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98 1100RT clutch noise

M

mtlla70

New member
Heya!

Maybe y'all can help me. Yesterday, as I was pulling off the freeway close to home at the end of a ride, I noticed that suddenly I had a whole lot of freeplay at the clutch lever (like, 15+mm). At a stop light, I adjusted the nuts at the handlebar real quick to pull it back in. That gave me about 20mm or so at between the knurled nut and the adjuster nut; waaay too much.
When I got home and looked at it, I couldn't adjust back to 7mm at the lever. And - I noticed a whining sound when I pulled the lever in. It was there in N and when I put it in gear.
This morning I adjusted the clutch at the transmission and managed to get it all back to spec and working right, except that noise was still there and fairly pronounced. I have attached a video; you can hear the whine as I pull the lever.
https://vimeo.com/272652268
There is also another new sound, but I will create a separate post for that so as to avoid confusion...
Thanks in advance for any help!

Cheers!
N

 
The release bearing is dry.
You may get lucky and get away with greasing it right away but I suspect replacing it will be required.
Use a high temperature wheel bearing grease.
 

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mtlla70 said:
Oh, Big job getting in there? I have done some of my own work (oil, valves, TB synch, both tires). Within my pay grade, you reckon?
Click to expand...
Not that big, pull the shock, paralever, Final drive out of the way.
Attached picture shows assy (paralever removed)
 

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GSAddict said:
Not that big, pull the shock, paralever, Final drive out of the way.
Attached picture shows assy (paralever removed)
Click to expand...

Is it just a matter of pulling the clutch control assembly out, greasing the bearings and replacing it? Or do I have to crack the bike in half..?
 
mtlla70 said:
Great. So, just rear tire off, shock out of the way, pull out the assembly, grease and reassemble?

Thanks!
Click to expand...


The paralever, Final drive must also be removed to access.
You will have to determine if the bearing is salvageable, it may well need to be replaced.
 
GSAddict said:
The paralever, Final drive must also be removed to access.
You will have to determine if the bearing is salvageable, it may well need to be replaced.
Click to expand...

Gotcha. $90 for a new one, so might as well replace. I wonder if I should go ahead crack tranny and replace friction plate and do a spline lube if I'm going that far in anyway..?
 
mtlla70 said:
Gotcha. $90 for a new one, so might as well replace. I wonder if I should go ahead crack tranny and replace friction plate and do a spline lube if I'm going that far in anyway..?
Click to expand...

Are you having issues? what is the mileage?
That is typically winter work unless you have to.
 
GSAddict said:
Are you having issues? what is the mileage?
That is typically winter work unless you have to.
Click to expand...

Other than the new sound, no issues. Maybe the friction zone is getting a little narrow, but that's about it. I just don't like the new sound. I figure if I'm going to get into the clutch at all, I might as well do more work/inspection? I live in LA. No winter work...
68k miles.
 
The bearing just collapsed. Grease will just hold the shrapnel together better. You need a new slave cylinder ASAP.
 
If it was me I would replace the bearing before I did any more riding, just to preclude doing damage to other items. With 68K on the clock, do you know if the splines have been greased around 40K and are you still on original clutch assembly?
 
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