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Thread: Carb Rebuild

  1. #16
    I don't know if this is the OP's first time in rebuilding a carb (or bing carb), but there are a number of resources that may be useful when starting out. I liked rebuilding the carbs on my R60/6 so much that I did it several times before finally taking the bike to Re-Psycle BMW. Turns out there was something in the instructions that was misleading (to me) - I was omitting the rubber o-ring from the choke shut-off valve. I did discover that one can get about 12 miles to a set of plugs with the choke always on. The OP will not be dealing with a bing slide-type carb, but rather a CV type carb. Never-the-less, there are several things that one can do incorrectly.

    For humour, and to help get one's courage up (and stock up on B-12 carb cleaner) it is recommended that you read the Carb Chronicles in the link below -
    http://home.insightbb.com/~cdpumphr/...chronicles.htm

    More serious and likely useful info can be found in the following links (not given in any order, just as collected) -
    http://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcyle-...retor-rebuild/
    http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling.../carb_rebuild/
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F4_C5B-SjFo (there are other associated videos shown on the right side of the screen)
    http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/airheads/carb_rebuild.shtml
    http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/bingcv.htm

  2. #17
    Registered User
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    Double thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by wynk View Post
    Yes, carb cleaner, then magnifying glass or loupe to inspect small holes (ex. pilot jets) after air blowing them out. Avoid hard metal scrapers or wire (I avoid the wire jet cleaning tools, maybe copper, but rarely). Yes, replace when in doubt, but make sure you're not introducing jets out of spec. Ultrasonic: disassemble as much as possible, no rubber diaphragms, but thicker gaskets and o-rings OK for short periods (15 mins ). Simple Green OK but can tarnish and stain carb bodies. Many swear by Yamalude carb dip, diluted with water, in their ultrasonics, and many even straight up vinegar. I think the ultrasonic does most of the work, heated solution next, and the solution itself is the least of the concerns.

    I've found my ultrasonic cleaner isn't a miracle tool. I mainly use it to save time (it scrubs while I wrench) and for hard-to-reach passages, i.e. throughout the main carb body, and small jets. As important is an airgun: blow out all passageways after the cleaning. Find a cut-away diagram of your carb and use your fingers to block various inlets/outlets as you go, so the air blast re-routes through every hole and tunnel.

    There's a thread on a vintage Kawisaki forum I follow where some guys tried a variety of ultrasonic methods and bath solutions until finding what worked best for them: https://www.kzrider.com/forum/21-too...eaner?start=20
    I have a 6 liter ultrasonic cleaner have a gallon of citric acid stuff mixes with water for ultrasonic cleaning think I will try the Yamaha stuff also have two 1980 KZ 440's so thanks also for the Kawasaki site

  3. #18
    John D'oh
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    Bing service tip - do one carb at a time :-)

    I use the 40mm alcohol proof independent float kit on my road bike. Installed it myself, followed the instructions and it worked as advertised from the first mile. In fact I just OH'd a set of 32 IF's for a friend who uses them on his BMW airhead dirt bike. He says they are perfectly suited for off road work with the constantly changing attitudes one encounters. Service tip 1- keeping a carburetor clean from the beginning is feeding it clean fuel, clean air and using fuel additives that reduce or fight deposits. "Put a diesel engine up wet and a gas engine up dry". Drain the carbs and run them dry before storage and, drop the float bowls to see if there is any accumulated water in them occasionally when you are riding regularly. Service tip 2- At the moment, for less than the price of one new carburetor ($580.00) you can get both of yours rebuilt to new condition by mail order. And, #3 - the instructions are out there for you to read and follow with only so many steps and just basic tools. Kits and parts are available and individually inexpensive... Damaged 'throttle shaft' - $14.00. It is your turn to learn.
    John D'oh

  4. #19

    Late to the thread

    Good evening all, I was reading through this thread as I was planning on rebuilding the carbs on my '85 R80RT. I clicked on the bing link on the first page of this thread and it is dead. Any other resources where to get rebuild kits for bing carburetors? Much appreciated.

    I found the correct site! Keeping my fingers crossed for a first carburetor rebuild.

  5. #20
    '13 690 Duke, '13 Daytona 675R, 2020 R1250R, '19 Ninja 400 (track bike), '21 Duke 890R, '22 Street Triple RS (gone but not forgotten: '61 Clubman's Gold Star, '76 R75/6, '84 R100, '76 R90S)

  6. #21
    #4869 Earned Lifetime mem DennisDarrow's Avatar
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    For me, when storing the bike, letting it sit, for a week or more, I take off the bottom of the carb. Doesnt hurt anything and HELPS THE FLOATS DRY OUT. i KEEP the old floats and order new ones. The old floats sit on a shelf and in a few months the new floats have absorbed enough fuel to change the level of fuel in the can. So, I put in the old, change nothing, just put them back in and whah freaking lah, no fuel level change in the can and it runs right........Just me and it works for me.........

    When YOU are in N.W. Georgia, find your way on Hwy 136 outside of Calhoun, to my mountain top. Camp or RV awhile up on top of the hill and find the peace that I do..........God bless

  7. #22
    Ran Bush
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    > but you can buy your Bing parts from BMW at a lower cost.

    When I bought parts for a carb rebuild in February this year, I found that buying the parts from BMW was $32 cheaper than buying them from Bing. Part numbers attached for those that don't want to look them up.

    But I forgot to buy float bowl jets. 8P
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Ran Bush in NorCal

  8. #23
    If you do happen to forget to grind the threads off before removing the screws securing the throttle plate to the axle, you will likely ruin the axle as was mentioned previously. It is necessary to remove these screws to remove the axle and replace the o-rings. I know that Re-Psycle has a box of throttle axles available at a big discount should you need another (or just want to count the first try as a practice effort!).

  9. #24
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
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    Rebuild is such a big word!

    Besides general cleaning, all you're doing is replacing some o-rings.

    Many people fail to follow the Bing recommendation of proactively replacing the diaphragms yearly. They're expensive, but are the most critical components.

    Secondly, few also actually replace the needles ... despite the fact that air/fuel rushing past them wears them. Their shape is important.

    Thirdly, and I'm guilty of this, replacing the throttle shaft o-rings is very difficult and I skipped doing this a lot. Had a friend who built a jig to help with this, but can't remember those details.

    Yeah you need the floats correct, but there is leeway. Did you know you can starve your carbs of fuel with a tankbag essentially sealing the air breathing capability of your gas cap?
    Kent Christensen
    21482
    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S

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