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Thread: Clock lens remove/replace

  1. #1
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    Clock lens remove/replace

    1994 R100RT.... I need to remove and replace the clock lens. It has a large blister on it and I can hardly read the clock.

  2. #2
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Removing the clock will be some fun...you'll need to read into the fairing from the sides to undo the knurled nut and relax the tension on the bracket holding the clock in place:

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=62_0248

    I suspect the lens will be firmly fixed to the body of the clock by a crimped ring around the edge. It takes some skill and maybe some tools to uncrimp and recrimp the ring so it still looks OK and is water tight. There are various places that can do this work...see the speedometer section in the link in my signature line. An alternative might be to buy a replacement from various sources...I bought a replacement voltmeter for my fairing from Bass Pro...they had good instruments designed to withstand the vibration and wet environment of boats.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Removing the clock will be some fun...you'll need to read into the fairing from the sides to undo the knurled nut and relax the tension on the bracket holding the clock in place:

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=62_0248

    I suspect the lens will be firmly fixed to the body of the clock by a crimped ring around the edge. It takes some skill and maybe some tools to uncrimp and recrimp the ring so it still looks OK and is water tight. There are various places that can do this work...see the speedometer section in the link in my signature line. An alternative might be to buy a replacement from various sources...I bought a replacement voltmeter for my fairing from Bass Pro...they had good instruments designed to withstand the vibration and wet environment of boats.

    Thank you for your reply. It sound like it is better to replace it. I do not have the tools for this job. Iíll heading to the internet to find the replacement.

  4. #4

    repair

    Quote Originally Posted by flaboy58 View Post
    Thank you for your reply. It sound like it is better to replace it. I do not have the tools for this job. Iíll heading to the internet to find the replacement.
    It's actually not that hard. The trick is to get a flat blade screwdriver of the correct size that allows you to "unfold" the crimp to remove the lens and cover. Reassembly is the reverse.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RPGR90s View Post
    It's actually not that hard. The trick is to get a flat blade screwdriver of the correct size that allows you to "unfold" the crimp to remove the lens and cover. Reassembly is the reverse.
    Really.. Iíll try this and let you the outcome. Thanks for the input. Any suggestions on removing the faring?

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    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Do you have to remove the fairing? Aren't there some pockets on the sides of the fairing that would allow you to reach around and remove the attachments? You might have to use a mirror and a flashlight to get a sense of things, but it should be possible to do all this "blind". The knurled nut and bracket hold the clock in place. There would then be a power and ground wire...maybe a wire for lighting...they hopefully these would just pull off.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  7. #7
    No need to remove the fairing to get to the clock. Find the knurled nuts with an inspection mirror, and then reach up behind the dash panel to remove the wires and get to the nuts that hold the gauge's bracket on. Smaller hands are useful here.

  8. #8
    Registered User STEVENRANKIN's Avatar
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    A tight fit

    Getting to the clock's knurled nuts is a very tight fit but can be done without taking the fairing off. A small hand works best. LOL. St.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Do you have to remove the fairing? Aren't there some pockets on the sides of the fairing that would allow you to reach around and remove the attachments? You might have to use a mirror and a flashlight to get a sense of things, but it should be possible to do all this "blind". The knurled nut and bracket hold the clock in place. There would then be a power and ground wire...maybe a wire for lighting...they hopefully these would just pull off.
    I am going to put new fork springs in and need to take off the speedo for repairs. I am also replacing the headlight and the interment wire harness. So I figured it would be easier to remove the faring. Iím also replacing the windshield.

  10. #10
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    I would imagine that removing the fairing is a bit of a Chinese puzzle...have to start on the edges and work towards the middle. While the fiche diagrams aren't necessarily installation diagrams, they can give you an idea of the components involved. I've heard of the "spider" which is the central mounting element for the fairing.

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...RT&mg=46&sg=63
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

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    Steering stem grease

    While you are in there....With the fairing off, this would be the perfect time to do this oft-ignored maintenance. Unless you know otherwise, assume that it has never been done. This is especially true on a full-fairing bike such as an RT or RS. The original grease turns to a stiff waxy substance over 35 years. With luck the bearings and cones just need cleaning and not replacement.
    Russ
    Last edited by beemeruss; 05-08-2018 at 05:36 AM. Reason: additional detail

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    Quote Originally Posted by beemerus View Post
    While you are in there....With the fairing off, this would be the perfect time to do this oft-ignored maintenance. Unless you know otherwise, assume that it has never been done. This is especially true on a full-fairing bike such as an RT or RS. The original grease turns to a stiff waxy substance over 35 years. With luck the bearings and cones just need cleaning and not replacement.
    Russ
    Thanks for the heads up.

  13. #13
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    Steering stem lock

    At the risk of playing pile-on, also consider removing the lock assembly for cleaning in solvent and lubing with graphite for the same reason. It is a 15 minute job and will make it work like new.
    Russ

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by beemerus View Post
    At the risk of playing pile-on, also consider removing the lock assembly for cleaning in solvent and lubing with graphite for the same reason. It is a 15 minute job and will make it work like new.
    Russ
    I have already done this. But THANK YOU! I believe if your in the neighborhood you may as well do it right.

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