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Need help getting my rt 1100 running again.

The lower sensor.

I do hear the pump turn on. Am thinking you may be right about the hes sensor. Am just too much of a rookie to attempt that replacement. Is there a easy way to test the hes sensor and fuel pump. Hate to throw money at it to find out it was something different. I try a hot shot box to jump bike today to rule out battery but still no fire. I did remove the pump some from tank but stopped short when it didn't seem right. I reinstalled gasket and tighten back up with no P roblom with gasket lining up.
 
The lower sensor.

Think I mite just buy battery first than order your hes sensor and try to attempt this job. Hope I don't f it up or it be a parts bike before I even get a year out of it.. really not liking BMW right now..should stayed with what I knew.
 
I do hear the pump turn on. Am thinking you may be right about the hes sensor. Am just too much of a rookie to attempt that replacement. Is there a easy way to test the hes sensor and fuel pump. Hate to throw money at it to find out it was something different. I try a hot shot box to jump bike today to rule out battery but still no fire. I did remove the pump some from tank but stopped short when it didn't seem right. I reinstalled gasket and tighten back up with no P roblom with gasket lining up.

The pump gets turned on initially for 1 second by the Motronic to pressurize the fuel rail. The hall sensor is not in play at this point.
Once the engine is cranked, the lower hall sensor (if working correctly) sends a pulsed signal to the Motronic and two things happen. The fuel pump gets turned on (and stays on while the crank is turning) and the injectors pulse fuel into the intakes.

It is important that you know that you have fuel pressure 43 +/- psi
If there is little or no pressure and the pump runs, then a split U hose inside the tank is likely.
If there is correct fuel pressure then the Hall sensor assy is suspect.

All original hall sensor assemblies (HES) from '93 to late '02 oilheads were wired with the wrong temperature rated insulation. Repeated heat cycles combined with higher mileage causes the insulation at the sensor plate (the hottest area) to crumble causing the signals to short circuit. From late '02 on, BMW (thru Bosch) upgraded to higher temp wire.
The fix for this is to purchase a later style HES with the upgraded wire or have yours rewired with Teflon wire good for the life of the bike. In any event if yours is original, it will fail, they all eventually do.

The fact that the bike suddenly quit leads me to suspect the HES.

The part is not hard to change, I can send you a .pdf if you give me your email address.
 
Since you have cranked the bike and have no spray pattern I would also suspect two possibilities other than the HES sensor wiring or the sensors themselves. Since you can hear the pump whirring briefly when you turn the key it is working however:
- the fuel filter may be clogged and not letting fuel get through (less likely because it was sudden failure)
- one of the fuel hoses has split open or blown off (more likely as it was sudden failure)
- the bottom sensor on the HES plate assembly is blown or the wiring has deteriorated to the point that one sensor is shorting out. GSAddict is the best option as he has repaired TONS of these for many of us (two for me!) and not only does a bang up job but has a very stringent QC process. He rewires them with teflon wire that will outlive the bike.

The easiest way to really narrow this down is to pull the tank, pull out the fuel/filter plate and investigate the filter and hoses. This seems like a daunting task the first time you do it but it is really not hard at all after you have done it once or seen it done.

There is a high concentration of BMW riders in Maryland and most likely a local BMW club. Find them using Google, attend one meeting and let everyone know you need help and I bet about five guys will offer to come over and show you how to pull that tank and replace the lines and filter if anything is wrong with them.

If not, have a go yourself!
Here is a pretty good take on removing the fairing. http://armchairbiker.com/bmw-r1100rt-frame-replacement-2-fairing-removal/

Once you get in there here's a video on changing the filter on an oilhead. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1bl3H89xtS8
 
Since you have cranked the bike and have no spray pattern I would also suspect two possibilities other than the HES sensor wiring or the sensors themselves. Since you can hear the pump whirring briefly when you turn the key it is working however:
- the fuel filter may be clogged and not letting fuel get through (less likely because it was sudden failure)
- one of the fuel hoses has split open or blown off (more likely as it was sudden failure)
- the bottom sensor on the HES plate assembly is blown or the wiring has deteriorated to the point that one sensor is shorting out. GSAddict is the best option as he has repaired TONS of these for many of us (two for me!) and not only does a bang up job but has a very stringent QC process. He rewires them with teflon wire that will outlive the bike.

The easiest way to really narrow this down is to pull the tank, pull out the fuel/filter plate and investigate the filter and hoses. This seems like a daunting task the first time you do it but it is really not hard at all after you have done it once or seen it done.

There is a high concentration of BMW riders in Maryland and most likely a local BMW club. Find them using Google, attend one meeting and let everyone know you need help and I bet about five guys will offer to come over and show you how to pull that tank and replace the lines and filter if anything is wrong with them.

If not, have a go yourself!
Here is a pretty good take on removing the fairing. http://armchairbiker.com/bmw-r1100rt-frame-replacement-2-fairing-removal/

Once you get in there here's a video on changing the filter on an oilhead. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1bl3H89xtS8
Today I removed the tank,and received a call from a member I contacted,he said to put tank on ,turn key on see if there's a pressure than crank to see if fuel flows out,we'll all was good there,I clean up the connector with some contact cleaner ,reset some fuses and whamo, she cranked over,really strange but happy to hear it fire up,guess that small piece of paper got blown though system, I looked at the hes wiring that I could see ,the covering was nice and tight around wires,I still want to learn how to pull this hes wire sensor and ship out to gs addict, PDFs file says pull starter,but I seen a video if you set it to tdc you can slide a Allen hey Down slot,,really want try this but worried I mite f it up,since I got it running finally today.Member said it mite be the outside air temp failing,too. Need to watch video and read up some more before I go tear it out. Anybody in Maryland who could help give me a shout.. Thank you to everybody so far this week. I learn how to pull fairing and gas tank off,and troubleshoot some things.
 
You really don't have to pull the starter to access the TDC hole. i did the first time but then realized one could access thst area without doing so. After you expose the HES area, before you remove it make a scribe mark against the engine case indicating the edges of the unit. I bought a new replacement, even made the box with leds to indicate TDC, ending up right on marks I scribbed.
 
Hey that's great you found the problem. Corrosion on the tank connector is not unusual on early oilheads. Even though it's under a fairing and tank it is still exposed to rain mist and the crap that comes with that moisture. Many recommend DeOxit for these. I use it and it works well to clean them up plus it leaves a protectant film behind.

As mentioned above removing the HES is pretty straightforward. The connector is up high on the right side. The HES plate itself is under the front cover, under the bottom pulley. Once you get the alternator belt out of the way by loosening the 13mm alternator bolts you remove the pulley. Scribing it's location before removing the plate as mentioned makes re installing it easy. I've found timing the bike afterwards often results in not even having to adjust the HES plate position but I check it anyway. If it is off shut the bike off and just tap the plate to and fro, fire it up again and get it set perfect then tighten it down. Do not overdo the belt tension. One of the 3 13mm bolts is part of an adjuster you use to tension it and the other two are just to fasten it down. Two wrenches, two hands needed. You should be able to twist the belt 90 degrees with your fingers and then it's almost too tight to move farther without some effort. That is about right.

Even though the outside sheathing of the HES wiring looks OK from the outside it's the inside that is the problem. It always starts rotting away just above that small clamp on the HES plate that holds the harness down. You need to cut it open to see the damage. Given that it is a 97 if it has not been replaced it is amazing it has not failed already. Not a matter of if with this problem but when. This is what my 96RT looked like when it finally failed in the Rockies near Hope BC at a very awkward time. I was coming down the "big hill" surrounded by two tandem dump trucks when the bike quit running in the pouring rain. A real pucker moment for sure. Eventually limped down to Hope BC and then had to be towed 90 miles home. Notice the wiring from the sensors themselves is perfect but the "organic soy bean" or whatever the heck it is just rotted out. All EU automotive wire was changed so it could be recycled easier but they messed up when they used the stuff for this very hot location and application.
P1010517.jpg
 
All this yammering I'm doing about rotting wire reminds me... Do you still have OEM rubber brake lines on that bike? If so, you need to replace them with Speigler teflon brake lines. These are often called stainless brake lines but only the sheathing is stainless braided wire. The lines themselves are teflon and will outlast the bike. The rubber ones were again made with crappy rubber that deteriorates. Here is just one thread on this issue which affects all bikes with rubber lines. R1200XX and up all have braided teflon lines now. I guess BMW got the message. https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?61887-More-on-BMW-brake-line-failures&highlight=rubber+brake+lines

Too bad GSAddict's photos got taken hostage by Photo Bucket now the most despised "free" image hosting site on the net. There are a couple of photos in that link that show mild damage compared to GSAddict's photos but then again he's installed so many Speigler lines on customer bikes now it's just common practice on any oilheads of that era. The added bonus of replacing them is rock hard brake lever. The difference is amazing. Once this is done, replacing brake fluid once a year and flushing the ABS unit at the same time (easy peasy on the 1100, more involved on iABS models) is the best way to trouble free brakes and a must do if you live in a high humidity area like the wet coast. I'm guessing Maryland is pretty humid too.
 
Your "yammering" typically includes good information. Please continue! :thumb
My bike has the brake lines replaced,am going to attemp to pull the hes next,my question is I keep seeing to add adhesive ,not sure where that would go. Thank you for all the help,I can't wait til it warms up some to start pulling it off.
 
My bike has the brake lines replaced,am going to attemp to pull the hes next,my question is I keep seeing to add adhesive ,not sure where that would go. Thank you for all the help,I can't wait til it warms up some to start pulling it off.

Some come with adhesive, others not. I've never added it, I replace the pulley assy as it came from the fatherland.
 
Some come with adhesive, others not. I've never added it, I replace the pulley assy as it came from the fatherland.

The sole purpose of the adhesive is to hold stuff together until the center bolt is tight. Some history: The original belts and pulley came with a pulley spot welded to the slotted HES trigger. The welds broke. The revised setup was a two piece setup without the welds. BMW specified "Black Max", a rubberized super glue to hold the two piece pulley arrangement together. Once installed the clamping pressure held everything together. Get some and use it. It is no big deal.
 
The sole purpose of the adhesive is to hold stuff together until the center bolt is tight. Some history: The original belts and pulley came with a pulley spot welded to the slotted HES trigger. The welds broke. The revised setup was a two piece setup without the welds. BMW specified "Black Max", a rubberized super glue to hold the two piece pulley arrangement together. Once installed the clamping pressure held everything together. Get some and use it. It is no big deal.

The OE manual spec's "instant adhesive" ie: crazyglue.
 
As I mentioned, Loctite "Black Max" is a black, rubberized super glue. The more recent "gel" type super glue formulations would work just fine.

So am glueing the pully and the black inner pully with the groove in it,than line up on the shaft. Am hoping it will make more sense when I take it apart.
 
So am glueing the pully and the black inner pully with the groove in it,than line up on the shaft. Am hoping it will make more sense when I take it apart.

My memory of my struggles with the two part pulley is fuzzy but I seem to recall what Paul mentioned; a weld. I also have some recollection of there being a sort of key that had to be in the correct position but when you went to put the pulley back on the rear part would move around making this dodgy if you were not careful. I mixed up a tiny amount of JB Weld, cleaned both parts with rubbing alcohol and stuck them together real good. Never a problem after that! Paul Glaves' and GSAddict's glue solution is probably easier though. Had I known crazy glue would work I would have chosen that. Less messy...
 
This should clarify things.

.....
 

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