• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

Just Bought 1998 BMW r 1100RS-abs Need Info. as to common problems while In Shop

calsgone

New member
Before I take delivery, the bike gets a new HES module, so the electrics will be exposed. It looks like most motor parts are good at only 35K as a garage queen. This is my chance to get stuff done at a much lower (or free) cost before delivery. The shop reopens in Feb. so I have time to order any other items that might be a good idea. I'm not a mechanic, so it needs to be right, I see the group has many excellent mechanics, so I could sure use the help.

I have heard of replacing stick coils, renewing the wiring, switches/servos, or brakes ?? --- and whatever else might go bad or other problems that members know to address while it's opened up and in the shop. I thought about changing to upgraded parts on a 1998 bike, maybe someone has done this as an upgrade for better riding ?? I would sure like to know up front so I can have a great" first BMW " ride like I hear about. Previous bike was a Triumph 955i, so I do ride, and have for many years.

Thanks Riders, I appreciate the help with this, --- Cal
 
Cal, congrats on the bike and welcome to this forum.

You’ve got a great bike there. First, it’s important to know what you have and what you don’t. You don’t have stick coils, or servo brakes.

Yes, replace the HES. Also, if you still have the original rubber hoses, replace them with a stainless hose kit. At the same time flush the brake fluid with fresh DOT4 fluid. Your 20 year old shocks should be replaced. Look around eBay and Beemer Boneyard for after-market shocks. If you want to cut that cost, and the rear shock still holds oil in the preload reservoir, you could just put a new shock on the front. I would pull the fuel injectors and send them out for a cleaning. Probably cost you about $50 including shipping.

There’s more, and others will join the discussion, but this is a start.
 
Hi Cal,

I rode a '96 R1100RSL from 1997 through 2009, and enjoyed it thoroughly. It's a nice piece of machinery.

How old is the alternator belt? "Garage queen" suggests low mileage, and given the bike's age I'd replace the belt as well. In addition to changing the rubber hoses outside, I'd also replace all the rubber fuel hoses within the fuel tank. If the bike has the stock rubber brake lines, replace them with stainless ones. The single-plug 1100 motors don't have stick coils, instead having a more conventional coil that mounts...somewhere up in there, memory fades. The coil fails sometime, but not nearly so often as the HES wiring.

Enjoy it!
 
Last edited:
Just so you don’t panic, there’s no timing belt but there is an alternator belt and David is right, it should be replaced. And he’s correct on the fuel hoses which should be replaced too.
 
Good direction above so far

Fuel pressure lines both inside tank (SAE 30R10) and outside (SAE 30R9) should be replaced.
I have seen my share of weeping and cracked OE lines on that vintage.
If you have quick disconnects replace the plastic males, they get brittle and can fail catastrophically. The updated ones are metal.

I can help you with the HES sensor assy. PM me
 
Left side cam chain tensioner should be replaced. Old style has a 17 mm hex head, the new style has a 15 mm head. The old, original, part doesn’t maintain pressure on the cam chain after the engine sits for a while, the oil runs down out of the tensioner. The new parts maintain pressure. This prevents wear on the cam chain guides and prevents chain clattering.
 
So Fr So good -- To have a handle On This !!

All much appreciated, a good guide to making resold bikes run like they should, helps keep the bad raps that can happen to new owners to a minimum. If their first BMW runs bad, it ruins the image. The problem is that many new owners regardless of brand, HOPE their bike is up to specs, but can not know what has been done. Like the HEI part, that is an owner fix for sure. I will see how much maintenence has been done before from his local guy. Chain tensioner sounds like a serious deal to repair?? Can the guy tell by listening to the motor??

I made a list of stuff from you folks to have a chat with the mech. - so it comes out right. Probably not some shocks, or tires right away, but the essential motor running gear that gets you stranded, and the lines hopelessly plugged. Requireds at first, then asap, for sure. I found two freelance mechs. locally who will do the work after I get it home, whatever is left over to do. Better than Triumph, no repair guys, except one jerk ex-dealer for 175 miles.

This is a big help, make no mistake about that, maybe I can return the favor some time. I was a gemologist jewelry designer, now design and build wood electric powered boats, for fun. Looking forward to good rides and some BMW group stuff this spring, thanks again. --- Cal
 
All much appreciated, a good guide to making resold bikes run like they should, helps keep the bad raps that can happen to new owners to a minimum. ........ I will see how much maintenance has been done before from his local guy. Chain tensioner sounds like a serious deal to repair?? Can the guy tell by listening to the motor??

............. Looking forward to good rides and some BMW group stuff this spring, thanks again. --- Cal

Chain tensioner is not really a big deal. About $115 or so in parts. Just squeeze an open ended wrench in there, remove the old one and screw the new one in. You can tell if it was done because the hex head is two different sizes, 17mm old, 15mm new.

A good BMW source.
http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/chain.html
 
Thread Weaving on Brakes & Hoses

This brake thing is serious, a hidden problem. I bet more than a few buy and try out at speed then forget to check them deeper. I think I will TODAY check the twin disc brakes on my 2005 Yamaha Majesty 400. Bought it with 23k from a private party, then had to replace the auto tranny. I'm guessing nobody looked at what works.

The fluid reservoirs are easy to open and check for color, an indicator of degrading walls. Is that too simple a solution?? Maybe all brake fluid looks dark, and soft spots wouldn't show anyhow?? This might be a good time to renew the fuel lines in the tank too. At least this is a good time to find out and fix, before the riding season.

It looks like the BMW aircraft motor twins are designed for long mileage, but also for regular replacement of the electrics and fuel stuff on the outside. You would never fly without a preflight check and service schedule, a good idea to have a checklist board for bikes too. With the way higher mileage possible on many BMW's, and that many riders have several bikes -- comes replacement of parts that most bikes wouldn't see before they were worn out. A more European outlook on service over time, rather than replace the bike.
 
The fluid reservoirs are easy to open and check for color, an indicator of degrading walls. Is that too simple a solution?? Maybe all brake fluid looks dark, and soft spots wouldn't show anyhow?? This might be a good time to renew the fuel lines in the tank too. At least this is a good time to find out and fix, before the riding season.

..............

Dark color of brake fluid is much more likely to indicate older fluid that has absorbed moisture. Not impossible that degraded hose internals could darken the fluid color but if the fluid is darkened it is probably just old fluid.

Old rubber brake hoses should be replaced because they are old rubber hoses. They may have degraded on the inside, or they may have developed a soft area all the way through to the outside. Doesn't matter - old rubber hoses get replaced.
 
I have seen my share of rubber line failures.
I won't do a proper road test if the bike still has them.
All it can take is a simple hard brake application for a line to balloon and the lever is against the handlebar.
A while ago I ballooned a rear line in the shop by just stepping on the pedal.
 
I just contacted Spiegler about brake lines

Factory lines are rated for 5-7 years max life, that is the first news I have heard on that score. That hose life will pass the inspection criteria for new bikes, after that it's up to us !! Next shocker is that he replaces BMW lines more often than several other brands combined. Looks like BMW has fairly crappy lines from the factory for a number of years, probably also applies to all hydraulic lines.

Replace older hoses or suffer possible failure, that's the message, looks like Spiegler and a few others have the answer and life time warranty to do that. Before I get it, those things will be done, and by his local shop where they know the bike a bit more.

Maybe that extends to some critical electronics, like the major brain and factory wiring on stuff. Geeze !! At what point does one become cautious of on road problems?? it sounds like the owners will replace stuff at scheduled miles, or be prepared for surprises on the road. Well, that is an aircraft type of preparedness, something to think about. Looks like every couple years, the bike goes to the shop, or gets some other private mechs. to go over it -- just in case.

Justified service after 15 years - ridden or not - Thanks, Cal
 
A short note from Inspection

My Yamaha Majesty has a handlebar cover over the brake lines, better for heat and damage. Where the lines go to the brake calipers, they have black hard tubing completely covering any exposed lines. That might prevent much swelling of lines as well as weather "rot". I think that is a good idea when the other lines are done, at least in areas weather might degrade the system. Can't cost that much when with hose replacement, and protects against rubbing the frame a bit more. Ounce of prevention thing.

Thanks Riders, Cal
 
Thanks Michael, Good ideas all

Wanted to thank you for that first post, very appropriate ideas. I like the upgrades on some replaceable items at Beemer Boneyard idea a lot. That and other club member GS addicts ability to fix the HES, makes it easier to ride safer, longer, at a reasonable cost.

Clear Skies, Long Safe Rides, Cal
 
Back
Top