Shortening the center stand

I bought another set of Wilbers for my RS, this time they are the -30mm models. I bought another set of stands to shorten as I wanted to keep a set of stock lengths and am in the process of shortening the side and center stand. . My question is to the riders that have shortened their center stand. How much did you remove on the center stand to achieve the proper relationship to allow fairly easy deployment of the stand. I removed 1" from the stand and I am thinking it may not be enough. I used 1' rather than 1 3/16" as the bike was really easy to lift onto the center stand. I have just the bottom pads brazed tacked on, no raising arm yet. Now is the time to make adjustments before the raising arm is attached.

Instead of relying on someone else's opinion I would determine the amount by placing the bike on the centerstand and placing various thicknesses of wood or some other material under each tire. Rolling the bike off the stand on to these various ticknesses and then putting it back on the stand will tell you what works best for you. I can tell you that a small amount goes a long way. Pay attention to how the length change will affect access to the stand with your foot in the up position.

GIARCG said:

Instead of relying on someone else's opinion I would determine the amount by placing the bike on the centerstand and placing various thicknesses of wood or some other material under each tire. Rolling the bike off the stand on to these various ticknesses and then putting it back on the stand will tell you what works best for you. I can tell you that a small amount goes a long way. Pay attention to how the length change will affect access to the stand with your foot in the up position.

Click to expand...

This wood spacer trick is the way I did mine. I would weld rather than braze but that’s just me.
Good luck.
OM

I had the centerstand of an FJ1200 shortened and used the Pythagorean Theorem to calculate the centerstand cut. Me thinks the wood spacer might be easier but be careful. You're cutting the center height, not a single axle height. Use the same thickness board front and rear to get your final value, and remember, you still want the rear tire at least 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the ground. Measure twice, cut once.

Any good weld shop can shorten it. I took my centerstand to an SCCA car guy and had it cut and welded. Worked great!

When I fitted the stand with the 1" missing and raised the bike and placed it on the stand, my rear wheel was off the ground more than I remember it when it was on the original center stand. That distance is making believe the I have to cut a bit more off.
Another thing I noticed is the when the stand is deployed it doesn't rock pass center and the stop tabs have to be trimmed to allow that. This stand is a post 95 model and the numbers did change from my 94 bike. I first thought that the elimination of the zerks was the difference, they did also change some of the attachment hardware, but the old style items work OK.

Hi jagarra, I notice your RSL was built in 05/93. My RSL was built in 06/93 and still has the original M93 transmission. Was wondering if yours is still original. I use the OEM rear shock so don't have your CS issue but would like to extend my side stand just a bit.

Kind of off subject, sorry.

After lowering my F800GS I shortened both the side and center stands.
As there is some interest, either process is easy. First, it’s good to scribe an index line for reassembly. I used a pipe cutter to section each stand. The roll of the pipe cutter provides an extra benefit for rejoining the cut halves. Once the stand(s) are cut, find a bolt or round stock that fits into the cut pieces. With the roll from the pipe cutter, the bolt or round stock should fit snug.
Once your work is checked, a hot weld from a mig welder along the now touching roll points ties it all together.
OM

Since the cross piece on the stand has to fit in a recess in the muffler I was only allowed the option of shortening the stand from the bottom. So I had to take the feet off and then the lifting arm. I first addressed the issue of trimming the stops so the bike sat with the stand past center. Then I double checked the height off the ground with the stand deployed it was about 9/16".
I tacked the attaching arm and removed it to adjust the position about 4 times, till I found the spot to clear the gear shifter properly, even then I had to cut the bracket for the bumper and move it about an 1/8' for the final clearance. Since that section was moved forward I had to make and addition to the bracket to reposition the bumper stop for the stand. Messed around with that for a long time, trimming and checking as the bumper bracket as it was now coming into contact with the ground when the stand was lowered, not allowing the stand to hit it's stop solidly.
Finally got it, going to take to friends and sand blast it before I paint it.

Amazing how what appears to a reasonably easy job gets complicated quickly.
It's all about the details.