Symptom: Ignition cuts out when the engine heats up. When this happens the dash lights go out. Bean can and coil are new from EME. Fresh plugs.
Here's a list of what I suspected and fixed. She's still cutting out so I'm at my wits end. What have I missed?
I installed a new rebuild Bean Can. So I eliminate that as a cause. The fact that the ignition recovers quickly also seems to rule out the HES, which typically would stay shut off once heated up.
Suspect the green circuit.
Rewire the green circuit. Bypass the grody white right perch connector and the kill switch. The dash lights now stay on when the ignition cuts out.
Rewire the black circuit. Eliminate the branch out to the PCV solinoids. Assure good ground to the ICU. No change.
Swap out the ICU for a known good ICU. The engine, bean can, coil are at the temp where she cuts out. The bike makes it almost all the way home before the ignition cuts out.
Pull the tank. Put the LED tester on the coil green. Start the bike. Light stays on when ignition cuts out, so it is not the power supply.
I did notice a dip at the voltmeter when the engine stumbled while running. I’ll have to do some more theoretical work. I have ordered a new battery, because sometimes we go all the way around the bend then discover its the battery Even though the volt meter is showing 13+ volts – but that could be the alternator, not the battery. So **** howdy, if voltage is going to the ignition circuit, it should not shut down. What have I missed?
Here's a list of what I suspected and fixed. She's still cutting out so I'm at my wits end. What have I missed?
I installed a new rebuild Bean Can. So I eliminate that as a cause. The fact that the ignition recovers quickly also seems to rule out the HES, which typically would stay shut off once heated up.
Suspect the green circuit.
Rewire the green circuit. Bypass the grody white right perch connector and the kill switch. The dash lights now stay on when the ignition cuts out.
Rewire the black circuit. Eliminate the branch out to the PCV solinoids. Assure good ground to the ICU. No change.
Swap out the ICU for a known good ICU. The engine, bean can, coil are at the temp where she cuts out. The bike makes it almost all the way home before the ignition cuts out.
Pull the tank. Put the LED tester on the coil green. Start the bike. Light stays on when ignition cuts out, so it is not the power supply.
I did notice a dip at the voltmeter when the engine stumbled while running. I’ll have to do some more theoretical work. I have ordered a new battery, because sometimes we go all the way around the bend then discover its the battery Even though the volt meter is showing 13+ volts – but that could be the alternator, not the battery. So **** howdy, if voltage is going to the ignition circuit, it should not shut down. What have I missed?