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Thread: New to me 1995 R 1100 GS

  1. #1

    New to me 1995 R 1100 GS

    Greetings fellow Oilheads!

    I have been active on the Airhead side but just acquired a nice Oilhead, so this is my first post on this forum. About the bike, it is a 1-owner, well maintained ride, 61,000 miles, all service records included. It has not been ridden much in the last years, so it seems that last fluid changes have been done about two years ago. Here is what I want to do and a few questions I have:

    Change engine, transmission and final drive oil
    Set valves
    Check/set rocker arm end play (at my Airhead I had to loosen the cylinder studs to do this, is that the same for the Oilhead?)
    Splines - was a bit of work to do those at the Airhead and seems even more involved here. Is it necessary if the bike runs and shifts perfectly smooth?
    Throttlebody sync - Again, bike runs fine, should I do it anyways?

    Thanks for your input! I plan to do all repairs myself, just doing it step by step while reading a lot
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1995 R1100GS, 1973 R75/5 www.R75slash5.com, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  2. #2
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Vancouver, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    2,720
    Welcome to the land of 4 valves, new age suspension and better brakes than you ever had on your airheads! I still own my 2 airheads but the oilhead is another deal altogether.
    In answer to your questions:
    - Yes, absolutely change all the fluids including the brake fluid!
    - Yes, check the valve settings. Not an airhead... so get you a set of these: https://www.beemerboneyard.com/wurthoilhead.html
    Using two feeler guages in both intakes and exhaust will allow you to adjust the valves more accurately. Time spent getting those four valves as perfect as you can is going to pay you back in smoothness in spades.
    - By all means check the end play before setting the valves.
    - Spline lubes for oilheads should be done at 40K intervals according to the wisdom here. Yes, it's a bit more involved than the airheads and the gear box needs to come out to do it properly. There are a few different methods including removing the final drive and drive shaft tunnel all together which can save time. It assumes you don't need to service anything in there of course. LOTS of info here on spline lubing oilheads. No you cannot just pull back the gear box like an airhead but I never did that anyway. It just produces half baked results IMO and does not allow thorough cleaning of the splines first. Too much left covered up and inaccessible. Check your mileage and PO service records if you can, if not, plan for a late fall or winter project. It's time to ride right now...
    - If the valves turn out to be bang on (it happens a lot on these bikes!) and the bike idles and runs smoothly, leave the throttle bodies alone. But if you adjust the valves then you need to synch the throttle bodies. Start by removing the BBS (Big Brass Screws) and clean them thoroughly, then spray throttle body cleaner down the hole they come out of. They get crud on them and make the idle rough or hard to adjust if not totally clean.

    Check your PMs. I am going to send you a link you need.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  3. #3
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sechelt, British Columbia
    Posts
    2,681
    At 61,000 miles you may be due for a Hall Sensor wiring failure.
    Review your records and see if has been replaced already.
    If not, you can purchase a new one from Beemer Boneyard or Euromotoelectrics.
    Alternatively I can rewire yours with High Temperature Teflon wire good for the lifetime of the bike. PM me if interested.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by happy wanderer View Post
    Welcome to the land of 4 valves, new age suspension and better brakes than you ever had on your airheads! I still own my 2 airheads but the oilhead is another deal altogether.
    In answer to your questions:
    - Yes, absolutely change all the fluids including the brake fluid!
    - Yes, check the valve settings. Not an airhead... so get you a set of these: https://www.beemerboneyard.com/wurthoilhead.html
    Using two feeler guages in both intakes and exhaust will allow you to adjust the valves more accurately. Time spent getting those four valves as perfect as you can is going to pay you back in smoothness in spades.
    - By all means check the end play before setting the valves.
    - Spline lubes for oilheads should be done at 40K intervals according to the wisdom here. Yes, it's a bit more involved than the airheads and the gear box needs to come out to do it properly. There are a few different methods including removing the final drive and drive shaft tunnel all together which can save time. It assumes you don't need to service anything in there of course. LOTS of info here on spline lubing oilheads. No you cannot just pull back the gear box like an airhead but I never did that anyway. It just produces half baked results IMO and does not allow thorough cleaning of the splines first. Too much left covered up and inaccessible. Check your mileage and PO service records if you can, if not, plan for a late fall or winter project. It's time to ride right now...
    - If the valves turn out to be bang on (it happens a lot on these bikes!) and the bike idles and runs smoothly, leave the throttle bodies alone. But if you adjust the valves then you need to synch the throttle bodies. Start by removing the BBS (Big Brass Screws) and clean them thoroughly, then spray throttle body cleaner down the hole they come out of. They get crud on them and make the idle rough or hard to adjust if not totally clean.

    Check your PMs. I am going to send you a link you need.
    Got it thanks, very helpful indeed!

    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    At 61,000 miles you may be due for a Hall Sensor wiring failure.
    Review your records and see if has been replaced already.
    If not, you can purchase a new one from Beemer Boneyard or Euromotoelectrics.
    Alternatively I can rewire yours with High Temperature Teflon wire good for the lifetime of the bike. PM me if interested.
    I have to look through the service records again, the PO was very particular about his maintenance, maybe this has been done already. Anyways, thanks for pointing it out!
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1995 R1100GS, 1973 R75/5 www.R75slash5.com, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

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