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Neutral to 1st issue

L

lbnyc

New member
Hi,
After a long time in traffic I find that it was difficult to go from Neutral to 1st. I would usually stay in 1st at a stop but when I try to change from N to 1st, it just stay at Neutral. The bike is really new with around 200 miles so I was wondering if this is something that is due to heavy traffic use and it will go away, or something i really should worry about?
Thanks in advance for any input.

Bike is a 2016 GSA
 
My 15RT is also subject to this on ocassion, found I can shift up to second then back down to first
Or if I not happy just push extra hard down into first. My former 1200gs and 1600 both had same issue, i’ve Heard it the way Bmw cuts the gears in the transmission
 
lbnyc said:
Hi,
After a long time in traffic I find that it was difficult to go from Neutral to 1st. I would usually stay in 1st at a stop but when I try to change from N to 1st, it just stay at Neutral. The bike is really new with around 200 miles so I was wondering if this is something that is due to heavy traffic use and it will go away, or something i really should worry about?
Thanks in advance for any input.

Bike is a 2016 GSA
Click to expand...

Not an uncommon problem in several brands of bikes (BMW, Honda, Yamaha, etc.). Simple solution.

If your bike doesn't want to gently drop into gear, just put some foot pressure on the gear shift lever, and at the same time, start slowly releasing the clutch into the 'friction zone.'

The bike will instantly drop into gear, and with the clutch not fully released, you're not going to pop wheelies or snub the engine. Bring the clutch lever back into the grip, and take off when you're ready. :thumb

I teach this 'trick' to all my students (many of whom are having all manner of shifting issues when in training) and it works for all of them!
 
Humm!!

I used to have this problem on my small Suzuki because a pin was reversed, but was not expected to have this on the BMW.
So I will not worry much about this.
Thanks
 
You are trying to stick square pegs (dogs) into square holes. Obviously, in order to slip into place they must line up. If transmission parts are stationary the odds of lining up are some factor of a few degrees of hole and 360 degrees of a circle.

So, if stationary, to align pegs and holes you must slightly slip the clutch to move parts in the transmission so the pegs are not aligned with blank spots in the gears.

This is perfectly normal. To get a good downshift either the bike must be rolling or the clutch must allow the transmission parts to turn.
 
Last edited:
Always remember this

If it doesn't have a klunky transmission it might not be a real BMW. I must admit I haven't had courage to try a Wethead yet, I'm afraid I would have to sell off a few to make room in the shop and bank account if I got started. Every one (25 and counting) of my BMW's '55 - '18 klunk or argue at times when I'm up shifting, down shifting or trying to find neutral, I'm so used to it I expect it and tend to think somethings wrong when it doesn't klunk or argue.

Its not a Honda and that is why I have my collection.
 
Do this ... press shift lever down simultaneously with pulling in clutch lever.

If you give those shafts time to stop spinning, you'll likely create a tooth-to-tooth situation rather than a tooth-to-gap situation. If they're moving, you'll get the shift.

Will it clunk? Yes. So what?
 
This works for me and is just a technique for doing what others are saying about getting things spinning so they can mesh well. Bike idling in neutral with clutch lever out. Pull in the clutch lever and rev the engine to 2000-2500 RPM, immediately let out the clutch lever, again with a mild rev of the engine and then just as quickly pull in the clutch while putting pressure on the shift lever. The entire proceedure takes no more than two seconds. Normally eliminates grinding and either reduces or eliminates clunking. My Yamaha FJR is a clunker too, and this helps a great deal.
 
I should have clarified in my earlier post, every Bmw i’ve Had ocassionly has these issues
Something about a tractor transmission
Been told by some knowledgeable persons to find a method that works
In my case upshift then down shift works, same for easing into first while letting clutch out, you will find a method that works best
One of the funniest things i’ve Scene at a dealer was a highly experienced motor officer fighting with transmission, his buddies explained he was a new rider and needed rubber gears👍
 
Nice way to fix it

I will try this, but 2 seconds to do it is a lot for NYC traffic - they jump on theit horn after 1 second😀
Thats OK, without the gear I am already a big guy.
 
lbnyc said:
Hi,
After a long time in traffic I find that it was difficult to go from Neutral to 1st. I would usually stay in 1st at a stop but when I try to change from N to 1st, it just stay at Neutral. The bike is really new with around 200 miles so I was wondering if this is something that is due to heavy traffic use and it will go away, or something i really should worry about?
Thanks in advance for any input.

Bike is a 2016 GSA
Click to expand...

The neutral to 1st "clunk" improved on my 2016 RT after a couple thousand miles. I think that what you're feeling is normal.
 
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