is high for a single screw or nut... but if you buy an "equivalent" from McMaster-Carr, Granger, ASM, etc., those probably won't have an anti-corrosion finish, and if they're a different material, you may encounter future issues with oxidation (due to electrolysis) at the interface of the screw and nut.
Grrr...
 
Yeah, three bucks is high for a single screw or nut... but if you buy an "equivalent" from McMaster-Carr, Granger, ASM, etc., those probably won't have an anti-corrosion finish, and if they're a different material, you may encounter future issues with oxidation (due to electrolysis) at the interface of the screw and nut.
Grrr...

Unfortunately my local BMW dealer marks them up much higher than that...


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McMaster-Carr has stainless metric screws with shoulders -
https://www.mcmaster.com/#shoulder-screws/=1dnnj48

Various flanged screws are also available from McMaster Carr
https://www.mcmaster.com/#flange-head-screws/=1dnnksw
https://www.mcmaster.com/#flange-head-screws/=1dnnliy
https://www.mcmaster.com/#flange-head-screws/=1dnnlq6

I did not see flanged screws with a shoulder. I suppose one could obtain or make some small bushings that would act as an effective shoulder. Even if one were using some aluminum tubing of appropriate ID and OD, there would be some effort to cut the tubing to the correct length with the faces perpendicular to be the wall.
 
Last edited:
If one has the impression that there is a lot of bodywork on the RTW to remove for various services, here is a video clip that can show a further extreme -

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/sKobwz7wJso" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I suppose that cost is relative. Article below indicates that this car goes for $1.5 M!

https://www.edmunds.com/bugatti/veyron-164/
 
Anti seize

It’s a good idea to wipe a little dab of anti seize on the screw threads before you reassemble things. It will cut down on the dissimilar metal corrosion on those fasteners and keep you from having to drill the heads off to get things apart. We deal with this all the time on aircraft where owners want to change the plated screws for stainless, then find out that’s not a perfect world either.
 
I’ve dropped or lost a few body panel screws on various bikes over the years
To prevent mixing the wrong shoulder screws up I use a bit of masking tape to secure each screw next to the correct hole in panel that i’ve Removed
For reassembly I use a dab of white assembly grease on each screw
Parts manager at Long Beach BMW made me up a kit with the 3 most commonly lost screws and plastic washers, since I got the spares, I haven’t lost a screw go figure!

Jim
 
What happened to post 18 with the pdf of the tupperware screw locations?

Cant seem to find this. Seems to have disappeared
 
A couple of fellers that go by "Chris on the Street" and "Boxflyer" have prepared a series of videos on doing the service on the R1200RTW. A link to one of these videos is shown. As I recall, in the notes were links to tools used, including the pdf images used to make the fastener locator board. Since I've cited the source, I hope that it is ok for me to reproduce the link to the downloadable pdf file showing the body panels and fastener locations here -

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qZzsx29Ya0_AgVpZNyyxDg4AfnIoFCVT/view

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/R0UhPhg5MvI" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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