'02 K1200RS Brake Warning Light

2002 K1200RS. Brake warning light rapidly flashing and general warning light on steady. Manual says one or more ABS/brake circuits not working, etc. Fluids are at proper level. Rear pads are worn and rear rotor has heavy wear too. Both pads and rotor need replacement.

Question is are the worn pads/rotor enough to trigger this type of warning or is there something else I should be looking at?

Low battery voltage, stuck rear brake pedal switch. Had it all on my K1200RS...

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Thanks, I'll check both.

When you first turn on the ignition switch you should hear the fuel pump engage for a few seconds then stop, followed immediately by the sound of the brake servo pump momentarily activating as the system self-check runs. If you have an issue on either front or rear system that interferes with successful self-test completion you’ll get the flashing lights. Things to check include:

1. Battery voltage and condition. Early symptoms are the alternating flashing lights when you first start out, but after riding a few miles a stop/shutdown/restart clears the display. Probably not your issue as it sounds like your warning lights ar3 not alternating.

2. Fluid levels at both wheel circuit reservoirs on the RH side of bike, just to the rear of the coolant reservoir tank. Two caps/reservoirs and the inside one is a stinker to check/fill with our removing the body panel behind the saddlebag mount. Again, results in alternating lights.

3. Bad microswitches at hand or foot lever, or a microswitch that is not being allowed to return/release completely.

4. Insufficient free play on the rear master cylinder actuating pushrod. Wear in the brake system can be a factor on this one.

5. Rear master cylinder leaking or failing to hold pressure.

If your pads and rotor are shot that’s a starting point but you’ll want to check these other items as well. That, plus a flush and fill on the brake system.

Best,
DG

I can't think of any mechanism on these bikes that would sense worn pads and/or discs so as to trigger the warning lights. Obviously good brake hardware is critical to your safety, but I think this warning is coming from elsewhere.

Bike is at the local shop right now. I'll up-date when they identify the problem.

As GT Rider mentioned, the rear reservoir has two sections, the inner one can be missed or hard to see. If the rear pads & rotor are so badly worn it could be a low level in that inner section.

Well the problem is a dead ABS pump. New one is cost prohibited, so dealer is looking at options for a good used or rebuilt one. While I'm not currently a happy camper, the Brick does have 82k on it and things do wear out. So I can't complain too much.

I'd sure as hell complain........not that it would do you any good.
Due to the staggering costs of replacements, and dearth of replacement options, these ABS/boost pump units should be designed for "life of the vehicle." I've seen far too many of them fail.
Their entire reason for existence is to answer the question no one has asked: how do you reduce the required braking effort? BMW's move away from the power brakes in subsequent bikes tells us all we need to know.

All that said, if you are willing to forgo having ABS on the bike, a lot of riders, when faced with your situation, opt to simply bypass/remove the failed ABS unit and return to a standard (non-ABS) braking system.

There is a place online which refurbished them.

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JeffDiCarlo said:

I'd sure as hell complain........not that it would do you any good.
Due to the staggering costs of replacements, and dearth of replacement options, these ABS/boost pump units should be designed for "life of the vehicle." I've seen far too many of them fail.
Their entire reason for existence is to answer the question no one has asked: how do you reduce the required braking effort? BMW's move away from the power brakes in subsequent bikes tells us all we need to know.

All that said, if you are willing to forgo having ABS on the bike, a lot of riders, when faced with your situation, opt to simply bypass/remove the failed ABS unit and return to a standard (non-ABS) braking system.

Click to expand...

I'll keep the non-ABS replacement on the table. Wasn't aware that was an option, thanks.

https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-fte-abs2/ you might want to contact them if you have a 02+ bike.

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DasTeknoViking said:

https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-fte-abs2/ you might want to contact them if you have a 02+ bike.

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Click to expand...

At this time they are not able to rebuild the iABS (ABS III) unit on a 2002 K1200.

https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-fte-abs3/

r184 said:

I'll keep the non-ABS replacement on the table. Wasn't aware that was an option, thanks.

Click to expand...

If interested you can watch videos on the DIY procedure. Often called an ABS-etomey.
Check the googly thing.

JeffDiCarlo said:

Often called an ABS-etomey.
Check the googly thing.

Click to expand...

Do you have a link?
This is the results for ABS-etomey

https://www.google.com/search?q=ABS-etomey&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1

If you go to DuckDuckGo.com and enter the search term: ABS removal BMW K1200RS
you’ll get a number of YouTubes plus other info.

Best,
DG

Hi there,
Any thoughts on what are the pros and cons of a iABS bypass?
Dean

henri2015 said:

Hi there,
Any thoughts on what are the pros and cons of a iABS bypass?
Dean

Click to expand...

Pro - you save money

Con - no ABS

LOL, I guess I am over thinking this. Me like to save money.

Bike's resale value will take a hit, but probably not by the $2000-3000 it'll cost for a new unit.
With more direct plumbing, the brake lever gets firmer.