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Thread: Y2K R1100RS - power loss, white smoke, no idle, oil leak. Monday a.m QB

  1. #1

    Y2K R1100RS - power loss, white smoke, no idle, oil leak. Monday a.m QB

    Riding home from Momís for Motherís Day, had a sudden loss of power when passing, then engine sputtering, and lots of white smoke. Fortunately made it to the side of the road, where I managed to get another 1/2 mile to an exit from the tollway and into a gas station. While waiting for a truck, got to examine the engine. Would turn over and start with a lot of white smoke while the ďfast idleĒ switch was up all the way, but soon sputtered out and died. (Did not try this a lot, didnít want to do any further potential damage.) No obvious loss of oil, cylinder heads felt the same temperature, seeping oil on the Right side where the cylinder contacts the engine. Not able to find an obvious point of leakage. Oil on right boot toe as well. Have 41,1xxx miles now, got the bike in 04/15 with 18,8xx miles, have been riding this year since March 4. Oil level was at 1/2 of sight glass. Have kept up on all the service intervals. Will be taking it to my guy for the 42K minor service, now, any thoughts on potential issue? After forum surfing, seems like it could be a blown gasket, piston ring, or rear engine seal failure. Or the lucky combo. Just trying to have an idea of what Iím in for with it.

    Thanks for taking a look!
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  2. #2

    Reply

    I am not speaking from experience with BMW motorcycles, but experience with automobiles. Sounds like the two likely scenarios are a blown head gasket or rings. I read that these engines run lean; a hot engine (as a result of a myriad of reasons) can cause a head gasket to blow. Same with rings.

    I could not see how it could be the rear main seal, but again I do not know the anatomy of a BMW engine in detail.

  3. #3
    Step one is to do a compression check. If you find low compression then you need to do a leakdown test.

    Were there any unusual noises associated with the loss of power?
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    Step one is to do a compression check. If you find low compression then you need to do a leakdown test.

    Were there any unusual noises associated with the loss of power?
    None to speak of, outside the sputtering sounds.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by frankjr View Post
    None to speak of, outside the sputtering sounds.
    It is time for wild guesses, but maybe you broke a ring or burned a valve. A compression check is critical. There are many other less expensive causes but you need to start here, with a compression check.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  6. #6
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    Many auto parts stores have free tool deposit required) programs, and a compression gauge in usually one of them.

    For a tool you will never (hopefully) use again, good option. Autozone and Orielly I have used.

    Rod

  7. #7
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    When doing the compression test as recommended, make sure you have the throttle wide open while cranking or you may get low readings.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    When doing the compression test as recommended, make sure you have the throttle wide open while cranking or you may get low readings.
    Indeed. You have to let the air get in before you can compress it.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    Indeed. You have to let the air get in before you can compress it.
    Funny how that works huh?
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  10. #10

    Update

    Got the call from the shop (Motoworks, in Chicago).

    Initial check and pressure testing revealed Left cylinder at 120, Right at 62, “with something rattling around.”
    The “good news” is that I’ll get the 42K service done 800 miles early while they tear it down and figure out the source of the rattle and pressure loss. ��

    Thanks for all the suggestions, but with my garage being the side of the curb, there’s no way I’d be able to get at this on my own. I’ll keep posting updates for the sake of future searchers.
    Last edited by frankjr; Yesterday at 09:04 PM. Reason: Clarity

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by frankjr View Post
    Got the call from the shop (Motoworks, in Chicago).

    Initial check and pressure testing revealed Left cylinder at 120, Right at 62, “with something rattling around.”
    The “good news” is that I’ll get the 42K service done 800 miles early while they tear it down and figure out the source of the rattle and pressure loss. ��

    Thanks for all the suggestions, but with my garage being the side of the curb, there’s no way I’d be able to get at this on my own. I’ll keep posting updates for the sake of future searchers.

    Even the left is low at 120.......
    I would want to see 150+

    Unless the throttle wasn't opened up.........
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

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