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Torquing inboard pivot pins, R1100RT

bp@sr9

bp@sr9

#81822
Hello all,
I'm getting geared/psyched up to undertake the dreaded spline lube. Just previewed Chris Harris' video (nice job, thanks Chris),all the while I'm thinking I can do this-yeah! THEN we get to re-installing the inboard pivot pins,he pulls out a special socket (by BMW) for the job (without giving a part #) . I'm thinking this is prolly expensive and not a readily available unit. Considering I'll prolly do this but once, I'm hoping for an alternate method/tool. Only thought I have is using a crows foot or flair wrench on the torque wrench, but then I'd need to compensate for the altered length of the wrench-anybody know that formula? Any other ideas? tyvm b :scratch
 
There are plenty of online sites to calculated applied torque with various extensions and angles. One note is that you keep the extension and the axis of the wrench at 90 degrees, there is no alteration of the applied torque...the reading will be correct.
 
I do it this way.

All threads have to be spotless with all residual loctite removed.
Pins and locknuts should thread smoothly

Torque the pin to 7nm and mark position with a felt marker
Back off and repeat again to confirm mark stops in the original spot
Thread locknut on and torque to 160nm
Confirm the pin has not moved.

This method works well for me - the key is clean threads.

I have the special socket and don't use it, I find it cumbersome.

It's also handy to be able to see at a glance if for any reason the pin has moved in the future.
 
A flare nut wrench or crow's foot will not go deep enough. You need a socket. A friend with a mill can make you one in short order from a thin-walled deep well 27mm socket. Another method, similar to @GSAddict is to set the torque on the pin and use blue Locktite. Then come back the next day and torque the locknuts with a conventional socket. They will not move. It has been proven that Locktite isn't needed on the pins, but its use is recommended by BMW and allows this method.

Or you can use a Vortex wrench on the locknuts, but you'd have to estimate the torque (which is a no-no for many and SOP for others)

vortex.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Airheads also need a thinwall 27MM socket to lock the swingarm pivot pins.
I bought an extra 27MM socket and simply beveled the edges with a grinder to fit and also mark the pin after torque to insure it doesn't move.
I also try to balance frame to swingarm spacing on each side when reinstalling the pivot pins.
 
GSAddict said:
I do it this way.

All threads have to be spotless with all residual loctite removed.
Pins and locknuts should thread smoothly

Torque the pin to 7nm and mark position with a felt marker
Back off and repeat again to confirm mark stops in the original spot
Thread locknut on and torque to 160nm
Confirm the pin has not moved.

This method works well for me - the key is clean threads.

I have the special socket and don't use it, I find it cumbersome.

It's also handy to be able to see at a glance if for any reason the pin has moved in the future.
Click to expand...

Excellent description of the procedure. I've done this myself with success.
 
community knowledge

You guys made my day. I love this forum. Now I'll wear a smile into my shop today. And i are smarter too! :dance
 
I have found that the pins don't move, and that tool isn't necessary. This is because the preload pushes the pin outward, and the locknut pulls it outward, too. The pin has force on the threads all the time.

It is extremely helpful, though, on the K12 left swingarm pivot, because they have this very complicated system where the locknut pushes inward and unloads the adjuster, allowing it to turn freely again. The tool (or anything that accomplishes the same thing) immobilizes the part that would otherwise try to move.
 
AntonLargiader said:
It is extremely helpful, though, on the K12 left swingarm pivot, because they have this very complicated system where the locknut pushes inward and unloads the adjuster, allowing it to turn freely again. The tool (or anything that accomplishes the same thing) immobilizes the part that would otherwise try to move.
Click to expand...

One would have to as why so complicated? Especially since they use the conventional system on the rear and the other series.
 
I think it's a lot stronger.

For those that are unfamiliar with this, on the R1100 there is a bearing that fits into the swingarm and the pin threads through the frame and protrudes into the bearing, like the Airheads and the K75/100/1100.

On the K12, the pin threads into the swingarm (it is removable so you can get the swingarm out) and the bearing is in a carrier that threads into a BIG hole in the frame. Then a threaded lock ring goes on the outside to lock the adjustment of the bearing. The main difference in the system is that the K12 bearing is larger. The whole system is stout as hell; it's just harder to assemble because the locking scheme shifts the bearing across the threads which doesn't happen with the R1100 design.
 
AntonLargiader said:
I think it's a lot stronger.

For those that are unfamiliar with this, on the R1100 there is a bearing that fits into the swingarm and the pin threads through the frame and protrudes into the bearing, like the Airheads and the K75/100/1100.

On the K12, the pin threads into the swingarm (it is removable so you can get the swingarm out) and the bearing is in a carrier that threads into a BIG hole in the frame. Then a threaded lock ring goes on the outside to lock the adjustment of the bearing. The main difference in the system is that the K12 bearing is larger. The whole system is stout as hell; it's just harder to assemble because the locking scheme shifts the bearing across the threads which doesn't happen with the R1100 design.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the insight
 
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