Not having any luck finding a helper in the anonymous book under Maryland area,just want a bmw guy on hand when I set tdc on bike and mark hes sensor before pulling off,.
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Need help getting my rt 1100 running again.
- Thread starter 442bmw
- Start date
Not having any luck finding a helper in the anonymous book under Maryland area,just want a bmw guy on hand when I set tdc on bike and mark hes sensor before pulling off,.
gsaddict
Pepperfool
If you follow the Re&Re sheets I emailed you won't have any problems.
TDC is for locking the crank with the pin to loosen/torque the pulley bolt.
Marking the edge of the HES plate can be done in any crank position.
roger 04 rt
New member
If all else fails, you can put the HES in the center of its adjustment range and at most you'll be a degree or two off.
+1.
The hardest part of this whole exercise is finagling the HES connector out past the engine and alternator. If I can do it, ANYONE can.
Am finally pulled the cover off and looked at the pulleys,am going reread the procedure,can't rember if I needed to pull tank,but didn't seem like a lot of room to get to the alt bolts,so I stop and came home, I also going to attemp to just script the plate before pulling it,,are you sure I can do this without setting the crank at tdc,,I was going just put it in gear to break the pulley nut loose. Thanks for any insight and help,,really hoping I don't f it up,,can't find one person to respond in this anomous book,,you sure they call it anomous cause nobody answers you when you call.
gsaddict
Pepperfool
The tank has to be removed to get at the plug.
You must lock the crank at TDC as per the instructions I sent you.
Not only is it very difficult to break the pulley bolt loose by putting in gear, you will not be able to apply the correct torque to the bolt when you reassemble.
The result will be the pulley and cup will spin on the crank and the engine will not start.
The edge of the hall sensor plate must be marked prior to removing. (again please refer to the instructions I sent you)
This will facilitate replacing the plate in the exact same spot to preserve correct timing.
pglaves
#13338
This a very simple task if the correct steps are followed. Lock the flywheel at TDC. I use a 6mm hardened Allen wrench. Mark the HES plate and case with a scribe. Remove the belt and pulley.Remove tank and disconnect the HES connector. Snake wire loose. Remove HES. Proceed with a new HES or send off for re-wiring.
Install in reverse order. Do it right, it is easy. Take shortcuts, and the results are on you!
Install in reverse order. Do it right, it is easy. Take shortcuts, and the results are on you!
Hes
Listen to the experienced people, read the directions, and look for videos from Chris Harris, northern Illinois bmw riders etc. Than after watching the videos the written instructions will make more sense. If you don't follow GSADDICT instructions perfectly ( I did not) and get the hes close to original position the bike will still start and run.
Also as you will have the spark plugs out to make the engine turn easier so you might as well replace plugs and adjust the valves, more to read and more to watch.
Last have fun you are saving lots of money doing these maintenance things yourself while working on bike take pictures document The disassembly makes the assembly process much easier.
Listen to the experienced people, read the directions, and look for videos from Chris Harris, northern Illinois bmw riders etc. Than after watching the videos the written instructions will make more sense. If you don't follow GSADDICT instructions perfectly ( I did not) and get the hes close to original position the bike will still start and run.
Also as you will have the spark plugs out to make the engine turn easier so you might as well replace plugs and adjust the valves, more to read and more to watch.
Last have fun you are saving lots of money doing these maintenance things yourself while working on bike take pictures document The disassembly makes the assembly process much easier.
Well I took the hes off today,,I found the window hole to look for tdc marking but couldn't seem to see any marking,remove a spark plug ,slide the tool into the spot above starter,keep some light pressure on it,than crank the pulley til the pin slip into the flywheel,recheck the window,seem to look a letter in the hole,so I moved on to loosen the alternator,removed the belt but there was a step that I didn't see on the instructions,there was a bar with a 17 mm bolt on top and a Allen screw connection on bottom,reminded me of a brake line cause it had banjo washers but the belt couldn't be removed til it was removed,than I took off pulley,scribed the hes sensor ,removed the 3 Allen screws,unplug the wire harness,I did break the metal tab that cover the wire up,,no direction there,so I thought you just bend it back Alittle to get the wire out of the rubber slot but it snapped, I lifted up the alternator tighten one bolt to hold it up and slide the cable out,,directions were good except for couple steps left out,,so keep an eye out gsaddict it be shipped out Monday for repair and il pay pay you Sunday. The one question I have is, with the tab and the slot ,I already glue the two pieces and marked where it was before I glue it,but when I put the tab lined up to the slot it didn't seem to slide into the slot,seems flush to the slot ,is it suppose to go down into the slot when I bolt it back on or just lined up with the slot.
gsaddict
Pepperfool
The metal tab is held in place by a M6 allen bolt which you loosen and turn to one side. It should be replaced.
Order this part: 12 11 1 341 535 HOLDER
The tab must go down into the crank slot. It needs to be bent slightly up.
Attachments
send me one of those tabs back when you ship my hes sensor back, shipped out and PayPal you today,,thank you,if you have one laying around,probably could make one,
Well ,my new rebuilt hes sensor was put on ,everything went well,bike fired right up ,hardest part was installing the Tupperware.thank you again gs addict for rebuild and directions and everybody who helped me get though the repair,great learning experience for newbie, my bike has 97000'miles, am looking for a oil additive that may be added to the oil to help in quieting down and smoothing out the shifting. Is there any good products on the market.
happy wanderer
Day Dreaming ...
Good to hear you are up and running again. There is no need for special additives. I use Castrol 20/50 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil in all my BMW bikes. For the gearbox and final drive I use Castrol 80-90 GL-5 rated Gear Oil. The brand does not matter; the weight and GL-5 rating are essential.
Danger: Oil thread in progress....
