• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

1996 K1100rs now comes time for starting !

B

bwoods1100

New member
Hello all. Thank you for your input thus far. I should preface this by saying I have great confidence when it comes to the mechanical aspects of reassembling this motorcycle. As for the electrical aspect .. not so much. I have properly installed the plug wires as discussed in a previous post. This bike hasn't been started in 4 years and sat with no oil and no gasoline (hooray for the latter). The motor sat with all seals and caps intact with the exception for the fuel line connection on the fuel rail(not the quick connect). Because of this, I can forsee the possibility of having to do some work on the injectors.. but I digress. I replaced all fluids and attempted to start the bike last night with fresh fuel and a brand new battery. I flipped the choke lever to the middle position, turned the key and heard the fuel pump enguage which sounded as it should. I pressed the starter (with the kill switch in the proper position). The motor turns and the starter works as it should however after 15 min of trying, no luck in getting it started. I will replace the spark plugs and also test for spark. Other than these things I have mentioned, does anyone else have any ideas ?
 
Before you change plugs, try to start it again for a minute or so (with a fully charged battery). This will rewet the plugs, if you have good fuel flow.

Then immediately see if plugs are wet. If they are dry, you have a fuel problem. If they are wet, they might be fouled and you need to change plugs.

Check for spark. Check the gap on the old plugs. Were they close to correct?

If you have fuel and spark, put the new plugs in and try again. If it doesn't start right up, don't keep trying as you'll just foul the new plugs. Search for other issues.

Is it trying to start at all, like popping at all?

Check the crankcase vent hose. A large vacuum leak like a completely torn vent hose might cause a no start.



:dance:dance:dance
 
What was disassembled on the bike?

Why was it disassembled?

Did it run before it was disassembled?

Were both fuel lines to the tank disconnected?



:dance:dance:dance
 
No pop no sputtering. The bike was owned and disassembled by a gentleman I know in order to replace the rear main seal (between the motor and transmission). Everything from the motor back was removed to include motronics, abs module, battery, alternator,starter, suspension, final drive, swingarm, transmission, body work, fuel tank, ignition coils, brake caliper, hall effect sensor cover, grips and front and rear master cylinder. It sat for 4 years or so until the individual sold it to me for a price I couldn't refuse. The bike did run and ran well prior to disassembly (I can verify this claim).
 
Why was the hall effect cover removed?

No reason to remove this unless he suspected something was wrong with the sensor before you got it.




:dance:dance:dance
 
Check the 2 hoses on the left front of the tank. The rear one is the one that should be connected to the fuel rail.

What was the result of the spark and plug check?




:dance:dance:dance
 
I tested the spark plugs and I got a good sparkfrom all wires. I have some fouling so I am picking up some more plugs. By chance do you know if fuel injectors are regulated by the motronic unit? If so is there a fuse that is inline with the fuel injectors ?
 
Nope. I spritzed some starting spray into the air intake and I got a good strong 20-30 revolutions out of it before it died. I've isolated to be a fuel delivery issue. I'm getting good fuel flow through the fuel rail so I know that isn't a problem right now. I believe the issue is the injectors. Is there an easy way to test them?
 
So with proper fuel pressure in the fuel rail and no noted obstruction.. one would think "There is no way ALL 4 injectors just magically went bad.. and if at least 3 or even two injectors were fuctioning and the ignition system was fuctioning then it would have to atleast pop or sputter...i believe it to be an outside factor contributing to the failure of all four injectors failing.. perhaps the hall effect sensor?
 
Sounds like you're not getting the signal to the injectors. Simplest way to check this is with a noid light. Plus it's a good excuse to add to your tool collection.

https://www.ebay.com/i/311834693542...1%26rvr_ts%3Da98cb7a51630abc667c47821ffff03f3

You plug one of these (whichever fits) into the connector that goes to the injector. If it flashes while your chranking it, you have the signal and its probably the injectors (seized or plugged). If no flash, no signal, so look at the Motronic or its wiring (this is sounding like it is your problem, but it would still be a real good idea to verify this with the noid lights to be sure).




:dance:dance:dance
 
Good idea. The local advance Auto had a kit. I just picked it up along with the necessary goodies to clean the injectors if need be.
 
It shouldn't matter which light you use, just find the one that has the pins most similar to what is on the injector.

I don't think you want to ever put a meter to any leads that go to the computer. I believe that I read that the incorrect load that a volt meter puts on the circuit could damage the computer.




:dance:dance:dance
 
Good idea. The local advance Auto had a kit. I just picked it up along with the necessary goodies to clean the injectors if need be.
 
Whoops, didn't mean to post that twice. I'm crossing my fingers they all work. I'm betting my money on the injectors being clogged. I'll post an update tonight.
 
Hooked up the light and all four plugs on the injectors work. I currently am cleaning out the injectors with laquer thinner and a syringe to provide pressure (also a 9v battery to actuate the electric valve). They seem pretty gunky.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
1971 R/75 issues/Timing help
Replies
4
Views
393
bigvic54
B
S
Refurbishment of low mileage 1993 K75
Replies
7
Views
2K
beemerguru
beemerguru
jtdiffen
Gently Dropped - Oil Hydrolock & Recovery
Replies
10
Views
497
pglaves
pglaves
S
r1250r starting problem
Replies
15
Views
1K
stevenpchristensen
S
RANBUSH
1994 K75S cranks, won't start
2
Replies
22
Views
3K
RANBUSH
RANBUSH
Back
Top