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I Screwed Up. Suggestions?

Stock screws (or screws modified to be rounded on the end) are vital. However, even with stock screws, on the screws that thread into the tank I find that it helps to avoid ANY misalignment of tupperware and threaded hole. I look at the alignment and press or pull on the tupperware with one hand until there is perfect alignment BEFORE inserting the screw, and hold it there until the screw is threaded in. If the tupperware is not aligned well (and it never is to start with) there are off-center pressures applied to the screw that will strip out or cross thread the threaded hole in the tank.
 
GSAddict said:
It's all in the way you hold your tongue...........;);)
Click to expand...

At the risk of mentioning something everyone already knows: I used to tell my son, when starting anything with threads (screws, jar lids, etc) to turn them backwards until you feel the "click" when the threads line up.
 
K7GLE said:
At the risk of mentioning something everyone already knows: I used to tell my son, when starting anything with threads (screws, jar lids, etc) to turn them backwards until you feel the "click" when the threads line up.
Click to expand...

Especially applies to threads in plastic parts.
 
I also made a hex driver for fairing screws by cutting the end off a large old screwdriver. I sawed the end off the appropriate fairing screw hex key to get a length of hex stock, then drilled the end of the old screwdriver 1/8 inch dia by plenty deep & hammered the metric hex key into the end of the screwdriver.

Having a long handled driver that can be pushed on & that will hold a fairing screw in desired alignment really helps. It is the one tool I take with me on my R1100RT. Of course there are commercial equivalents but the extra length really helps. Otherwise it becomes agonizing to drive and align things with only the metric factory/tool kit hex key.
 
nrpetersen said:
I also made a hex driver for fairing screws by cutting the end off a large old screwdriver. I sawed the end off the appropriate fairing screw hex key to get a length of hex stock, then drilled the end of the old screwdriver 1/8 inch dia by plenty deep & hammered the metric hex key into the end of the screwdriver.

Having a long handled driver that can be pushed on & that will hold a fairing screw in desired alignment really helps. It is the one tool I take with me on my R1100RT. Of course there are commercial equivalents but the extra length really helps. Otherwise it becomes agonizing to drive and align things with only the metric factory/tool kit hex key.
Click to expand...

That's just too much work for me... I have a couple of these one of which is left in the glove box of my 1100RT at all times. Never an issue with angles or over torquing which happens with ratchets and other tools easily if not careful. This tool is around 8 bucks on eBay and maybe even cheaper at your FLAPS or tool vendor.
s-l640.jpg
 
I have a fairly complete set of those ball-end drivers. I also have a rather complete set of T handle drivers with a straight-cut end. For starting fasteners I prefer the straight cut drivers because that eliminates most any tendency to wobble. Once started the ball end drivers are wonderful, as they are for removing fasteners.
 
Torex fasteners make things much easier. My FJR uses allen head fasteners for the body work and I have replaced most with torex fasteners; made things much easier. I truly dislike allen head hardware.
 
PGlaves said:
I have a fairly complete set of those ball-end drivers. I also have a rather complete set of T handle drivers with a straight-cut end. For starting fasteners I prefer the straight cut drivers because that eliminates most any tendency to wobble. Once started the ball end drivers are wonderful, as they are for removing fasteners.
Click to expand...

I have a full set of the Wera Ball end drivers. I would be lost without them.
 

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