Y2K R1100RS - power loss, white smoke, no idle, oil leak. Monday a.m QB

Riding home from Mom’s for Mother’s Day, had a sudden loss of power when passing, then engine sputtering, and lots of white smoke. Fortunately made it to the side of the road, where I managed to get another 1/2 mile to an exit from the tollway and into a gas station. While waiting for a truck, got to examine the engine. Would turn over and start with a lot of white smoke while the “fast idle” switch was up all the way, but soon sputtered out and died. (Did not try this a lot, didn’t want to do any further potential damage.) No obvious loss of oil, cylinder heads felt the same temperature, seeping oil on the Right side where the cylinder contacts the engine. Not able to find an obvious point of leakage. Oil on right boot toe as well. Have 41,1xxx miles now, got the bike in 04/15 with 18,8xx miles, have been riding this year since March 4. Oil level was at 1/2 of sight glass. Have kept up on all the service intervals. Will be taking it to my guy for the 42K minor service, now, any thoughts on potential issue? After forum surfing, seems like it could be a blown gasket, piston ring, or rear engine seal failure. Or the lucky combo. Just trying to have an idea of what I’m in for with it.

Thanks for taking a look!

Reply

I am not speaking from experience with BMW motorcycles, but experience with automobiles. Sounds like the two likely scenarios are a blown head gasket or rings. I read that these engines run lean; a hot engine (as a result of a myriad of reasons) can cause a head gasket to blow. Same with rings.

I could not see how it could be the rear main seal, but again I do not know the anatomy of a BMW engine in detail.

Step one is to do a compression check. If you find low compression then you need to do a leakdown test.

Were there any unusual noises associated with the loss of power?

PGlaves said:

Step one is to do a compression check. If you find low compression then you need to do a leakdown test.

Were there any unusual noises associated with the loss of power?

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None to speak of, outside the sputtering sounds.

frankjr said:

None to speak of, outside the sputtering sounds.

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It is time for wild guesses, but maybe you broke a ring or burned a valve. A compression check is critical. There are many other less expensive causes but you need to start here, with a compression check.

Many auto parts stores have free tool deposit required) programs, and a compression gauge in usually one of them.

For a tool you will never (hopefully) use again, good option. Autozone and Orielly I have used.

Rod

When doing the compression test as recommended, make sure you have the throttle wide open while cranking or you may get low readings.

GSAddict said:

When doing the compression test as recommended, make sure you have the throttle wide open while cranking or you may get low readings.

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Indeed. You have to let the air get in before you can compress it.

PGlaves said:

Indeed. You have to let the air get in before you can compress it.

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Funny how that works huh?

Update

Got the call from the shop (Motoworks, in Chicago).

Initial check and pressure testing revealed Left cylinder at 120, Right at 62, “with something rattling around.”
The “good news” is that I’ll get the 42K service done 800 miles early while they tear it down and figure out the source of the rattle and pressure loss. ��

Thanks for all the suggestions, but with my garage being the side of the curb, there’s no way I’d be able to get at this on my own. I’ll keep posting updates for the sake of future searchers.

frankjr said:

Got the call from the shop (Motoworks, in Chicago).

Initial check and pressure testing revealed Left cylinder at 120, Right at 62, “with something rattling around.”
The “good news” is that I’ll get the 42K service done 800 miles early while they tear it down and figure out the source of the rattle and pressure loss. ��

Thanks for all the suggestions, but with my garage being the side of the curb, there’s no way I’d be able to get at this on my own. I’ll keep posting updates for the sake of future searchers.

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Even the left is low at 120.......
I would want to see 150+

Unless the throttle wasn't opened up.........

GSAddict said:

Even the left is low at 120.......
I would want to see 150+

Unless the throttle wasn't opened up.........

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A proper compression test is not as simple as throwing a gauge in a hole and seeing numbers. In fact, a proper compression test will tell you that things are good but not what the problem is.

dieselyoda said:

A proper compression test is not as simple as throwing a gauge in a hole and seeing numbers. In fact, a proper compression test will tell you that things are good but not what the problem is.

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Which is why the advice should always be to do a compression test and then if compression is low to follow that with a leak down test.

Update 2

Got the call this morning. Piston dragged some failed component over the cylinder wall beyond salvage. At least it didn’t fuse, right? Replacements on order.

Makes me wonder: could this be tied to the the tip over/hit and run which occurred last autumn? That is, the tip over created some misalignment which then lead to component failure and subsequent breakdown? (Bike was parked, knocked over onto right side by someone trying to park, landing on side case, bar end, and, of course, cylinder head.)

I’ve always maintained the oil at appropriate levels and had no other impacts to that side in the 3 years I’ve had it. Could it otherwise be just a matter of age/mileage?

Second guessing myself now on the sequence of events.

If during the tip over enough oil leaked into the cylinder to create hydrostatic lock then yes, damage could have occurred. Normally this shows up right away, but nothing says it had to. This would be a rare occurrence. I have never heard of it happening but then I live under a rock a lot of the time. Normally you bend a rod and have low compression.

TIP if ever you find your bike on the side, it is wise to remove the plugs before cranking. Then you can reinstall and start it.

Rod

Jeez, if you had to have a cylinder replaced as well as what amounts to a complete rebuild you will man your wallet. I think if it t'were me I would give some thought to parting her out or maybe someone would buy the whole thing for parts especially if the transmission is good. I guess that's what i would do just sell the thing as is. Parting out is one big hassle, no thanks.