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Thread: Loud clatter/ chatter when warmed up 1975 R90/6

  1. #16
    Mileage is a tough question. When I reset the trip meter, the odometer also changed from 42500 to 32500??

  2. #17
    bikertucker,

    First of all, they definitely don't "all do that", at least my R90/6 certainly doesn't. It sounds like maybe you have the original disc type crankcase breather valve that needs to be updated to the reed type. This is just a guess on my part, because I put in the later style breather before I ever heard my engine run the first time. I am going only from the way others have described the sound of the old breather.

    It is located under the starter cover, above the flywheel.


  3. #18
    #4869 DennisDarrow's Avatar
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    Paul Glaves must have a storage barn full of old information on "how to work on BMWs". Not seen an old Oak quote in a long time....lol...most around here have no idea who THAT even is...…...I agree with 1074 that if a PROPER SYNC of the carbs INCLUDING THROTTLE CABLE PLAY doesn't remove that noise then cam chain has to be the culprit. Especially in the higher RPM range. The turkey gobble noise could be bothersome also; but not typically as RPMs rise and it's more of a "honking" noise, thus the "turkey gobble" moniker.

    Worth NOT riding in the low RPM range as some folks like to do. These engines are designed to work best in the 4K plus range, so keep it there and you wont be bothered by that sound...…..Ride....Dont sit there and idle...…. Dennis

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by DennisDarrow View Post
    Paul Glaves must have a storage barn full of old information on "how to work on BMWs". Not seen an old Oak quote in a long time....lol...most around here have no idea who THAT even is...…...
    The Airheads Beemer Club continues to print one of Oak Okleshen's previously unpublished articles every month in the Airmail Magazine.

    Quote Originally Posted by DennisDarrow View Post
    I agree with 1074 that if a PROPER SYNC of the carbs INCLUDING THROTTLE CABLE PLAY doesn't remove that noise then cam chain has to be the culprit. Especially in the higher RPM range. The turkey gobble noise could be bothersome also; but not typically as RPMs rise and it's more of a "honking" noise, thus the "turkey gobble" moniker.
    OP said in his first post that the noise does not occur above 1500 rpm, and is most noticeable when idling at a stop sign or light.

    Quote Originally Posted by DennisDarrow View Post
    Worth NOT riding in the low RPM range as some folks like to do. These engines are designed to work best in the 4K plus range, so keep it there and you wont be bothered by that sound...…..Ride....Dont sit there and idle...…. Dennis
    Yes, except that is hard to do when the stoplight turns red, and he has to sit and listen to the clatter and chatter while waiting for the green light.

  5. #20
    Again, thanks for thoughts and info. You can bet I'll be reading and following through on info. Need to give a note of Thank You to kinterridge. He responded the day of my post, then rode to my place to investigate the noise issue. He's been uniquely helpful and generous. He also was suspicious of the disk type breather. With a strong sense of transmission woes. I did lay on the ground and push my old fat head under the bike, noise seemed louder from bottom of gearbox. Also will remove the cover and investigate disk type breather. But first new tires, a bit stupid test riding the bike on 30 year old tires. Plus the rear one is about bald.

  6. #21
    Sounds like a general project, but a nicely sorted R90/6 is a good ride and well worth resuscitating--essentially all of the useful power of a 90S, but without fussiness of too-cool-for-school paint.

  7. #22
    #4869 DennisDarrow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fxray View Post
    The Airheads Beemer Club continues to print one of Oak Okleshen's previously unpublished articles every month in the Airmail Magazine.



    OP said in his first post that the noise does not occur above 1500 rpm, and is most noticeable when idling at a stop sign or light.



    Yes, except that is hard to do when the stoplight turns red, and he has to sit and listen to the clatter and chatter while waiting for the green light.
    The search for perfection must be a total frustration...…...Acceptance of reality is serenity...…….God bless.....Dennis

  8. #23
    The crankcase breather valve has become my 1st suspect. Would like to update to new version. Problem is base of breather valve is frozen to the engine casting. Removed clip, spring, and washers. Have tried a punch and small hammer to break loose and rotate, no luck. Heat gun, same punch and hammer, no luck. Small torch flame, punch and hammer, no luck. Tried to work sharpie blade between vent base and casting no luck. Caution is needed, looks like any debris goes right into crankcase. Studied parts diagram, looks like it should just be seated and easily removable. Plus needs removed to install new vent. Any info or advice would be appreciated.

  9. #24
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Try a slide hammer. Loop some stout wire around the old breather and hook to a slide hammer. Heating around the base would be helpful as well.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  10. #25
    Good thought, I do have a slide hammer. Now....... where is it.

  11. #26
    Found issue to be wire large enough to take impact of sliding hammer, did not want to loop and thread upwards to be used as a link for the sliding hammer to attach to. Ended up using doubled up orange baling twine around each of the three sections of the base. This did allow me to hammer away with considerable upward force. But after 20 to 25 blows, no movement at all. Negative part of using baling twine is I can't apply too much heat or it will melt. Sprayed JB Blaster on base seam and taking a lunch break. STRIKE TWO.

  12. #27
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Time and penetrant are your friends...plus hot-cold cycling to help suck the fluid in. As stated on the forum before, the best penetrant is a 50-50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  13. #28
    Have both for that mixture.

  14. #29
    The smallest, cheapest slide hammer from Harbor Freight includes a hook that will fit inside the slots on the breather base. If you put it in one slot, hook the edge, give a couple light taps with the slide, then repeat in the next slot, and work your way around, the breather will pop out in less time than it took you to read this. Afterwards, the slide hammer is bound to be useful in the future for lots of other situations.

  15. #30
    Thanks fxray, May have found the problem but need wheels back and a test ride before I can report success or failure.

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