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Thread: 1986 K75 right turn signal intermittent

  1. #1
    Registered User jad01's Avatar
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    1986 K75 right turn signal intermittent

    So, I've been having an issue initiating my right turn signal (front and back). Sometimes when I press the right signal button, it works, other times I have to press it several times to get the signals to work. Sometimes it just won't do so at all. The left signal is 100% reliable, as is the switch on the right cluster that turns the signals off. I am pretty certain it is the switch itself.

    Full disclosure: the switches are the original ones, and I am thinking about replacing them all since they are very sun-faded. However, I am curious if they can be cleaned effectively. I have a small can of Radio Shack brand Control Contact Cleaner and Lubricant... would that work? Can anyone shed some light () on how to go about this for me (or if it is worth pursuing)?
    Jim
    '78 R80/7 and '84 R100RS (Blues Brothers), '86 K75C (Icy Hot)
    '90 and '93 Mazda Miatas (Jelly Bean and Red Hot), '97 Nissan XE PU (Mighty Mouse)
    '96 Giant Upland (big Kendas, baby!)

  2. #2
    I find I need to spray cleaner in these switches at least once a year. I use electrical contact cleaner followed by WD40. I expect your cleaner will do the trick very well.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  3. #3
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    I've used the Radio Shack stuff on a couple of TV tuners (before the digital age), an old Harmon-Kardon stereo (function selector pushbuttons), and the pushbuttons in the panel of an alarm system - it's worked pretty well.
    But if there is too much oxidation on the contacts, they'd have to be lightly polished to revive them.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls1150 View Post
    I've used the Radio Shack stuff on a couple of TV tuners (before the digital age), an old Harmon-Kardon stereo (function selector pushbuttons), and the pushbuttons in the panel of an alarm system - it's worked pretty well.
    But if there is too much oxidation on the contacts, they'd have to be lightly polished to revive them.
    My experience has been that applying the cleaner and then repeatedly using the switch several times usually scrubs the contacts clean. Especially on those sliding action contacts. The starter button switch is more difficult because it just bridges two contacts with no sliding action.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  5. #5
    Registered User jad01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    My experience has been that applying the cleaner and then repeatedly using the switch several times usually scrubs the contacts clean. Especially on those sliding action contacts. The starter button switch is more difficult because it just bridges two contacts with no sliding action.
    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls1150 View Post
    I've used the Radio Shack stuff on a couple of TV tuners (before the digital age), an old Harmon-Kardon stereo (function selector pushbuttons), and the pushbuttons in the panel of an alarm system - it's worked pretty well.
    But if there is too much oxidation on the contacts, they'd have to be lightly polished to revive them.
    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    I find I need to spray cleaner in these switches at least once a year. I use electrical contact cleaner followed by WD40. I expect your cleaner will do the trick very well.
    OK, thank you both! I'll give it a try. Reading this, it sounds like I can spray it into the switch without having to disassemble the housing or dismount the switch (at least to start).
    Jim
    '78 R80/7 and '84 R100RS (Blues Brothers), '86 K75C (Icy Hot)
    '90 and '93 Mazda Miatas (Jelly Bean and Red Hot), '97 Nissan XE PU (Mighty Mouse)
    '96 Giant Upland (big Kendas, baby!)

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by jad01 View Post
    OK, thank you both! I'll give it a try. Reading this, it sounds like I can spray it into the switch without having to disassemble the housing or dismount the switch (at least to start).
    I can usually work it in from the outside. But, one screw will allow you to take the switch loose and spray directly where you can see most of the contacts.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  7. #7
    Still plays with trains. tinytrains's Avatar
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    If you have to resort to taking the switch gear apart to polish the contacts, do it in a box! Springs and contacts fly all over the place and are easily lost.

    If you need pieces, dealers often have old used units cheap.

    Ask me how I know.
    2009 R1200R Roadster

  8. #8
    Registered User jad01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    I can usually work it in from the outside. But, one screw will allow you to take the switch loose and spray directly where you can see most of the contacts.
    Ok, thanks Paul!
    Jim
    '78 R80/7 and '84 R100RS (Blues Brothers), '86 K75C (Icy Hot)
    '90 and '93 Mazda Miatas (Jelly Bean and Red Hot), '97 Nissan XE PU (Mighty Mouse)
    '96 Giant Upland (big Kendas, baby!)

  9. #9
    Registered User jad01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinytrains View Post
    If you have to resort to taking the switch gear apart to polish the contacts, do it in a box! Springs and contacts fly all over the place and are easily lost.

    If you need pieces, dealers often have old used units cheap.

    Ask me how I know.
    Ha- I believe it! That's why I started this thread... I disassembled the kill switch on my /7 some time back... that little sucker was a pain to get back together and I did manage to lose (and thankfully find) the little ball bearing when I did it... no desire to repeat that process. Thank you for the tip.
    Jim
    '78 R80/7 and '84 R100RS (Blues Brothers), '86 K75C (Icy Hot)
    '90 and '93 Mazda Miatas (Jelly Bean and Red Hot), '97 Nissan XE PU (Mighty Mouse)
    '96 Giant Upland (big Kendas, baby!)

  10. #10
    Registered User jad01's Avatar
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    Hi all,
    I got this done this weekend- seems to have worked great. I did loosen the switch from the bar so I could get to the back of the switch as Paul suggested, which did allow better access to the contacts for a couple of the switches. Thank you again for the insight before I fiddled with this task!
    Jim
    '78 R80/7 and '84 R100RS (Blues Brothers), '86 K75C (Icy Hot)
    '90 and '93 Mazda Miatas (Jelly Bean and Red Hot), '97 Nissan XE PU (Mighty Mouse)
    '96 Giant Upland (big Kendas, baby!)

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by jad01 View Post
    Hi all,
    I got this done this weekend- seems to have worked great. I did loosen the switch from the bar so I could get to the back of the switch as Paul suggested, which did allow better access to the contacts for a couple of the switches. Thank you again for the insight before I fiddled with this task!
    Great. I like success.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

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