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Thread: Just Bought 1998 BMW r 1100RS-abs Need Info. as to common problems while In Shop

  1. #1
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    Just Bought 1998 BMW r 1100RS-abs Need Info. as to common problems while In Shop

    Before I take delivery, the bike gets a new HES module, so the electrics will be exposed. It looks like most motor parts are good at only 35K as a garage queen. This is my chance to get stuff done at a much lower (or free) cost before delivery. The shop reopens in Feb. so I have time to order any other items that might be a good idea. I'm not a mechanic, so it needs to be right, I see the group has many excellent mechanics, so I could sure use the help.

    I have heard of replacing stick coils, renewing the wiring, switches/servos, or brakes ?? --- and whatever else might go bad or other problems that members know to address while it's opened up and in the shop. I thought about changing to upgraded parts on a 1998 bike, maybe someone has done this as an upgrade for better riding ?? I would sure like to know up front so I can have a great" first BMW " ride like I hear about. Previous bike was a Triumph 955i, so I do ride, and have for many years.

    Thanks Riders, I appreciate the help with this, --- Cal

  2. #2
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Cal, congrats on the bike and welcome to this forum.

    Youíve got a great bike there. First, itís important to know what you have and what you donít. You donít have stick coils, or servo brakes.

    Yes, replace the HES. Also, if you still have the original rubber hoses, replace them with a stainless hose kit. At the same time flush the brake fluid with fresh DOT4 fluid. Your 20 year old shocks should be replaced. Look around eBay and Beemer Boneyard for after-market shocks. If you want to cut that cost, and the rear shock still holds oil in the preload reservoir, you could just put a new shock on the front. I would pull the fuel injectors and send them out for a cleaning. Probably cost you about $50 including shipping.

    Thereís more, and others will join the discussion, but this is a start.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  3. #3
    rabid reader dbrick's Avatar
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    Hi Cal,

    I rode a '96 R1100RSL from 1997 through 2009, and enjoyed it thoroughly. It's a nice piece of machinery.

    How old is the alternator belt? "Garage queen" suggests low mileage, and given the bike's age I'd replace the belt as well. In addition to changing the rubber hoses outside, I'd also replace all the rubber fuel hoses within the fuel tank. If the bike has the stock rubber brake lines, replace them with stainless ones. The single-plug 1100 motors don't have stick coils, instead having a more conventional coil that mounts...somewhere up in there, memory fades. The coil fails sometime, but not nearly so often as the HES wiring.

    Enjoy it!
    Last edited by dbrick; 01-01-2018 at 02:47 AM.
    David Brick
    Santa Cruz CA
    2007 R1200R

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    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Just so you donít panic, thereís no timing belt but there is an alternator belt and David is right, it should be replaced. And heís correct on the fuel hoses which should be replaced too.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

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    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Good direction above so far

    Fuel pressure lines both inside tank (SAE 30R10) and outside (SAE 30R9) should be replaced.
    I have seen my share of weeping and cracked OE lines on that vintage.
    If you have quick disconnects replace the plastic males, they get brittle and can fail catastrophically. The updated ones are metal.

    I can help you with the HES sensor assy. PM me
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  6. #6
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Left side cam chain tensioner should be replaced. Old style has a 17 mm hex head, the new style has a 15 mm head. The old, original, part doesnít maintain pressure on the cam chain after the engine sits for a while, the oil runs down out of the tensioner. The new parts maintain pressure. This prevents wear on the cam chain guides and prevents chain clattering.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  7. #7
    rabid reader dbrick's Avatar
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    Thanks, Michael. You're right and it's corrected now.
    David Brick
    Santa Cruz CA
    2007 R1200R

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    So Fr So good -- To have a handle On This !!

    All much appreciated, a good guide to making resold bikes run like they should, helps keep the bad raps that can happen to new owners to a minimum. If their first BMW runs bad, it ruins the image. The problem is that many new owners regardless of brand, HOPE their bike is up to specs, but can not know what has been done. Like the HEI part, that is an owner fix for sure. I will see how much maintenence has been done before from his local guy. Chain tensioner sounds like a serious deal to repair?? Can the guy tell by listening to the motor??

    I made a list of stuff from you folks to have a chat with the mech. - so it comes out right. Probably not some shocks, or tires right away, but the essential motor running gear that gets you stranded, and the lines hopelessly plugged. Requireds at first, then asap, for sure. I found two freelance mechs. locally who will do the work after I get it home, whatever is left over to do. Better than Triumph, no repair guys, except one jerk ex-dealer for 175 miles.

    This is a big help, make no mistake about that, maybe I can return the favor some time. I was a gemologist jewelry designer, now design and build wood electric powered boats, for fun. Looking forward to good rides and some BMW group stuff this spring, thanks again. --- Cal

  9. #9
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by calsgone View Post
    All much appreciated, a good guide to making resold bikes run like they should, helps keep the bad raps that can happen to new owners to a minimum. ........ I will see how much maintenance has been done before from his local guy. Chain tensioner sounds like a serious deal to repair?? Can the guy tell by listening to the motor??

    ............. Looking forward to good rides and some BMW group stuff this spring, thanks again. --- Cal
    Chain tensioner is not really a big deal. About $115 or so in parts. Just squeeze an open ended wrench in there, remove the old one and screw the new one in. You can tell if it was done because the hex head is two different sizes, 17mm old, 15mm new.

    A good BMW source.
    http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/chain.html
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  10. #10
    Jammess jammess's Avatar
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    Hi Cal, sent you a private message.
    Jammess

    '93 R1100RSL, '10 FJR1300A
    MOA # 50714

  11. #11
    Registered User K7GLE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_stock10506 View Post
    Also, if you still have the original rubber hoses, replace them with a stainless hose kit.
    "Hoses" = "Brake lines" in this case.
    - Glenn
    2000 R1100RT (current)
    1982 R100RT (traded)
    1970 BSA A65T, 1969 Honda CB350, 1967 Honda CB160 all fondly remembered

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    Thread Weaving on Brakes & Hoses

    This brake thing is serious, a hidden problem. I bet more than a few buy and try out at speed then forget to check them deeper. I think I will TODAY check the twin disc brakes on my 2005 Yamaha Majesty 400. Bought it with 23k from a private party, then had to replace the auto tranny. I'm guessing nobody looked at what works.

    The fluid reservoirs are easy to open and check for color, an indicator of degrading walls. Is that too simple a solution?? Maybe all brake fluid looks dark, and soft spots wouldn't show anyhow?? This might be a good time to renew the fuel lines in the tank too. At least this is a good time to find out and fix, before the riding season.

    It looks like the BMW aircraft motor twins are designed for long mileage, but also for regular replacement of the electrics and fuel stuff on the outside. You would never fly without a preflight check and service schedule, a good idea to have a checklist board for bikes too. With the way higher mileage possible on many BMW's, and that many riders have several bikes -- comes replacement of parts that most bikes wouldn't see before they were worn out. A more European outlook on service over time, rather than replace the bike.

  13. #13
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by calsgone View Post
    This brake thing is serious, a hidden problem.
    Lots on the brake line issue here: https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...-line-failures
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  14. #14
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by calsgone View Post

    The fluid reservoirs are easy to open and check for color, an indicator of degrading walls. Is that too simple a solution?? Maybe all brake fluid looks dark, and soft spots wouldn't show anyhow?? This might be a good time to renew the fuel lines in the tank too. At least this is a good time to find out and fix, before the riding season.

    ..............
    Dark color of brake fluid is much more likely to indicate older fluid that has absorbed moisture. Not impossible that degraded hose internals could darken the fluid color but if the fluid is darkened it is probably just old fluid.

    Old rubber brake hoses should be replaced because they are old rubber hoses. They may have degraded on the inside, or they may have developed a soft area all the way through to the outside. Doesn't matter - old rubber hoses get replaced.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  15. #15
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    I have seen my share of rubber line failures.
    I won't do a proper road test if the bike still has them.
    All it can take is a simple hard brake application for a line to balloon and the lever is against the handlebar.
    A while ago I ballooned a rear line in the shop by just stepping on the pedal.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

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