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Wheel cleaning gizmo

V

v8chevyman

New member
So I've owned my latest R1200RT (2014) for a little over two years and have added about forty-thousand kilometers to her. What a great machine!
There are very few times I don't arrive home and smile slightly as I remind myself what a fantastic job the "enginerds" in Bavaria have pulled off.

There are so many plusses I don't know where to start.
*Effortless torque / acceleration (especially with the gear assist)
*Weather protection / comfort (living on the "Wet coast" of Canada, year-round riding is completely doable.)
*On-street presence. Whether cagers think I'm a cop or what I'm not sure, but I definitely garner more respect on the RT than other bikes I ride.

On the negative side, I'd struggle to think of any. If I were to nitpick I'd say the following could be improved:-
*Side stand position. I still haven't got used to this. It's so easy to click down into gear at the same time the size 10 searches for the stand. My "muscle memory" mitigation is that I now always pull in the clutch at the same time. As I said - nit-picking…
*GPS / Wonderwheel integration. It seems that our "dirty" colleagues on the GS side of things, get rather more functionality (cellphone integration etc) than we get on the touring side. I can live with this though.
*Gear change from neutral to 1st is exceptionally loud / clunky. It's a bit embarrassing when people look round (I suspect they think I've only pulled the clutch half-way in…)

I'd rather ride my bike than wash it, but when I occasionally throw a bucket of water over her, I struggle cleaning the wheels. The front is particularly tricky, given the discs and the fact that the weight is biased to the front wheel whilst on the centre stand.

The solution?
Well I'm hoping that better craftspeople than me chime in here with a much better version than my "pre-prototype ghetto version".
It's a start though and it seems to work well...
The clamp "pump effort" is reasonable and sure beats trying to lift the bike one handed whilst trying to fit something under it.
Clearly it's a little dangerous propping up the bike using the exhaust but the forces seem reasonable as far as I'm concerned. If your significant other is more useful than mine, perhaps you can have her push down on the top box while you pop the prop underneath - your choice...
After "pumping up" the bar-clamp, the prop is added to secure in the up position. I've then taken the weight off the bar-clamp to be sure the clamp doesn't "let go".

Feel free to offer (constructive) criticism and suggestions on how it can be improved. This is my first "proper post" so be gentle with me!!

Rubber side down!

Alasdair

1st Pic
Bar-clamp riser (modified to add a 45mm diameter "yoke" for the exhaust pipe)
Stand from some 4x4" post material, necked down for better access to bottom of engine

2nd Pic
As applied - both front and back wheels are slightly off the ground

Materials required:-
*Cheapo bar-clamp (Harbor Freight or Princess Auto for those of us north of the border)
*Short length of 2 x 4 (left over from the fencing job that's been neglected in favour of riding)
*Short length of 4 x 4 (as above)
*3"x 8 decking screws (it's getting repetitive now)
*Bandsaw (to cut yoke profile for exhaust)
*Beer
 

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v8chevyman said:
Feel free to offer (constructive) criticism and suggestions on how it can be improved. This is my first "proper post" so be gentle with me!!

Rubber side down!

Alasdair

1st Pic
Bar-clamp riser (modified to add a 45mm diameter "yoke" for the exhaust pipe)
Stand from some 4x4" post material, necked down for better access to bottom of engine

2nd Pic
As applied - both front and back wheels are slightly off the ground

Materials required:-
*Cheapo bar-clamp (Harbor Freight or Princess Auto for those of us north of the border)
*Short length of 2 x 4 (left over from the fencing job that's been neglected in favour of riding)
*Short length of 4 x 4 (as above)
*3"x 8 decking screws (it's getting repetitive now)
*Bandsaw (to cut yoke profile for exhaust)
*Beer
Click to expand...

Your post encouraged me to think about propping the front wheel off the ground occasionally as well. So far, I just move it by hand taking a little weight off as I try to rotate it.

However, I have a scissors jack that seems easier to use to than your props. A small hydraulic jack would work as well. I guess if I didn't already have a jack, I might do something like your solution.
 
Option 1: https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Bull-For...r=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=pitbull+front+wheel+lift

Option 2: In a convenient spot on your driveway, drill two 5/8” or 3/4 holes in the concrete, about 20-24” apart. From the hardware store get two 5/16” x 1.5” or 2.0” eyebolts, two 5/16” threaded female all-thread connectors (about 3” long), two 5/16” x 1.5” bolts, two 5/16” fender washers, and some Devcon or JB epoxy. Cover one side of the washers with masking tape. Into one end of each all-thread joiner, thread the short bolt with a fender washer—the bolt length should be such that the taped side of the washer is pulled tight up against the joiner. Cover the other open end of the joiner with tape, or plug it with a material that can decompose, like paper. Mix epoxy, fill holes halfway full, and start inserting the plugged end of the joiner into the hole. Adjust epoxy level as needed such that epoxy is flush with concrete and fender washer is suspending the joiner in the hole. Set for 24hrs, remove bolts and washers.

To use, thread eyebolts into joiners and park bike with luggage rack centered between eyebolts. Attach two MC tie-down straps to eyebolts and rack, sit on passenger seat and cinch tie-downs. Front wheel is now in the air for cleaning or changing. Works for front or rear on almost any MC.

When done, unscrew eyebolts and store. Driveway is once again flush for shoveling or snow blowing. If you are worried about dirt or water getting in holes just pop in an automotive body panel retainer—another hardware store item—or thread in a button-head bolt.

You can do it in metric, but the hw costs would be much higher...
:)

Just another approach to the problem,
DG
 
I also use a scissor jack with a soft piece of wood on the top. I do not use it to clean wheels but do use it when I have a bike on my lift and need to take the front wheel off. Seems it is a simpler way of getting the job done.
 
I don't have a wethead but the issue is the same on my 07

I use a fork lift jack when I need to get the front wheel off the ground



The bike is so stable that I can remove both wheels at the same time

 
Your technique is impressive.

With my bikes, I always wash the wheels first. I start with the R1100RT, front wheel first (while centre stand is deployed) with the three cases on the bike. The weight of the cases is enough to raise the front wheel. Before washing the rear wheel of the 1100, I remove the cases and that wheel is off the ground. This technique may or may not work with your bike; it certainly does not with my K100RT. With the K on the side stand, I wash portions of each wheel, rinse, then roll the bike either forward or back along the driveway to expose the final dirty section for washing and rinsing.
 
Lee said:
The rear tire may touch the ground when only using a front stand.
If the back tire touches, the bike may life off the centerstand.

For cleaning I remove the regular holder on the front wheel stand and slide in hitch pins. This will raise the front tire slightly off the ground on a K1300S and R1200RS.
Click to expand...

I use a Hornig stand which is adjustable, The rear wheel doesn't touch the ground.
Great for winter storage to avoid flat spot too
 
Clunky

I own a 2016 R1200rt. I agree is a great bike , I also agree with most of the same dislikes that you have. The way that they clunk into 1st gear is almost as bad as a HARLEY. You don't notice it as bad on a Harley because their so noisy anyway.
 
Lee said:
Adjustable would be a nice feature.
Click to expand...

There is also different adapters for different needs

HTML: 
With these adapters, an existing lifter can be converted in order to be used for another purpose.

Part no. 2031: Rear adapter, lifter will be used as a rear lifter (for dual-sided swingarm)
Part no. 2080: Front adapter rocker, lifter will be used as a front lifter (under the brake caliper/fork tube)
Part no. 2080II: Front adapter mandrel, lifter will be used as a front lifter (between fork tube and brake caliper)
Part no. 2052: Racing adapter M8 for rear swingarm, lifter will be used as a rear lifter (rear swingarm with screwed-on bobbins)
Part no. 2080III: Front adapter mandrel with pin, lifter will be used as a front lifter (under fork tube, with drill from below for fixation, with pin on mandrel)

https://youtu.be/rwdVZfRAO6E?t=108
 
v8chevyman said:
*GPS / Wonderwheel integration. It seems that our "dirty" colleagues on the GS side of things, get rather more functionality (cellphone integration etc) than we get on the touring side. I can live with this though....
Click to expand...
This discrepancy has been elimintated with the 2017+ RT. I belive it was actually a wiring issue as the sensors and CAN bus are common to both, but the GS was given additional new LIN bus wiring in 2013 that the RT didn't get until 2017.

v8chevyman said:
*Gear change from neutral to 1st is exceptionally loud / clunky. It's a bit embarrassing when people look round (I suspect they think I've only pulled the clutch half-way in…)...
Click to expand...
This is common to all BMW Boxers and, contrary to the concerns of some, is simply an absence of sound-deadening, and concern by the engineers regarding the sound. BMW Boxer trannies last as long or longer than others, but the sound is less altered/muted than most others. Engagement, and selection "for me" is okay but not stellar, but certainly good. It is a trait that some like/love and others dislike/loath. Like I mentioned, the sound and clunkiness just normal unmuffled mechanical sounds that don't hurt anything, but they are a trait that some dislike.

v8chevyman said:
The front is particularly tricky, given the discs and the fact that the weight is biased to the front wheel whilst on the centre stand.

The solution?
Well I'm hoping that better craftspeople than me chime in here with a much better version than my "pre-prototype ghetto version".
It's a start though and it seems to work well...
The clamp "pump effort" is reasonable and sure beats trying to lift the bike one handed whilst trying to fit something under it.
Clearly it's a little dangerous propping up the bike using the exhaust but the forces seem reasonable as far as I'm concerned. If your significant other is more useful than mine, perhaps you can have her push down on the top box while you pop the prop underneath - your choice...
After "pumping up" the bar-clamp, the prop is added to secure in the up position. I've then taken the weight off the bar-clamp to be sure the clamp doesn't "let go"...
Click to expand...
Looks nice.

For a very quick temporary solution, I simply put 40-50 pounds on the rear passenger's seat and the front wheel is in the air and won't come down unless significant pressure (perhaps 10+ lbs) is put on the handlebars. I live in an area that gets snow and ice in the winter so I've always got 50lb bags of sand and a few 20lb bags of salt around to use, but I've used my scuba-diving weight-belt, a tool box, etc., in the past.

Glad you're enjoying and appreciating the RT. Certainly my favourite bike so far.
 
Another front wheel lift solution:

I just have a small cheap bottle jack ($10?)that I put a piece of soft wood on top and jack up under the front of the oil pan. I jack till the rear wheel touches down and add another 1/2 pump to just compress the rear suspension a bit for stability.

cleaning the front wheel, changing brake pads or taking off the wheel for tire changing is easy
 
wheel cleaning tip

One inexpensive trick I use for cleaning wheels (and other tight places) is to wear those cheap cloth gloves when washing and use them with my fingers to get into all the nooks and crannies.
 
I think I would favor using a jack to lift the front wheel off the ground. Or maybe just go to the side stand and roll the bike to rotate the front tire/wheel. I guess, on second thought, I would just roll the bike and forget about the jack. Can't be that hard to return a wethead back to the center stand.

As far as the "clunk" when shifting from neutral into first goes....try pulling in the clutch and blip the throttle to around 2.5K revs then when engine is back at idle revs shift into first. Just a quick blip is all you need. All is done with clutch fully disengaged and only takes a second or two. And hey, it works every time on an FJR. This technique frees up at least one friction disc which is all you need.
 
AlanColes said:
This discrepancy has been elimintated with the 2017+ RT. I belive it was actually a wiring issue as the sensors and CAN bus are common to both, but the GS was given additional new LIN bus wiring in 2013 that the RT didn't get until 2017.
r.
Click to expand...


Have you tested this personally? Neither of our local dealers seem to be aware of this update, nor did they seem to be aware of the difference in the implementation differnce in the LC GS and RT models from 2015. I have one of each and they didnt seem to even understand what I was referring to at first until I showed them!
 
cheap and easy.....er

v8chevyman said:
So I've owned my latest R1200RT (2014) for a little over two years and have added about forty-thousand kilometers to her. What a great machine!
There are very few times I don't arrive home and smile slightly as I remind myself what a fantastic job the "enginerds" in Bavaria have pulled off.

There are so many plusses I don't know where to start.
*Effortless torque / acceleration (especially with the gear assist)
*Weather protection / comfort (living on the "Wet coast" of Canada, year-round riding is completely doable.)
*On-street presence. Whether cagers think I'm a cop or what I'm not sure, but I definitely garner more respect on the RT than other bikes I ride.

On the negative side, I'd struggle to think of any. If I were to nitpick I'd say the following could be improved:-
*Side stand position. I still haven't got used to this. It's so easy to click down into gear at the same time the size 10 searches for the stand. My "muscle memory" mitigation is that I now always pull in the clutch at the same time. As I said - nit-picking…
*GPS / Wonderwheel integration. It seems that our "dirty" colleagues on the GS side of things, get rather more functionality (cellphone integration etc) than we get on the touring side. I can live with this though.
*Gear change from neutral to 1st is exceptionally loud / clunky. It's a bit embarrassing when people look round (I suspect they think I've only pulled the clutch half-way in…)

I'd rather ride my bike than wash it, but when I occasionally throw a bucket of water over her, I struggle cleaning the wheels. The front is particularly tricky, given the discs and the fact that the weight is biased to the front wheel whilst on the centre stand.

The solution?
Well I'm hoping that better craftspeople than me chime in here with a much better version than my "pre-prototype ghetto version".
It's a start though and it seems to work well...
The clamp "pump effort" is reasonable and sure beats trying to lift the bike one handed whilst trying to fit something under it.
Clearly it's a little dangerous propping up the bike using the exhaust but the forces seem reasonable as far as I'm concerned. If your significant other is more useful than mine, perhaps you can have her push down on the top box while you pop the prop underneath - your choice...
After "pumping up" the bar-clamp, the prop is added to secure in the up position. I've then taken the weight off the bar-clamp to be sure the clamp doesn't "let go".

Feel free to offer (constructive) criticism and suggestions on how it can be improved. This is my first "proper post" so be gentle with me!!

Rubber side down!

Alasdair

1st Pic
Bar-clamp riser (modified to add a 45mm diameter "yoke" for the exhaust pipe)
Stand from some 4x4" post material, necked down for better access to bottom of engine

2nd Pic
As applied - both front and back wheels are slightly off the ground

Materials required:-
*Cheapo bar-clamp (Harbor Freight or Princess Auto for those of us north of the border)
*Short length of 2 x 4 (left over from the fencing job that's been neglected in favour of riding)
*Short length of 4 x 4 (as above)
*3"x 8 decking screws (it's getting repetitive now)
*Bandsaw (to cut yoke profile for exhaust)
*Beer
Click to expand...





https://jet.com/product/Bike-Motorc...uuErtQVpFRBQg2iVhMONwgFk7gcke4JQaAkd7EALw_wcB
 
pianomanla said:
Have you tested this personally? Neither of our local dealers seem to be aware of this update, nor did they seem to be aware of the difference in the implementation differnce in the LC GS and RT models from 2015. I have one of each and they didnt seem to even understand what I was referring to at first until I showed them!
Click to expand...
Yes, I have Steve.

The Nav-V and Nav-VI will provide all the "My Motorcycle" data on a 2013+ GS (all GSWs), but will only do so on RTs that are 2017 and newer.

As for Cell phone integration, IIRC, this is a Nav-VI item that was not available on the Nav-V. It works fine on my 2014 RTW with my Nav-VI.

Unfortunately, my computer needs a reboot, it is saying that my file directory that holds my PDF copies of that gear is corrupted, so I can't double-check, sorry.
 
Lift front wheel.

I install my top box and add hand weights, presto, front end raises. Wife never uses them anyway :)
 
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