What color would you paint these parts for a 1971 R75/5?

I am restoring a 1971 R75/5.

I am not going to bother re-plating the parts that were plated but rather paint them with a gas resistant paint or regular quality paint with a clear coat that is fuel proof.
My question is what color would you paint the following parts for the most accurate restoration:
Foot peg mounts, Clutch lever arm (on the transmission), rear signal light mount, Front signal light mounts, kick stand. My parts are in pretty rough shape but it looks like they were plated in a cheap grade coating. It looks like silver paint would match pretty good. What do you guys think?

What about the carb. intake tubes? Mine are peeling black paint with silver plastic underneath with some yellow stains. Should these be painted gloss black, satin black, semi-gloss, silver??

Last but not least,...I may be getting a little too OCD here but what about the metal plugs and shafts that you can see on the engine block and transmission? Would you paint these steel color to keep them from rusting but to keep the original look or am I being ridiculous and just paint them silver or aluminum color to match the block?

Oh and what color for the twist throttle assembly and clutch lever assembly (not the actual lever) gloss, semi-gloss, or satin black? Same question for rear shock springs and adjustment arm.

For most of what you list I'd just clean up the aluminum - no paint needed.

Just a suggestion

The handle bar control mounts should be a satin black no clear coat. The steel plugs on the engine and transmission case should be satin black. Intake tubes should be silver, the silver needs to be non metallic.

The peg mounts, front and rear signal mounts, clutch arm and kick stand were all cad plated so you could get away with a dull non metallic silver pant and a flat clear coat.

For the most part the amount of work you want to do on a restoration and the purpose of the restoration should dictate the correctness of the restoration.

restoration

And there lies the difference between restoration and refurbishing. If you're refurbishing, then most of the parts can look good with flat silver paint. The handlebar lever assemblies came with a satin finish. The carb air horns were silver on the early models and changed to black sometime in 73. Still available.
If you are going for correctness then you might want to consider taking all the non aluminum metal parts and all the nuts and bolts to a plater for cadmium plating. Too many details to mention here but a complete set of hardware ran around $80 four years ago.

Thanks for the great helpful replies.
I want my end result to be very close to origonal with somethings better than origonal. For example I may upgrade the electrical components that you can't see. I am replacing stock plated fasteners with stainless, I am making some aluminum parts polished rather than semi polished.
I will be keeping the stock bolts, etc. incase I want to have them plated to go 100% stock looking in the future.
Basically I'm not going for concors but if a old BMW guy sees the bike I will get props for it being pretty accurate. Maybe do well in a couple local bike shows.
In the future as its value goes up I can spend more money making 100% accurate.

That's like tires. Do I get Metzeler street bike tires like everyone else or do I get block style tread retro style tires hmmmm....

Stainless steel spokes,...i'll be installing stainless spokes but once agsin,...that is really not origonal, were stainless spoke available from aftermarket in 1971??

Tiny details----
You can replicate the original fuel hose by getting the cloth braided hose in standard issue black and painting it silver or spraying silver on a sheet of newspaper and rolling the hose in the puddle.

James.A said:

Tiny details----
You can replicate the original fuel hose by getting the cloth braided hose in standard issue black and painting it silver or spraying silver on a sheet of newspaper and rolling the hose in the puddle.

Click to expand...

Oh the origonal was silver?

Regarding braided fuel lines, they tend to unravel over time. Someone passed a tip along that you can put large diameter heat shrink on the ends for new lines to prevent this. For obvious reasons, this probably shouldn't be done with used fuel lines.