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My Generac generator is another matter, it constantly charges the battery with a true trickle charge that boils the battery. I’m trying to figure out how to rewire the controller so I can use a MinnKota there too.

The trickle charger killed the battery on my Generac. The trickle charger was located inside the transfer switch. I simply removed it and replaced it with a temperature compensated maintainer located inside the Generac enclosure where the battery is. I wired the 110v for the charger back into the transfer switch and powered it from the same place the trickle charger was powered from.
 
You should consider that when you rewire your plug directly to the battery on your in-warranty BMW in order to use an aftermarket charger, you might be giving your dealership cause to void your warranty should an electrical problem arise.

If you are worried it would void your warranty, have your dealer install it.
 
That CTEK I provided a link to has a "mode" button. One of the modes is a motorcycle symbol - for smaller, motorcycle batteries. The charger can handle any size battery, but it will be kind to smaller motorcycle batteries. I believe the CTEK is a "maintainer."

<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/HFzYNvj6_OY" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Harry

+1 on the CTEK. I have been using them for three year now, they work great.
 
The trickle charger killed the battery on my Generac. The trickle charger was located inside the transfer switch. I simply removed it and replaced it with a temperature compensated maintainer located inside the Generac enclosure where the battery is. I wired the 110v for the charger back into the transfer switch and powered it from the same place the trickle charger was powered from.

Thanks Lee, That’s what I’m trying to do too but the charger is in the generator controller. On mine though, the charging line appears to be two way and the controller somehow detects that it is disconnected and won’t start. A diode seems to block the charging but allow the battery signal to drive the controller. I may have to find a spot on the circuit board to cut just the charger line or go with the diode.
 
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Pigtail direct to the battery- Yes......for all the reasons already stated. Very good on the dealers that do this as a matter of course :thumb

I have found it really pays to purchase the best (intelligent-built in logic) charger you can get. The best example I can relate, while not in a bike, is my motorhome. The motorhome came with a 12V converter which is/was basically a transformer that converted 110V to 12V. Although it really did work as a battery charger, it wasn't kind to the batteries.
Through a season, I had to constantly monitor the batteries (2- group 27's) for their electrolyte level and at the end of the season I would have consumed around 2-3/4 gallons fluid. I replaced the converter with an intelligent charger and now the fluid consumption is less than 1/2 a cup.
I have also found that the smaller the battery, the less tolerance for abuse. Today in my charging cycle I will be charging the battery in the ATV and a 8-D.
OM
 
You should consider that when you rewire your plug directly to the battery on your in-warranty BMW in order to use an aftermarket charger, you might be giving your dealership cause to void your warranty should an electrical problem arise.

i’ve Bought 4 bikes from Long Beach Bmw, everyone has come wired with a SAE connector direct to battery
There should not be a issue if you wire your connector correctly using a fused type plug
 
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