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Advice on replacing brake lines - 2004 R1100S w/ABS

R

ridgetopboy

New member
There's a lot of posts about the need to replace the brake lines on older bikes because the rubber ones degrade over time causing brake problems or even failure. I would like to replace my original rubber lines with a set of SS braided lines but I am wondering how that can be done without introducing a lot of air into the system. Is there a specific procedure for changing the brake lines out w/o introducing air into the system? Your advice would be appreciated.

Mark Wialbut
2004 R1100S (ABS)
 
That would be amazing, but pretty much impossible. If you’re going to replace the brake lines you will have to bleed out the air.
 
yes but...

m_stock10506 said:
That would be amazing, but pretty much impossible. If you’re going to replace the brake lines you will have to bleed out the air.
Click to expand...

I realize I will have to bleed air out regardless but with the "Evo" ABS a lot of air may be a real problem and replacing the lines themselves will it seems introduce a lot of air. I'm going to replace all the bleeder nipples with speed bleeders too so hopefully that will make it a bit easier.
 
Impossible without introducing air.
Actually easier to purge Iabs wheel sides (power) over conventional.
It will be of great benefit to have a GS911 to confirm the system is properly bled (one of the tests it offers)
Just did one today that had to be re-bled in the front control circuit. Lever felt fine but the system still had a very small amount of air in it.
 
Didn't See Fluids Mentioned

Changing brakes without discarding the fluid is what i wondered about. That would be a sort of non issue wouldn't it?? The fluid is not reusable in any way, looks like the new lines might even specify a completely different fluid grade. Then only a sealed new container is eligible to put in any part of a brake system, and that has to match the existing fluid exactly. No last years top off, not even close to that, with any open brake fluid container. The better filler valves for sure though, and the new SS lines probably use a newer fluid, so time to clean the calipers while it's apart.

Nothing is so complicated as an "easy to do" fix, Hah !! ---- Cal
 
When I do a set of lines I use a vacuum bleeder and suck all the lines clear including bottoming out the caliper pistons.
Then I start disconnecting lines, wiping any remaining drips up with a wet terry towel rag.
Mess is kept at a minimum.

Fresh DOT4 is the fluid you should use. If you do the job correctly there will be very little (if any) old fluid in the systems.
 
ridgetopboy said:
............ I'm going to replace all the bleeder nipples with speed bleeders too so hopefully that will make it a bit easier.
Click to expand...

My experience with speed bleeders is great. BUT, speed bleeders aren't effective when the line is filled with air. I keep speed bleeders on my brake calipers (ABS2 not servo ABS), and they make brake line bleeding easy. However, when I had to replace a rear brake line, the speed bleeder would not move the air out of the line. I had to swap the standard bleed valve back on the caliper in order to get the line filled with brake fluid. Once the line had brake fluid, I could put the speed bleeder back on to finish the bleed and evacuate any remaining air bubbles.
 
Good advice

m_stock10506 said:
My experience with speed bleeders is great. BUT, speed bleeders aren't effective when the line is filled with air. I keep speed bleeders on my brake calipers (ABS2 not servo ABS), and they make brake line bleeding easy. However, when I had to replace a rear brake line, the speed bleeder would not move the air out of the line. I had to swap the standard bleed valve back on the caliper in order to get the line filled with brake fluid. Once the line had brake fluid, I could put the speed bleeder back on to finish the bleed and evacuate any remaining air bubbles.
Click to expand...

Good to know makes sense since the air can compress easier than the spring on the speed bleeders. Thank you!
 
New fluid for sure!

calsgone said:
Changing brakes without discarding the fluid is what i wondered about. That would be a sort of non issue wouldn't it?? The fluid is not reusable in any way, looks like the new lines might even specify a completely different fluid grade. Then only a sealed new container is eligible to put in any part of a brake system, and that has to match the existing fluid exactly. No last years top off, not even close to that, with any open brake fluid container. The better filler valves for sure though, and the new SS lines probably use a newer fluid, so time to clean the calipers while it's apart.

Nothing is so complicated as an "easy to do" fix, Hah !! ---- Cal
Click to expand...

What got me started on all this was a brake fluid flush. Since I have a 13 year old bike bought with very low miles (~6K) and no real service history. I've been going through changing all the fluids & filters as well as what looked to be the original tires. I'm thinking both the old lines and the new SS lines will require brand new in a sealed container DOT 4 brake fluid. Anyone know different?

Anytime I buy a used vehicle I go through the brake system, I like to go fast but I really like to stop even better. Since I am a bit anal, I'll probably do a decent flush with the old lies to clear out as much contamination in the existing system, then change over to the SS lines and flush it again.

My original post was brought about because I've decided that SS brake lines are in order (in for a penny, in for a pound), however it would seem that replacing the lines themselves could be problematic because it would introduce so much air into the system , especially with the servo assisted ABS set up that it might create a monster.

Appreciate all the advice, thanks!

Mark
 
Gs911?

GSAddict said:
Impossible without introducing air.
Actually easier to purge Iabs wheel sides (power) over conventional.
It will be of great benefit to have a GS911 to confirm the system is properly bled (one of the tests it offers)
Just did one today that had to be re-bled in the front control circuit. Lever felt fine but the system still had a very small amount of air in it.
Click to expand...

So what is a "GS911"? Some diagnostic tool?

Mark
 
ridgetopboy said:
Great that just saved me $60 worth of speed bleeders, I'll just put them on the calipers.
Click to expand...


You don't need them on the calipers either. Squeeze handle or lever, pump runs, open bleed screw, fluid flows, close bleeder, refill funnel, repeat until no air is visible coming thru.
 
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